South Bend 9A restoration happening w/pics!!

Here is the proceedure in a picture:

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When you set your taper, be sure that the range of the taper slide is greater than the taper you want to produce.

Many thanks to you and Choiliefan. My next step is to find out if my chuck is running true. The spindle bearing tightening will also change trueness of the chuck. Still have to figure out about shimming the headstock so I can tighten the two allen heads down without seizing up the spindle. Basically the bolts are just laying in the threads and not tightened. If I lightly snug the bolts the spindle stops turning and belts slip. Remember I had to replace the spindle.

Do they make SB headstock shim kits? I've never noticed anything like that on eBad. I do have a lot of shim stock in two different thicknesses and could cut my own I guess.
 
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Still have to figure out about shimming the headstock so I can tighten the two allen heads down without seizing up the spindle. Basically the bolts are just laying in the threads and not tightened. If I lightly snug the bolts the spindle stops turning and belts slip. Remember I had to replace the spindle.

Do they make SB headstock shim kits? I've never noticed anything like that on eBad. I do have a lot of shim stock in two different thicknesses and could cut my own I guess.

I don't know if anyone make shim kits, but there are supposed to be shims in the slots in the headstock. Weren't there shims in there when you tore it apart?
 
I don't know if anyone make shim kits, but there are supposed to be shims in the slots in the headstock. Weren't there shims in there when you tore it apart?
Yes and they are still there but were for the "old" spindle not the new/old one that's in there now. Need more shims so I can tighten the bolts without freezing up the spindle.
 
Here's how I took up the shaft slop of the traverse shaft. Used ship stock and left about 1/8" gap so oil can get into the shaft area. Will there "EVER" be an end to all the problems with my lathe and the glut of money being spent????? A re-ajustment of gears and the addition of 80w-90 gear lube shure has made a big difference in the quiet running of the lathe. When my 80T idler gear arrives I'm sure I'll be happy with my ex thrashing machine! LoL
 

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If you want a dead quiet lathe you can add a handwheel to the leadscrew (tailstock end) and disconnect the reversing gears. You will probably need to machine a bit off the leadscrew holder. As I said b4 you could also add a variable speed reversible dc motor to the leadscrew.
 
Very impressive restoration LX Kid well done, I will be rereading your posts as I get stuck into restoring mt Hercus ARL.
 
There just seems to be a vendetta against me by the "Lathe God!" I checked the runout this morning and I have a .013 deflection at the chuck. I snuged the headstock bolts and it's the same reading so I'm guessing the chuck jaws are going to have to be trued. That is going to be another learning curve for me and a tuff one at that!

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What does "a .013 deflection" mean? What is the runout at the shoulder of the spindle? What is the runout at the back of the chuck plate? What is the runout on the body of the chuck?
 
What does "a .013 deflection" mean? What is the runout at the shoulder of the spindle? What is the runout at the back of the chuck plate? What is the runout on the body of the chuck?

At the moment it means it's not going to cut accurate with any kind of accuracy at all. It just a pretty chip maker at this point! Be nice if I had another chuck to stick on the spindle to get a comparison. I'll do more testing in just a little bit.
 
I snuged the headstock bolts and it's the same reading so I'm guessing the chuck jaws are going to have to be trued. That is going to be another learning curve for me and a tuff one at that!

You're jumping the gun. Get your spindle properly installed/shimmed BEFORE you do any other measurements like this.
 
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