POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

A couple of alternatives, for removing that pin, come to mind.
One option is, assuming the bottom of the pin does not protrude from the bottom of the hole, put a piece of steel rod or cut off screw (largest diameter you can fit) up from the bottom, long enough to protrude from the casting while in contact with the pin. Use grease to hold the piece in place. Use a flat washer to surround the pin hole from the top. Use a C-clamp between the lower piece and flat washer to pop the pin loose. You may have to grind the fixed end of clamp to get it into the tight quarters.

Another option: The pin is probably not hard, so drilling through and tapping should be easy enough (except for the proximity of the adjacent wall). Make a drill guide from a piece of bar stock and fix it securely, centered over the pin, using at least one of those adjacent holes. Make-up a small slide hammer and remove the pin. Drilling through might be enough trauma on the pin to spin it loose. A 90° drill or attachment might get you over the pin without having to buy extension drills.
 
DeadGuyAle said:
Thanks for the advice gentlemen!
The hole does go through but there is no straight line access to get a punch in from below even if I flip over. The bed casting slopes upwards under the flat way so only about a 1/2" of space to work in.

Never turned a part on the lathe after purchasing so no idea of the current alignment.
Have gone through all the other components and headstock is all that remains.
Based on current track record it will need bushings, unclogging of oil passages and gunk removal.
Honestly realignment of the head intimates me far less than getting the taper pin out.
Click to expand...
Can you use a C-clamp to press it out? Put a socket on the top side that bridges the pin. Also put a socket on the bottom side with a dowel pin smaller than the tapered pin running through the socket's drive hole. Squeeze away with the clamp?

Bruce


Crappy sketch, hopefully it makes sense
1701872261611.png
 
DeadGuyAle said:
Spent some time contemplating how to remove the tapered pin from the headstock.
These type of challenges tend to bring progress to a crawl as it's all new to me.
Click to expand...
Why do you think it is a tapered pin? If it is a dowel pin just drive it through. On the other hand, maybe you can just pry the head casting off with a very large lever. Another thought, lift the head casting with an engine crane and with a large block of wood pound on the bed. Mind you I am suggesting you only lift the everything only about a quarter of an inch off the floor. I really find it hard to believe it is a tapered pin.
 
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Both of my lathes have pins in similar locations. In both cases they’re taper pins. The taper pins are used to assure proper alignment while still allowing the headstocks to be removed from the bed for servicing.
 
I would just lift the head off. I'm betting it will lift, the pin is just for alignment. protect the ways with wood and use a bar to pry the head up a little at a time front and back.
 
extropic said:
A couple of alternatives, for removing that pin, come to mind.
One option is, assuming the bottom of the pin does not protrude from the bottom of the hole, put a piece of steel rod or cut off screw (largest diameter you can fit) up from the bottom, long enough to protrude from the casting while in contact with the pin. Use grease to hold the piece in place. Use a flat washer to surround the pin hole from the top. Use a C-clamp between the lower piece and flat washer to pop the pin loose. You may have to grind the fixed end of clamp to get it into the tight quarters.

Another option: The pin is probably not hard, so drilling through and tapping should be easy enough (except for the proximity of the adjacent wall). Make a drill guide from a piece of bar stock and fix it securely, centered over the pin, using at least one of those adjacent holes. Make-up a small slide hammer and remove the pin. Drilling through might be enough trauma on the pin to spin it loose. A 90° drill or attachment might get you over the pin without having to buy extension drills.
Click to expand...

BGHansen said:
Can you use a C-clamp to press it out? Put a socket on the top side that bridges the pin. Also put a socket on the bottom side with a dowel pin smaller than the tapered pin running through the socket's drive hole. Squeeze away with the clamp?

Bruce


Crappy sketch, hopefully it makes sense
View attachment 469567
Click to expand...
Took a closer look at the bottom side of the hole again last night and there is no room to angle a straight rod or bolt up into the hole. Barely a half inch of straight line access into that space.IMG_7367.jpeg
The input is apprecated!
 
RandyM said:
Why do you think it is a tapered pin? If it is a dowel pin just drive it through. On the other hand, maybe you can just pry the head casting off with a very large lever. Another thought, lift the head casting with an engine crane and with a large block of wood pound on the bed. Mind you I am suggesting you only lift the everything only about a quarter of an inch off the floor. I really find it hard to believe it is a tapered pin.
Click to expand...

Parts diagram calls it out as a #6 x 1 1/2" taper pin and I discussed with Clausing technical support to verify that it was just a standard taper pin. Have new one on the way for a first hand look.
I was able to lift the headstock about 3/16" but she came to hard stop at that point.

IMG_7370.jpeg
 
Looks like you're either going to continue tryin to force it up from the top, or drill it down to the point where you can remove the headstock. Tapers can get seriously stuck, so it may not be practical to remove without destroying it.

Having the replacement will be helpful if you do have to drill it out, then you'll know what the bottom diameter is to avoid drilling into the casting.

John
 
try a couple of taps with a piece of wood and the bed and head on the side if you can.
I'm betting a hammering (light to medium) will cause the pin to come out with the head .
 
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