This is quite true. However, there isn't much to lose in trying the repair. The repair is mostly cosmetic, so the bulk of the stresses would be absorbed by the intact T-slot.
If the repair fails, the OP could easily fall back on a used compound.
I could make the 9A "donate" it's compound to the 9C, but you can see where that leaves the 9A.
Purchasing a compound in the UK looks pretty much not going to happen. There are some beat up lathes on eBay "parts only", where there is a whole 9C with chucks and change gears for £225. Free collection in person only, long journey through one of the world's harshest lockdown, and nothing else on it I need. There are some parted-out bits, "as seen" in pictures that are too small and not zoom-able, all at bunkum prices, many with a postal charge from the USA. I don't know about customs import duties. Last time I purchased from USA/Canada, it stopped at the port until a fee was paid.
Here is a sample..
Note that £107.61 is
$149.57 ! It becomes £170.46 when you add in the postage.
Then convert to dollars ->
$236.93 (What?)
I am not inclined to play on these terms.
Here is a UK eBay link ->
SB9C 42" for restoration
If rigidity and strength is is an issue with these, then a variation of the "New T-Nut lip held on with screws" route might be to machine away
both the T-nut top ledges, and fix in thicker strong steel replacements, each held in with four high tensile countersunk screws, possibly made somewhat permanent with Loctite 638.
Right now, as I progress on this learning curve, I begin to feel I have less and less to lose. $40 for a compound body replacement sounds impossible when just a used compound nut by itself is like this -->
At today's exchange rate, that comes to
$75.20 !! What's with the £35.17 (
$48.88) to post a little harmless thing that weighs 32.3g (1.14oz) ?
I already have a worn nut. Why buy another? I would rather play with trying out my own bronze-loaded epoxy version.
Getting back to the weld fix, I think if I get it (slowly) up to something very hot, and keep it hot while welding, then after the weld, take the heat up higher, heat soak and slow cool. It can go in insulation, and take 16 or 20 hours to cool if that seems a good plan. So far, the costs are not high, and the learning is intense!