Precision Matthews PM-1030V-wQCTP- ( and w/2axDRO??? )

[wachuko]

Here you go

As for tools?

ALL. OF. THEM.

YES DRO! ALWAYS THE DRO!!!!!!!!!!!! It came pre-installed which was cool - faster than installing the one on Milly.

The machine is only the beginning....

But, you'll want a Machinist's level so you can tell how bad the floor is, and finally give up trying to level the lathe after a month of fighting yourself...

Also, I too got the spare backplate and put on an 8" three-jaw that Sweetie got for me (I told her I needed a chuck for my 4" Midi lathe on the wood side, then she showed up with an 8" chuck... it took me three years to get a lathe that would fit it - it's installed in this pic. I had to find a big cookie of steel and make my own adapter for the backplate - was fun and really put Lizzy through her paces (Lizzy is the lathe, not the sweetie)).

Oh, I just added a thread about putting a DRO on the tailstock quill - go look. I've added one of those pictures here for your drooling pleasure.


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Very nice. Thank you for the photos. Exactly what I wanted to see.

As a side comment... part of the reason for getting into this is the great feel of manually working with these machines. I am kind of starting to regret starting to convert my Grizzly G0704 to CNC... Already started and will finish the conversion... and maybe is just now because I need to learn even more to know how to use the software... will see...

 

[MERLIncMan]

Very nice. Thank you for the photos. Exactly what I wanted to see.

As a side comment... part of the reason for getting into this is the great feel of manually working with these machines. I am kind of starting to regret starting to convert my Grizzly G0704 to CNC... Already started and will finish the conversion... and maybe is just now because I need to learn even more to know how to use the software... will see...

Do not regret the CNC - just have both, or add handles to the rear end of your steppers

Software is my bottleneck too - I have FreeCAD (AutoDesk can go "know" themselves), but my work computer has XP on it, and FreeCAD won't run on it, while K40 Whisperer, Repetier, and USB CNC will. I don't have MACH (3 or 4) because I don't think I've got a parallel port.

So, I make do with Inkscape for flat stuff (through a converter to make the Gcode for the router, or K40 Whisperer runs it natively) and Sketchup with a utility to make STL for the 3D printer.

If I spent about as much on software as I have on machines, I could do it easier - then keep paying that much because "Subscription Models"....

All that being said, I wish I had a 6 Axis hybrid Addative/Subtractive machining-manufacturing machine

Glad I could help with the pictures!

 

[Larry$]

CNC is great for making stuff, especially repetitive stuff. It reduces labor content, speeds manufacturing and above all repeats each part over and over with little variation. My business is full of it. Have dedicated CAD guys on fast computers with really expensive software. All machines have access to the server. If CNC is where you want your hobby to go... Go for it.

It's not what I got started into metal working to do. I get a certain level of pleasure from manually manipulating my machines. Learning new skills. I also enjoy fixing stuff, making parts that can't be bought. I find it to be fun, mentally challenging. I'm retired, Money isn't a problem, time is. Enjoy life, it won't last forever.

 

[wachuko]

...But, you'll want a Machinist's level so you can tell how bad the floor is, and finally give up trying to level the lathe after a month of fighting yourself...

...

Something like this?

Starrett 98-6 6" Machinists' Level with Ground and Graduated vials

 

[MERLIncMan]

Something like this?

Starrett 98-6 6" Machinists' Level with Ground and Graduated vials

That would do it.

There are rumors of an easier way to level a lathe using (I think) a square and a plumb bob - but I never looked it up. Apparently it's easier than chasing the bubble on the ways.

 

[starr256]

I have had my PM1030V with DRO for 3 years. After a couple of years of playing with shims to get the lathe bed "flat" (no twist), I spent the the money for a MT4 test bar and added leveling plates to the both ends of the lathe. They are 1/4" steel with a couple of 5/16 cap screws. The original 1/2" hold down bolts are still used the secure the lathe to the bench. Now it is a simple 5 minute effort to verify the "flatness" for the lathe and correct it when out of whack (I get 0.0005" variation across a 10" span).

 

[wachuko]

I have had my PM1030V with DRO for 3 years. After a couple of years of playing with shims to get the lathe bed "flat" (no twist), I spent the the money for a MT4 test bar and added leveling plates to the both ends of the lathe. They are 1/4" steel with a couple of 5/16 cap screws. The original 1/2" hold down bolts are still used the secure the lathe to the bench. Now it is a simple 5 minute effort to verify the "flatness" for the lathe and correct it when out of whack (I get 0.0005" variation across a 10" span).View attachment 374255View attachment 374256

Do you mind sharing which one you went with?

And pardon my ignorance, but how do these plates work if you are still securing the lathe to the base using the stock bolts? Having trouble visualizing your solution to simplifying this process. Can you elaborate a bit more? Thank you!

 

[Christianstark]

Do you mind sharing which one you went with?

And pardon my ignorance, but how do these plates work if you are still securing the lathe to the base using the stock bolts? Having trouble visualizing your solution to simplifying this process. Can you elaborate a bit more? Thank you!

Looks like he is using front and back jack screws to adjust the plate that the lathe through bolts to the base and sits on.

 

[wachuko]

Here you go

As for tools?

ALL. OF. THEM.

YES DRO! ALWAYS THE DRO!!!!!!!!!!!! It came pre-installed which was cool - faster than installing the one on Milly.

The machine is only the beginning....

But, you'll want a Machinist's level so you can tell how bad the floor is, and finally give up trying to level the lathe after a month of fighting yourself...

Also, I too got the spare backplate and put on an 8" three-jaw that Sweetie got for me (I told her I needed a chuck for my 4" Midi lathe on the wood side, then she showed up with an 8" chuck... it took me three years to get a lathe that would fit it - it's installed in this pic. I had to find a big cookie of steel and make my own adapter for the backplate - was fun and really put Lizzy through her paces (Lizzy is the lathe, not the sweetie)).

Oh, I just added a thread about putting a DRO on the tailstock quill - go look. I've added one of those pictures here for your drooling pleasure.


View attachment 373049
View attachment 373050

View attachment 373053

I had a question on your setup... How tall are you? Are the 4x4 with the 2x4 there to make it more comfortable for you do to your height or do they serve vibration absorption, or???

Wood gives out right? it compresses when you tighten everything down. That has to impact level and twist? Right?

You also have the grinder next to the lathe. I was told to keep that away as far as possible. The dust from grinding bits and whatnot, is bad to the lathe's ways. I just replaced the wheels on my grinder, and just cleaning them (had the grinder close to the milling machine at the time)... it got fine dust all over! I plan to have a shop vac next to the grinder to minimize the mess when using it, but was still planning to have it as far as possible from the lathe...

I am making all this questions to better arrange the machines when I get the lathe...

 

[wachuko]

Looks like he is using front and back jack screws to adjust the plate that the lathe through bolts to the base and sits on.

But still means that he has to loosen the through bolts securing the lathe to make the adjustments, right? Or the tension from the bolts is enough for the fine adjustments needed?