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Rhodes Shaper Rebuild
- Thread starter tertiaryjim
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2014
- Messages
- 634
Nels, Kevin
Thank you!
With all the scraping to be done it's going to be slow but I'll add updates and try to include information that might help others doing similar work.
Thank you!
With all the scraping to be done it's going to be slow but I'll add updates and try to include information that might help others doing similar work.
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2011
- Messages
- 2
Wow, This is a great thread... I recently acquired a slotting head for my early Rhodes Shaper, this thread will definitely help with getting the head tuned up... Thanks for such a detailed report.
Ray
Ray
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2014
- Messages
- 634
An Apology
Sorry to have let this project go for so long.
Was trying a new medication which the Dr. insisted I stay on for a long duration to " Give it a chance ".
Med didn't work for me and I've been physically unable to continue working on the shaper.
Hope to be back at it in the next few weeks and will report on my progress.
Was working on the 60deg straight edge and have completed the rough-in scraping.
Need the 60deg straight edge to true up my little mill drill and the cross-slide on the lathe.
Will next have to do the fine scraping to give it smooth flat faces.
Am hoping it can be used to true up the the 50deg dovetail on the shaper but clearance is tight.
Really don't want to have to machine and scrape a 50deg straightedge or pay the cost of materials.
Also had completed the rough-in scraping of several faces of the shaper.
Will later work to get about 50% to 60% contact on those surfaces.
The factory scraped both sides of the mating-sliding faces to hold oil and the best information I've found says that 50% to 60% contact would work best.
All my checks show that the cast components warped after the factory scraped them in or, they didn't do a good job in the first place.
Spent some time studying how the sliding surfaces interacted and were gibed.
Seems to me that they did some things the hard way.
Also tried some variations of scrapers, all home made, to find the best designs for scraping various surfaces.
Much more work and testing needs to be done on that so it will be awhile before I post it.
Will post pictures and explanations when I can get back on the project.
Sorry to have let this project go for so long.
Was trying a new medication which the Dr. insisted I stay on for a long duration to " Give it a chance ".
Med didn't work for me and I've been physically unable to continue working on the shaper.
Hope to be back at it in the next few weeks and will report on my progress.
Was working on the 60deg straight edge and have completed the rough-in scraping.
Need the 60deg straight edge to true up my little mill drill and the cross-slide on the lathe.
Will next have to do the fine scraping to give it smooth flat faces.
Am hoping it can be used to true up the the 50deg dovetail on the shaper but clearance is tight.
Really don't want to have to machine and scrape a 50deg straightedge or pay the cost of materials.
Also had completed the rough-in scraping of several faces of the shaper.
Will later work to get about 50% to 60% contact on those surfaces.
The factory scraped both sides of the mating-sliding faces to hold oil and the best information I've found says that 50% to 60% contact would work best.
All my checks show that the cast components warped after the factory scraped them in or, they didn't do a good job in the first place.
Spent some time studying how the sliding surfaces interacted and were gibed.
Seems to me that they did some things the hard way.
Also tried some variations of scrapers, all home made, to find the best designs for scraping various surfaces.
Much more work and testing needs to be done on that so it will be awhile before I post it.
Will post pictures and explanations when I can get back on the project.
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2014
- Messages
- 634
Its good to be back but don't know what the Dr. will want to try next.
Hope it doesn't knock me on my arse.
The longest 50deg dovetail needs a strait edge about 17" long.
I hope to do it with the back side of the 60deg straight edge, due to clearance problems, and maintain the flat and angle of the current face.
Then just scape the shorter mating surface to match. Got to keep it all square to the travel as well.
Will probably have to make a 50deg dovetail about 12" long to complete the project.
The little mill-drill I have has crappy, loose dovetails and gibb's which is why I started the 26" long 60deg straight edge.
Tightened the Mill-drill gibbs as much as possible and was careful while machining the straight edge but had to scape a lot of cast iron to get it close.
The mill-drill is loose and the dovetails n gib angles don't match. Proudly made in China.
I really need to correct the mill-drill to make machining a 50deg dovetail easy and will have to make or modify clamps to hold the cast iron for machining.
So, to make a 50deg dovetail I really need to finish my long 60deg straight edge and use it to scrape the mill in and then finish the new gibbs, build clamps to hold the cast iron at 50deg for machining, then
just scape everything I can reach or find and that will put me back on track.
Was bummed to find they had used 50deg on the shaper. Oh-Well It's a learning experience. Far better than sitting on my back-side.
Hope it doesn't knock me on my arse.
The longest 50deg dovetail needs a strait edge about 17" long.
I hope to do it with the back side of the 60deg straight edge, due to clearance problems, and maintain the flat and angle of the current face.
Then just scape the shorter mating surface to match. Got to keep it all square to the travel as well.
Will probably have to make a 50deg dovetail about 12" long to complete the project.
The little mill-drill I have has crappy, loose dovetails and gibb's which is why I started the 26" long 60deg straight edge.
Tightened the Mill-drill gibbs as much as possible and was careful while machining the straight edge but had to scape a lot of cast iron to get it close.
The mill-drill is loose and the dovetails n gib angles don't match. Proudly made in China.
I really need to correct the mill-drill to make machining a 50deg dovetail easy and will have to make or modify clamps to hold the cast iron for machining.
So, to make a 50deg dovetail I really need to finish my long 60deg straight edge and use it to scrape the mill in and then finish the new gibbs, build clamps to hold the cast iron at 50deg for machining, then
just scape everything I can reach or find and that will put me back on track.
Was bummed to find they had used 50deg on the shaper. Oh-Well It's a learning experience. Far better than sitting on my back-side.
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2014
- Messages
- 634
Karl
Sorry to take so long to reply.
I don't have any information on the vertical slotter and wander if you have a regular shaper with the vertical slotting attachment installed.
A picture would be great!
I did find a lot of information on the 8" shaper with the vertical attachment ....
Metal shaper column 46
Kay fishers metal shaper columns
Metal shaper literature
There might be another but gotta find it.
A lot can be found with a search.
Sorry to take so long to reply.
I don't have any information on the vertical slotter and wander if you have a regular shaper with the vertical slotting attachment installed.
A picture would be great!
I did find a lot of information on the 8" shaper with the vertical attachment ....
Metal shaper column 46
Kay fishers metal shaper columns
Metal shaper literature
There might be another but gotta find it.
A lot can be found with a search.