Taking the CNC Plunge

[TomS]

'

I don't think you want a connection between the load and terminal 4 in this case. That would be feeding 240V to the 5 volt, I suspect that would let the magic smoke out of several components.

The PDF shows a power source of 3 to 32 VDC, driving both the relay and the load.

That's what I thought. There's got to be something with how I've got it wired. I've got 5vdc on the control side and it powers up the LED indicator light. There's 240vac into the relay on the AC side but nothing coming out.

'

I don't think you want a connection between the load and terminal 4 in this case. That would be feeding 240V to the 5 volt, I suspect that would let the magic smoke out of several components.

The PDF shows a power source of 3 to 32 VDC, driving both the relay and the load.

That's wh

'

I don't think you want a connection between the load and terminal 4 in this case. That would be feeding 240V to the 5 volt, I suspect that would let the magic smoke out of several components.

The PDF shows a power source of 3 to 32 VDC, driving both the relay and the load.

That's what I thought. I'm not sure that the diagram is for the relays I've got. There's got to be a way to wire it so it will work.

Tom S

 

[TomS]

What does your Z-axis profile look like? It kind of sounds like the accel is set a bit high. What is your step resolution set to? They seem to work better at 1/4 step or higher.

I'll gather some info on the Z axis and post it. My gut is telling me it's a configuration issue but I need to read through the Mach 3 instruction manual again.

Thanks,

Tom S

 

[TomS]

I'll gather some info on the Z axis and post it. My gut is telling me it's a configuration issue but I need to read through the Mach 3 instruction manual again.

Thanks,

Tom S

Z axis settings -

Steps per - 16297.08212

Velocity - 49.998

Acceleration - 15

Velocity and acceleration are the same for all three axis. Steps per for X and y are about 5080 +/-.

Like I said in my previous post I need to do some reading so I can understand the consequences of changing settings. It would seem logical to me that the Z axis acceleration should be lower than the X and Y because of the difference in weight. Am I on track with this logic or off base?

Tom S

 

[JimDawson]

I would say you are correct. I would cut the accel by half and see what happens, maybe cut the speed to 25 also.

 

[TomS]

I would say you are correct. I would cut the accel by half and see what happens, maybe cut the speed to 25 also.

I'll give it a shot and report back.

Tom S

 

[jbolt]

On the SSR, you have it wired correctly. I tested all my SSR's using a 110v lamp and breaking the load through the SSR. I would try this to verify the SSR is working. It may be that the SSR is not responding to switching one side of the 220v circuit.

Jay

 

[jbolt]

If you cannot get the SSR to work correctly with the 220v power supply's, I would suggest using the contactors that came with the mill. You have three of them and a 24vac transformer for the contactor coils.

I use the contactors to power up the all the electrical in the machine with the original on / off buttons. Up until I switched to the VFD I was switching the spindle on/off with Mach 3 using an SSR to activate one of the contactors.

Jay

 

[jbolt]

We have the same Z motor and driver. What are your dip switch settings on the Z driver?

My motor settings in Mach3 are: Steps = 16253.xxxx, Velocity = 49.998, Acceleration = 10, step pulse = 5, dir pulse = 5

My gut feeling is you may have a wiring issue.

My dip switch settings.

 

[TomS]

If you cannot get the SSR to work correctly with the 220v power supply's, I would suggest using the contactors that came with the mill. You have three of them and a 24vac transformer for the contactor coils.

I use the contactors to power up the all the electrical in the machine with the original on / off buttons. Up until I switched to the VFD I was switching the spindle on/off with Mach 3 using an SSR to activate one of the contactors.

Jay

I could use the contactors and that would solve the problem. But it bugs the hell out of me that it doesn't work and I don't know why.

Tom S

 

[TomS]

On the SSR, you have it wired correctly. I tested all my SSR's using a 110v lamp and breaking the load through the SSR. I would try this to verify the SSR is working. It may be that the SSR is not responding to switching one side of the 220v circuit.

Jay

I'll give this a try and see what happens. Thanks for the idea.

Tom S