South Bend 9A restoration happening w/pics!!

My tiny 10' x15' shop is a total disaster from doing the restoration of my lathe. Tomorrow is going to be clean up and get organized day! I'll have to make some sort of raised shelf, at the back of the lathe, in order to set down tools, mic's and various tooling items. I found it necessary to install the lathe on the forward edge of my table in order to save floor space so table could be closer to the wall. As you can see in the first pic my counter-shaft is only a couple inches from wall. Being that my taper attachment is non-functional I guess I'll remove it to give me more room at the back of the lathe for tooling.
 

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LX Kid said:
My tiny 10' x15' shop is a total disaster from doing the restoration of my lathe. Tomorrow is going to be clean up and get organized day! I'll have to make some sort of raised shelf, at the back of the lathe, in order to set down tools, mic's and various tooling items. I found it necessary to install the lathe on the forward edge of my table in order to save floor space so table could be closer to the wall. As you can see in the first pic my counter-shaft is only a couple inches from wall. Being that my taper attachment is non-functional I guess I'll remove it to give me more room at the back of the lathe for tooling.
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That's a fine looking lathe right there. If it works half as good as it looks, the effort will be worth it!
 
Re cutting a taper, can't one detach the crossfeed nut at the slotted screw, lock the cross-slide to the taper attachment slide and start cutting?
Seems I once operated a lathe without telescoping crossfeed screw and this was how it was done...?
 
Choiliefan said:
Re cutting a taper, can't one detach the crossfeed nut at the slotted screw, lock the cross-slide to the taper attachment slide and start cutting?
Seems I once operated a lathe without telescoping crossfeed screw and this was how it was done...?
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Well the problem is that there is no "Taper Assy" cross-feed screw in my saddle so it can do nothing. Just to get the taper assembly out of the way I'll just remove it until a time when I think that I need to buy the longer cross-feed screw. But no knowing anything about how to cut a taper you may be correct about what you described. Not getting much suggestions, other than you, on how this thing works or even that I may have all the parts I need and don't even know it. Maybe I just don't get it on how it works!
 
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I really like showing the before and after pics. I guess it makes me feel good to see the difference. "No matter that I had to give a gallons of blood and sold my glass eye!" LoL I'm sure everyone knows Mr. Pete Tublacane from youtube and he used 85-90w gear oil on his gears. I tried it this morning and how sweet it is for running quiet! It would be nice if I could put the tumbler gears in neutral when cutting but then the lead screw won't turn.
 

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Looks really good!
Let the chip making commence!


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You don't need that special crossfeed screw to use your taper attachment.
Detach your crossfeed nut by unscrewing the slotted screw adjacent to your compound.
Set an angle on your taper attachment and lock it to the cross-slide with that shiny nut you've got there.
Your cross-slide is now firmly attached to the taper attachment and as you move the carriage, the cross-slide will move in or out and the now disconnected acme nut stays in place. Try it out.
 
When you turn a taper, the cross feed screw is locked (RE: isn't used). All in-out movement is done by the compound. I'm not sure your taper attachment is missing anything. You set the taper, lock the Tie Rod Screw to the ways, lock the cross-slide to the taper attachment and remove the cross-slide nut holding screw.

I believe that operating the taper is described in HTRAL. I might have missed a step for the 9", because the H10 has a different setup, thus setup proceedure (and I have an H10).
 
Here is the proceedure in a picture:

TAPER.jpg

When you set your taper, be sure that the range of the taper slide is greater than the taper you want to produce.
 
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