But there are cells there, you must have missed them the first time
ATTENTION!
If you don't remember how the original was connected (that's bad) - don't rush, hold off on soldering the new cell!
If they are connected in parallel, a relatively large short circuit current will flow between them - AND IT MAY DAMAGE SOMETHING.
Tip 1. Take a multimeter (voltmeter) and check the polarity with it, measuring the voltage at the points where the original cell was connected.
If the "old" cell, which is still on the board, still shows some voltage, you should "see" it and at the same time it will indicate the polarity of the new cell connection.
Tip 2. Use a multimeter (ohmmeter) to check which end of the left cell (plus and minus) is in contact with the two solder pads of the removed cell - this will also show you the correct connection.
Tip 3. Check the board carefully (magnifying glass), there may be printed cell polarity markings there.
Tip 4. The yellow "cubes" are probably tantalum electrolytic capacitors - they have polarity (the stripe is plus); check which point their "+" ends are in contact with, you can check it with an ohmmeter too. This should also be the "plus" of the cell.
Your PCB looks very similar to mine - but it may be a different arrangement. In my case, the cells were connected in parallel.
If you were to solder wire to a regular 2032, do it very quickly using a good steel/nickel flux (acidic, e.q. ortophosphoric acid), regular rosin may not be suitable - first give small point tin on the cell, then solder wire (all with 60-100W soldering iron, this power allows for very quick soldering). All cells - especially miniature - do not like long heating to high temperatures.
Have you measured the voltage of the old cells 2032?
It's interesting what condition they are in. New ones - without load - may have 3,2 or even 3,3V.
PS: Sorry, I do not know the language well - I do not know if I am writing clearly