POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

Spent the better part of the day working on a power Z lift for the mill. I cut out 2 donuts of steel with a hole saw, chopped off a chunk of pipe and cleaned it up in the lathe. Then laid out the holes for the motor and mill. After that i welded the parts all together. The gear reduction motor is something from aliexpress, I sprayed some black paint on it and it was a bit hot and boiled off so it looks a bit funny but oh well. I have a speed controller to connect to it that allows Up/Down + speed control. I hope that i got the preload on the top nut adjusted so that it moves up and down easily with little backlash.

Well i wouldn't say that the power feed was a total failure but it didn't work well enough to my liking. There were two issues - first the motor spun fast so it had a very nice travel speed up and down however it didn't have enough power at the very top of the travel and didn't lift the head very well. The second issue is that i used a "lovejoy" like flex coupler and threaded the mill side so that it could jam against the other jam nut on the lead screw. Even after using loctite i had issues with the lovejoy unthreading - and it was pulling threads and stripping out so long term it would not hold up.

Neighbor had some linear actuators from a power adjustable bed like these here. I was able to take the lead screw and shorten it, then turn it down to the proper diameter to put a pulley on it. I am driving the hand crank shaft instead of the top nut to eliminate the issue i had with the flex coupler.

Here's a short video:


It moves a bit slower than i really wanted but it works really well with plenty of torque so i'll call it a win. If you look closely you can see a C clamp in the video. I attached a bracket to the plastic gear motor housing and attached a block to the mill. I need to drill and slot the bracket so that i can attach the bracket to the mounting block and eliminate the C clamp.
 
Last year the ac leaked in my 05 Ram 2500 diesel. I found pin holes in the condenser and replaced it and the accumulator. All looked good otherwise but it wouldn’t hold vacuum. I had a shop fill it with nitrogen. They couldn’t find the leak either, so I brought it home and removed all the ac components. This included dash removal to get at the air box housing the evaporator. These trucks are known for blend door failure and I since this was also an issue with my system, I figured it made sense to replace everything. It was only 96* today and it took all day . I ordered a new door kit from Blend Doors USA, OEM heater core, and all the ac components momoney. I disassembled and cleaned the air box. I hope to rec ever this week and to get everything installed and operational next weekend. It’s a big job, but I’m not going without ac. I am concerned that I haven’t found an obvious leak. I’m all ears if you have a suggestion.
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@Gaffer

You probably know what I am about to say, in which case, ignore it.

Replace every O-Ring you can throughout the system with OEM or better and replace the charge-valve cores as they are well known to be a problem for leaking when the rubber seals flatten over time. Also, check the expansion valve.

Use a little silicone grease (not a lot, just enough) to allow the O-Rings to slip in to the seats when re-assembling.

When you charge the system/have it charged, add a little UV dye. If there are any leaks, you will be able to detect them using a UV (Black) light.
 
@Gaffer

You probably know what I am about to say, in which case, ignore it.

Replace every O-Ring you can throughout the system with OEM or better and replace the charge-valve cores as they are well known to be a problem for leaking when the rubber seals flatten over time. Also, check the expansion valve.

Use a little silicone grease (not a lot, just enough) to allow the O-Rings to slip in to the seats when re-assembling.

When you charge the system/have it charged, add a little UV dye. If there are any leaks, you will be able to detect them using a UV (Black) light.
Thank you. Every component in the system, including hoses, fittings will be new and OEM, except the compressor. I chose Denso brand because it has decent reviews. The OEM compressor is no less than 4X than all the other makes.

I was going to use the pag oil on the o-rings for lube. Is silicone grease a better choice? I’m a simple shade-tree mechanic working in the sun! :grin:
 
I finally got the fan off the 10HP motor for the new phase converter. I had a puller on it, tightened with an 1/2” air impact, soaked in every penetrating oil I had and heated it up with a blowtorch it didn’t budge. I let it sit for a week and tightened it every day, nothing. I used the air hammer with everything I could think of to try to make it come out easier. I even drilled out the key way. The aluminum fan on a steel shaft was stuck on too good. I used an oscillating tool to cut a slit in it then jammed a wedge in the slit. It still took 10 minutes with a BFH and brass punch since the air hammer barely moved it and the puller didn’t do anything. Just will need to close up the slit and add a set screw for re-assembly. I have new bearings ordered for it and I am now looking at capacitors and contactors. (I used the grinders to remove mushrooming from someone previously trying to remove the fan, I did not grind the aluminum)IMG_7064.jpegIMG_7065.jpeg
 
Last year the ac leaked in my 05 Ram 2500 diesel. I found pin holes in the condenser and replaced it and the accumulator. All looked good otherwise but it wouldn’t hold vacuum. I had a shop fill it with nitrogen. They couldn’t find the leak either, so I brought it home and removed all the ac components. This included dash removal to get at the air box housing the evaporator. These trucks are known for blend door failure and I since this was also an issue with my system, I figured it made sense to replace everything. It was only 96* today and it took all day . I ordered a new door kit from Blend Doors USA, OEM heater core, and all the ac components momoney. I disassembled and cleaned the air box. I hope to rec ever this week and to get everything installed and operational next weekend. It’s a big job, but I’m not going without ac. I am concerned that I haven’t found an obvious leak. I’m all ears if you have a suggestion.
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At least you still have a dash... the dash in the one my dad had (my brother now has it) completely disintegrated...

EDIT: My brother sent me a photo:

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Neighbor had some linear actuators from a power adjustable bed like these here. I was able to take the lead screw and shorten it, then turn it down to the proper diameter to put a pulley on it. I am driving the hand crank shaft instead of the top nut to eliminate the issue i had with the flex coupler.
I am totally confused by this. The video shows what appears to be a gearhead motor with no lead screw? How are you using the linear actuator? Why would you want a pulley on a linear actuator shaft???
 
I am totally confused by this. The video shows what appears to be a gearhead motor with no lead screw? How are you using the linear actuator? Why would you want a pulley on a linear actuator shaft???

The linear actuator is just a worm gear motor that spins about 50 RPM with a lead screw for an output shaft. I cut off half of the lead screw, turned it down and put the pulley on it. The main reason for doing this was b/c the motor was free, heavier duty than many of the motors i found online and also it is only 2 wire. Many of the wiper motors have features i don't need and 5 - 12 pins for the wiring which makes it more complicated.

TLDR; Modified the actuator instead of purchasing a wiper motor.
 
@ivel03 - Thank you. I understand. You and I are using the term lead screw differently. I like your setup and I may duplicate that.
 
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