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- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,408
No booze, but I did finish cutting through that 2” stainless rod! Nice to have it tucked away in the corner instead of laying in the middle of my already cluttered garage 
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POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?
- Thread starter wachuko
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2024
- Messages
- 20
But what is its purpose? What is it for? BTW, is that a set of T-slot cutters on the shelf? I sure wouldn't mind having a set like that in my workshop. I always keep my eye on FB MP in my area (Space Coast area of Florida).
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2016
- Messages
- 13,353
Hit the sack early after pizza , crab pretzels , shrimp rolls and a few beers . Watched the entire 2024 NHRA season on FS1 before falling asleep . Although we had hard rain , the idiots were out with their fireworks which set the dogs off . I'm still stuffed .
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2023
- Messages
- 74
A few projects of the day. Got sick of tripping on them while navigating the shop, resized some old delta drill press columns and mounted them to my big cast iron colchester table. Waiting on bearings to rebuild the heads. Also got the dro mounted on the hardinge hc since I'm still waiting on airline and compression fittings to finish off the auto threader install.
Attachments
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,408
No purpose at present, though I’ve no idea about the future. That’s why I have a broad selection of materials so I can grab something when I need it
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2021
- Messages
- 1,068
So back to this part...
Started with some sawing. Of course the only material I had was WAY too big. Ended us slabbing a chunk of some 2.5" by 3" bar and clearing as much excess as I could.
Then some hogging material off, and profile milling before 3D profiling the part out. Surprisingly it didn't take too horribly long to do the 3D profile. I broke that work up in to three sections. The top being nearly flat was done with .010" steps, followed by .020" and .040".
Well, what's it all for? Guides for a 3" spherical spade bit that tends to drill a triangular hole without them. The blade is CPM3V hardened with a 3D profile milled into it to allow for 'center cutting'. It does work and you can just plunk it down and start drilling. It takes a beast of a drill to rotate it, but that's what the guy wanted...
Next I need to scrounge up a chunk of maple and try it in something harder. I might need to knock the radius of the guides back a bit. But overall it seems to work.
Started with some sawing. Of course the only material I had was WAY too big. Ended us slabbing a chunk of some 2.5" by 3" bar and clearing as much excess as I could.
Then some hogging material off, and profile milling before 3D profiling the part out. Surprisingly it didn't take too horribly long to do the 3D profile. I broke that work up in to three sections. The top being nearly flat was done with .010" steps, followed by .020" and .040".
Well, what's it all for? Guides for a 3" spherical spade bit that tends to drill a triangular hole without them. The blade is CPM3V hardened with a 3D profile milled into it to allow for 'center cutting'. It does work and you can just plunk it down and start drilling. It takes a beast of a drill to rotate it, but that's what the guy wanted...
Next I need to scrounge up a chunk of maple and try it in something harder. I might need to knock the radius of the guides back a bit. But overall it seems to work.
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2023
- Messages
- 74
That thing is a beast, better hold on. Really turned out nice. Great work.
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2012
- Messages
- 4,302
I need to bore a 10mm hole in 2 dozen 25mm dia Tassie oak dowels 400mm long.
I'm certain the bit will wander over that length so I thought some sort of guide would be worth while.
First cut some hot rolled plate 100mm wide and 12mm thick and faced of all the rust and scale.
Then square up the ends with just a tad of stickout.
Then set the plate up on the vertical slide and using a 3mm end mill I milled a slot.
Then used a countersink to convert the slot into a "V" I read this somewhere and thought it may be a good idea. It worked really well.
Just a tad wider and deeper than the "V" on the bed so the plate sat flat.
Next came a bit more skimmed plate of the same material to make the locking plate underneath.
The get the height required for the jig I set the round bar the drill must pass through between centres, I need an 82mm high chunk.
I will weld these parts in situ stiching a bit at a time to minimise distortion and heat transfer to the bed.
I still have to cut the height bracket as thats all I got through today.
I'm certain the bit will wander over that length so I thought some sort of guide would be worth while.
First cut some hot rolled plate 100mm wide and 12mm thick and faced of all the rust and scale.
Then square up the ends with just a tad of stickout.
Then set the plate up on the vertical slide and using a 3mm end mill I milled a slot.
Then used a countersink to convert the slot into a "V" I read this somewhere and thought it may be a good idea. It worked really well.
Just a tad wider and deeper than the "V" on the bed so the plate sat flat.
Next came a bit more skimmed plate of the same material to make the locking plate underneath.
The get the height required for the jig I set the round bar the drill must pass through between centres, I need an 82mm high chunk.
I will weld these parts in situ stiching a bit at a time to minimise distortion and heat transfer to the bed.
I still have to cut the height bracket as thats all I got through today.