Show us your restored lathe- before and after!

[bedwards]

1943 Sheldon before and after:





it hadn't been used in years and was covered in leaves dirt dusk and muskrat poop.

be

 

[HSS]

HI well I dont have any pics of my lathe befor I cleaned her up but all this lil lathe did was test the print on cooker knobs its a emco compact 8

Hey, that's ok Bob, I hardly have any pictures of anything I've done. The main reason is I'm afraid how my workmanship will turn out and I don't want to leave any witnesses or evidence. Besides, I don't think to take a camera to the shop with me and if I do think of it I get so busy I forget to take pictures. LOL

 

[HSS]

Now that's a nice restore job, BE. Nice looking machine. How long did you spend restoring and what did you paint it with?

Pat

 

[Amigo]

Patrick, that is one fine job on your SouthBend. When it came to boring the gearbox, indicating the existing location to be line-bored and making sure it was in line/parallel with the other shaft holes was no mean feat. I would like to have seen how you managed to do that and wonder if you were able to use the casting machined flat as reference to do so.
My hat is off to you.

 

[Amigo]

Mr. Edwards, on close examination of your "done" photos is evident you took a lot of pains on detail. The Masking of the "white" metal & accessories looks better than "factory" would have done... better than new. Good job on a good ole Sheldon.

 

[HSS]

Thank you Amigo, but I have good days and bad days. You know how you try to think thru a problem and rack you brain for an easy solution and suddenly about 3 am youwake from a good sleep and the problem is simple. The shaft fits on the headstock end of the GB was fine, but the tailstock end was worn at one shaft. The simple solution was to measure the fits on one end and mirrror them on the other end. Worked out real nice.

Patrick

 

[bedwards]

Thanks guys. I used plain machinery gray enamel from the local Do It Best hardware. They had brush and spray to match. It took a couple months to get it back to that shape. It had no major problems except it was missing the worm in the apron and had a pin sheared. I bought the worm new from Bourn and Koch. They have quite a few Sheldon new parts left.
Here are some more pics of it and my Sheldon Model 0: http://s791.photobucket.com/albums/yy200/wbedwards/Lathe/



be

 

[Cabro32]

Also how do you determine bushing oversize for different diameters?

A simple table for different classes of fit is in the "Starrett book for student machinists" (cheap from Starrett). A more detailed description is in your Machinery's Handbook.

Generally for a Driving Fit:
For parts up to 1/2" you go 0.0005" over or under. So if you have a 0.375" hole that you are boring out to, say 0.400" then you either make the hole 0.0005" under (0.3995") OR the bush that will driven into it 0.4005".

For parts 9/16" to 1" you go 0.001" over or under.
For parts 1-1/16" to 2" you go 0.0015" over or under.
For parts ... and so on.

If you are pressing in oil impregnated (aka Oilite) bronze bushings be aware that the numbers will be different and you want to press it in in one go. The porous Oilite bushing will "crush" somewhat (and not spring back) and oil will be forced out of it (it will "sweat".) The sweating is OK but you don't want to make the bushing too large of the hole too small because even though it presses in OK you may force too much of the oil out and it will not be as effective.

Remember to deburr the hole before pressing in a bushing. Even better to give the hole a slight chamfer when it is still in the boring setup and/or chamfer the bushing.

Most bushings should be reamed or bored to size after it has been pressed in to the hole. It is worth making the effort to leave the assembly on whatever machine you line bored it on, press the bushings in, then line bore the bushings while it is all still in place. Doing it this way helps insure that the final bushing bores are all in line.

I usually use threaded rod and discs or sockets or whatever to "pull" the bushings into a hole.

-DU-
-DU-

Thanks David for the much needed info.
Joe