- Joined
- Mar 22, 2022
- Messages
- 400
Sometimes it is difficult to keep buba at bay in my "real self" while my "ideal self" would show more patienceIt's very strange that prying the head casting caused the pin to get deeper into the hole.
It indicates, to me, that the pin had been messed with before or improperly installed in the first place.
If you have pried the headstock into the pictured condition while other pins or fasteners are still engaged . . . (me) Check please.
It's unfortunate that factory didn't drill and ream the hole completely through.
Prying up the headstock would not have been my choice, but at the point . . .
I suggest tapping the headstock back down and asking "what do I need to drill and tap the pin?".
If not, use 4 wedges (1 at each corner) to lift the head uniformly.
The hacksaw approach is rational enough, if you can minimize damage to the (normally) faying surfaces. Once the headstock is out of the way, drilling and tapping the pin remnant (in the bed) should be pretty simple.
All of your cosmetic work has seemed so thorough and precise that the decision to pry up the headstock seems incongruent and unfortunate.
After all, pretty paint is nice but it won't create a more precise machine tool.
Prying up the headstock was done gently with a couple of plastic wedges, a series of aluminum rods on the V to keep somewhat level and a pry bar.
Four bolts and the tapered pin are all there is holding it in place.
The 3/16" of lift came with minimal pressure and you could feel a solid stop at that point so just let it be. Remove the wedges, a tap with the plastic hammer, it drops right back into place.
Sawing the pin should leave me with about 3/32" of a stub sticking out of the bed. Twenty minutes and beer then I can move onto the next challenge.