POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[DeadGuyAle]

I would just lift the head off. I'm betting it will lift, the pin is just for alignment. protect the ways with wood and use a bar to pry the head up a little at a time front and back.

Little paranoid about applying too much leverage in an attempt to remove.
However I did get some movement without getting too crazy but it's pulling the pin into the casting not the pin out of the hole.
Enough room to get a hacksaw blade on a stick holder in there and cut it off, might be the easiest solution.

 

[woodchucker]

nooooo
that pin is probably mounted from the top down. please try tapping the head using a block of wood from the bottom. You don't want to break the casting, but you want the jarring to pull the pin out of the bed.

if you cut it, there is a good chance you are not getting the old pin out easily.
and drilling will be tough (mild steel but....) it's tapered. You'll need a tapered reamer after. it's much easier to get it to come out on it's own.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

Little paranoid about applying too much leverage in an attempt to remove.
However I did get some movement without getting too crazy but it's pulling the pin into the casting not the pin out of the hole.
Enough room to get a hacksaw blade on a stick holder in there and cut it off, might be the easiest solution.
View attachment 469609

If you have a press that would be the best way to remove it but you would need to take it off...

 

[projectnut]

Are you absolutely certain there aren't any bolts or taper pins inside the headstock casting that are securing it to the bed? There might also be some at the rear of the headstock coming up from under the bed. In some case those coming up from under the bed are socket head cap screws counterbored into the bottom of the bed. They're difficult to find especially if the machine is covered with old cutting oil and swarf.

 

[matthewsx]

Little paranoid about applying too much leverage in an attempt to remove.
However I did get some movement without getting too crazy but it's pulling the pin into the casting not the pin out of the hole.
Enough room to get a hacksaw blade on a stick holder in there and cut it off, might be the easiest solution.
View attachment 469609

You could push it back down and drill sideways into the pin, then install another small pin to hold it into the headstock side. That might allow it to come up when you lift the headstock again.

A little heat might help too.

Just a couple of thoughts, might not work at all....

John

 

[extropic]

It's very strange that prying the head casting caused the pin to get deeper into the hole.
It indicates, to me, that the pin had been messed with before or improperly installed in the first place.
If you have pried the headstock into the pictured condition while other pins or fasteners are still engaged . . . (me) Check please.
It's unfortunate that the factory didn't drill and ream the hole completely through.

Prying up the headstock would not have been my choice, but at this point . . .
I suggest tapping the headstock back down and asking "what do I need to drill and tap the pin?".

If not, use 4 wedges (1 at each corner) to lift the head uniformly.

The hacksaw approach is rational enough, if you can minimize damage to the (normally) faying surfaces. Once the headstock is out of the way, drilling and tapping the pin remnant (in the bed) should be pretty simple.

All of your cosmetic work has seemed so thorough and precise that the decision to pry up the headstock seems incongruent and unfortunate.
After all, pretty paint is nice but it won't create a more precise machine tool.

 

[koenbro]

Continuing to learn about sheet metal bending - and making all the mistakes. Case in point, I wanted to make a 4 inch tall drawer box out of 16 gauge steel. I cut the piece:

Then I bent two sides and the first problem was that 16Ga exceeds the capacity of my brake. So it took a lot of effort.

But then when I wanted to bend the other two sides, I noticed that there is an interference. The break only allows 2 inch high walls before the piece that had already been bent hits the crossmember. So there I was with a partially bent box, tempted to hammer it in for the rest of the way, but then I worried that it’s not gonna look even.

So put it back on the plasma and cut 4 relief slots, 2 inches long. Then it bent easily.

The moral of the story is that from now on all my drawer boxes will only be 2 inches tall, and if I ever have to do 16 gauge, I will have these relief cuts already planned into the design.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Shotgun]

@lordbeezer gifted me a bullet when I went over there to buy some other tools. 50 caliber I believe it was. Tungsten with copper cladding. He said he had sharpened the tip of the tungsten on one to make one of the best punches he ever had.
I took it a step further. I used it to replace the pin in my old Harbor Freight spring-loaded punch. I rarely work on such small pieces, but I'm rather proud of how this turned out. The thin part is .150 diameter, and it is pictured with the pin it replaced. It is sharp enough to use as an actual pin, and hasn't dulled a bit after several uses.

 

[woodchucker]

I didn't feel like woodworking today. I was out early and could not warm my feet up. Made the mistake of wearing sneakers .. damn..
So I figured I might as well do something. That Delta Drum Sander that I bought has been giving me issues. it's been sniping and at times jams up and gouges the wood. So I started looking it over fully a few weeks ago. Well today I set about fixing it.
The previous owner had really screwed the pooch on the table. He had it level across , but not level infeed to outfeed. The pressure rollers were incredibly hard to get under. I blamed the snipe on having too much pressure and then releasing, and the outfeed pressure roller was too light due to the incline .. So I took the whole table apart. First taking the feed off, and seeing some other problems.. Also Delta Fd up by not finishing the rails correctly. The guy mounted the table on top of the rails when they were not supposed to be, they were supposed to lock the hex adjusters. But the rails were not cut wide enough, or deep enough. So I took a file and corrected the notches. I loosened up the adjusters on the base and allowed them to re-home , and now it adjusts easily up and down, and the snipe is now minor, not deep like before.

 

[lordbeezer]

50 caliber armor piercing. On right side before turning jackets off. 30 cal on left. Before and after. They are already sharp.