- Joined
- Feb 25, 2021
- Messages
- 3,271
I know that feeling! I'm sure you're glad to get going on that again.
-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?
- Thread starter wachuko
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2015
- Messages
- 10,045
I had to fix a caliper. I lost the screw for the retaining clip down by the depth rod. I don't have the size screw it needs, probably metric, and smaller than a 2-56..
So I went to open the caps up, they were not hardened like the caliper itself. But when I went to countersink it, my weldon (small) countersink broke the point off. I went to flip it around and the tip in the chuck was also broken... I have no idea why.. One failed in use, and one failed without use.
Glad I wasn't using my Bendix countersinks.
That pic is a pic of the next size up weldon .. and the tip from yesterday. I don't know what I did with the shank, I guess I threw it away .. I normally save HSS to regriding, but not this time..
So I went to open the caps up, they were not hardened like the caliper itself. But when I went to countersink it, my weldon (small) countersink broke the point off. I went to flip it around and the tip in the chuck was also broken... I have no idea why.. One failed in use, and one failed without use.
Glad I wasn't using my Bendix countersinks.
That pic is a pic of the next size up weldon .. and the tip from yesterday. I don't know what I did with the shank, I guess I threw it away .. I normally save HSS to regriding, but not this time..
Attachments
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 3,704
@woodchucker
That's weird. Are (were) the tips brazed onto the shank?
That's weird. Are (were) the tips brazed onto the shank?
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2015
- Messages
- 10,045
Last edited:
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2014
- Messages
- 3,560
Wow, that is highly unusual. I’ve been using the same set of MA Ford single flute countersinks since the mid 1980s. I’ve had to sharpen them a couple times but never broken or even chipped one. The first 20 years they used daily primarily on 316 stainless
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2015
- Messages
- 10,045
Yea I've used the larger ones much more frequently, and these occasionally. Was surprised, and confused.
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2015
- Messages
- 4,298
Finally got around to wiring stock switch on the Walker-Turner drill press… Used existing cord for the switch and bought a 10’ extension cord for the power…
View attachment IMG_3737.mov
View attachment IMG_3737.mov
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2019
- Messages
- 1,396
Air Compressor Aftercooler Installation (@Firstram )
I gave up counting the man-hours and costs associated with this project, but I'm happy with the outcome. My trusty Fluke measured 173F out of the head and 100F entering the tank. There was no visible water when I opened the drain valve. The unloader valve used to take a few seconds and now takes about 20 seconds, which is no problem. I had a few HUA moments that slowed things down, but I didn't have to scrap and redo anything - shocking.
I welded in 3/4" square tubing to the existing frame for the aftercooler. If you read my previous posts on this project, I destroyed the threads on the flange and would have to machine a new one. I bought some 6061 for it. A buddy of mine came through with the copper tubing, and the remaining supplies came from Amazon, McMaster, and Lowes.
Cut to size.
I squared the stock using Joe Pie's method. It was my first time and it worked great.
I used one of the fly cutters and the cobalt drill set I got from @mmcmdl, and they performed excellently.
Next, I used the slitting saw, also from Dave, to cut down the original flange to make it easier to transfer the holes onto the new one.
I used transfer screws in the head to accurately mark for drilling the mounting screw holes. It worked great. Then I used the flange I cut down to transfer the location of the air hole
. After drilling, I broke out the boring head and bored the air hole 
grin to fit the new O ring. I used my new pin gages to locate the existing hole, zeroed the DRO, and went from there. As opposed to taking and working toward specific measurements, I eyeballed and did a test fit to get the appropriate pocket for the O ring. It worked fine.
Next, I flipped the part and drilled and tapped it 3/4" NPT. I didn't have a tap wrench and had to resort to an end wrench
. I didn't have a tap follower, so I compromised and will be making one in the near future, but not until I get my lathe reassembled. I assume I didn't get the tap perfectly straight, as I had to use the handle on my floor jack as a lever. I went super slow with lots of cutting oil and chip breaking. I just knew I was going to break something, but I got it. If I were tapping steel, I think I would have broken something. The fitting threaded in just fine and appears to be in proper alignment.
I bought a cheap tubing bender for this project from Vevor. It worked awesome! It handled the 7/8" tubing effortlessly.
I deburred the tubing and the ferrules too. I was surprised the ferrules needed it, but I didn't want any leaks or debris to cause future leaks. I can reach the back of the fan shroud when I have to service the belt, but that's rare. It wouldn't be hard to change, but it would have been better to come out of the flange horizontally and then drop down into the condenser, making it easier to enter the space.
My flange is bulky, but it's solid, and I couldn't justify spending additional time machining it down, and holding it to do it wasn't obvious. I sticking with the idea it is a heat sink!
I considered making a ground support for the water separator, but the pipes, fittings and geometry are very rigid, and I don't think it necessary. I'll keep an eye on it.
I changed the oil and Viola!
I gave up counting the man-hours and costs associated with this project, but I'm happy with the outcome. My trusty Fluke measured 173F out of the head and 100F entering the tank. There was no visible water when I opened the drain valve. The unloader valve used to take a few seconds and now takes about 20 seconds, which is no problem. I had a few HUA moments that slowed things down, but I didn't have to scrap and redo anything - shocking.
I welded in 3/4" square tubing to the existing frame for the aftercooler. If you read my previous posts on this project, I destroyed the threads on the flange and would have to machine a new one. I bought some 6061 for it. A buddy of mine came through with the copper tubing, and the remaining supplies came from Amazon, McMaster, and Lowes.
Cut to size.
I squared the stock using Joe Pie's method. It was my first time and it worked great.
I used one of the fly cutters and the cobalt drill set I got from @mmcmdl, and they performed excellently.
Next, I used the slitting saw, also from Dave, to cut down the original flange to make it easier to transfer the holes onto the new one.
I used transfer screws in the head to accurately mark for drilling the mounting screw holes. It worked great. Then I used the flange I cut down to transfer the location of the air hole
. After drilling, I broke out the boring head and bored the air hole grin to fit the new O ring. I used my new pin gages to locate the existing hole, zeroed the DRO, and went from there. As opposed to taking and working toward specific measurements, I eyeballed and did a test fit to get the appropriate pocket for the O ring. It worked fine.Next, I flipped the part and drilled and tapped it 3/4" NPT. I didn't have a tap wrench and had to resort to an end wrench
. I didn't have a tap follower, so I compromised and will be making one in the near future, but not until I get my lathe reassembled. I assume I didn't get the tap perfectly straight, as I had to use the handle on my floor jack as a lever. I went super slow with lots of cutting oil and chip breaking. I just knew I was going to break something, but I got it. If I were tapping steel, I think I would have broken something. The fitting threaded in just fine and appears to be in proper alignment.I bought a cheap tubing bender for this project from Vevor. It worked awesome! It handled the 7/8" tubing effortlessly.
I deburred the tubing and the ferrules too. I was surprised the ferrules needed it, but I didn't want any leaks or debris to cause future leaks. I can reach the back of the fan shroud when I have to service the belt, but that's rare. It wouldn't be hard to change, but it would have been better to come out of the flange horizontally and then drop down into the condenser, making it easier to enter the space.
My flange is bulky, but it's solid, and I couldn't justify spending additional time machining it down, and holding it to do it wasn't obvious. I sticking with the idea it is a heat sink!
I considered making a ground support for the water separator, but the pipes, fittings and geometry are very rigid, and I don't think it necessary. I'll keep an eye on it.
I changed the oil and Viola!
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2021
- Messages
- 1,066
Still slowly picking away on steel. This is the most fiddly part of the project, so things are slow going. Trying to square these pieces up in three planes and keeping the holes square etc. is a slow going. TIG tacked them in place, and will follow up with some good hot MIG passes to finish it out. Need to add the last end plates. This was done on both sides of the beams (but no second picture).
Did some testing on samples before settling on the settings for the MIG, so am comfortable they'll be good. Even then, none of the welds are actually holding the weight. All the load bearing steel is virgin steel in the beams, so even if the welds were to fail (very unlikely) in this design the welds aren't carrying 100% of the load anywhere.
Part came out too long tho. Cad says the end of the plate should be at 266.105", and it's at 266.125"... lol
Actually, I can strech the tape that last .020".
Lastly:
Dear Santa,
I would really like new drill chucks for the mill, lathe, and drill press. Also, bring a new drill press to go with the new chuck. Please. Pretty please.
Thank you Santa!
Did some testing on samples before settling on the settings for the MIG, so am comfortable they'll be good. Even then, none of the welds are actually holding the weight. All the load bearing steel is virgin steel in the beams, so even if the welds were to fail (very unlikely) in this design the welds aren't carrying 100% of the load anywhere.
Part came out too long tho. Cad says the end of the plate should be at 266.105", and it's at 266.125"... lol
Actually, I can strech the tape that last .020".
Lastly:
Dear Santa,
I would really like new drill chucks for the mill, lathe, and drill press. Also, bring a new drill press to go with the new chuck. Please. Pretty please.
Thank you Santa!
Similar threads
