POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

I made new screws and handles for these clamps. I used an E clip on the end of the screw. Works much smoother than factory.

Never understood the rationale behind the short, small diameter cross bars on Kant-Twist clamps. It could be argued that they limit the torque you can apply, but my fingers never approved that thinking.

I took the easy way out:

20250106 Kant-Twist Handles rfs.jpeg
 
Never understood the rationale behind the short, small diameter cross bars on Kant-Twist clamps. It could be argued that they limit the torque you can apply, but my fingers never approved that thinking.

I took the easy way out:

View attachment 516862
LOL
I agree with your sentiment. Particularly on the smallest Kant-Twist sizes
I put 10 or 12 of the 2-1/2" (IIRC) length handle grips into the Pass-Around-Box and I never saw any selected by another participant.
They must have tougher fingers than I, or they didn't know what the grips were.
I suspect your picture will serve to enlighten, some.

PS: I have a suggestion for your clamp board. Use two hangers (or a duel hanger) and hang the clamps by the handle.
Why? So you don't have to waist time closing the clamp each time you put it away. After all, do you frequently use a closed clamp? However, if the storage method requires they be closed, then you have to open them to some dimension to grip the workpiece. If you hang them by the handle, you don't have to bother closing them to put them away.
I realize my suggestion may be in conflict with someone's particular flavor of obsession, so YMMV.

PPS: Patch cord racks work pretty well for hanging small clamps.

 
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PS: I have a suggestion for your clamp board. Use two hangers (or a duel hanger) and hang the clamps by the handle.
Why? So you don't have to waist time closing the clamp each time you put it away. After all, do you frequently use a closed clamp? However, if the storage method requires they be closed, then you have to open them to some dimension to grip the workpiece. If you hang them by the handle, you don't have to bother closing them to put them away.
Hadn't thought of hanging them by the handles; while it would save time, it may take more space (plus finding reasonably prices dual 1/4" hangers is difficult: since the cost-cutters figured out that 1/8" hangers work with all hole sizes, the selection isn't as good; and individual hangers would be spaced 3" rather than 2").

PPS: Patch cord racks work pretty well for hanging small clamps.
Higher cost and not as flexible since can't use all the slots, but you now have me thinking outside the box, thanks!!
 
Finished my little V8 toy project a couple weeks back, just in time for Xmas. Been working on this off and on for a few months. Not perfect, but really please with how it turned out. More importantly, learned a ton of different things in the process working through challenges.

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View attachment 20241227_141751.mp4

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I added a lock for my G0602 compound today. I drilled and tapped an M5-.8mm hole next to the center gib adjustment screw. The adjustments have a 4mm pin between the screw and the gib and I duplicated it with a .156" needle salvaged from a Mercury outboard rod bearing. G0602 Compound Lock.JPG
 
Decided to get a new welding helmet. They now come with removable batteries instead of being welded onto the circuit board so I managed to finish the boring jig.
Set it up and ran a test bore.
bj9.jpg
It worked a treat until about 3/4s through whereupon the auger popped out the side.
bj10.jpg
Grrrrr however It may work ok if I go in half way from each end.
Tomorrow will see.
Looking down the bore there is a sharply defined kink where it started to deflect.
I think a gun drill may be the final answer or maybe a "D" bit.
 
Just because one has a long drill, doesn't mean it will drill straight. As you found out, they wander. Both cutting edges need to be equally sharp and symmetrical. Peck drilling helps some. But long deep holes with L/D ratios greater than 50, are well within gun drill territory. How well a gun drill works on wood, beats me. Guess the cutting edge needs to be ultra sharp. If you don't mind a discontinuity in the middle, drill from both ends, that's probably your easiest option.

Got to hand it to you, your setups are ingenious. Is that a wood drill? Not a long ordinary twist drill? Can't tell if there's spacers on it, or just a really long wood bit.
 
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