POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[Just for fun]

Printed the connection panel for my ELS cabnet.

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Managed to get the last gear assembly and bearings out.




Pain in the wass to clean but got it done.

 

[dkemppai]

Printed the connection panel for my ELS cabnet.

View attachment 465919

Wow. That turned out pretty nice. I've CNC milled similar, but never thought about 3d printing one.

Do you have a thread on your ELS build?

 

[francist]

Yeah I also tried hand-cut dovetails for the first time. Terrible, don’t look.

Hey, you tried. Full points for that

 

[Just for fun]

Wow. That turned out pretty nice. I've CNC milled similar, but never thought about 3d printing one.

Do you have a thread on your ELS build?

No, I don't have a thread started yet, but maybe I should.

 

[WobblyHand]

Was looking around for one of these in the house and garage, and it simply vanished. I know I have (more than) one somewhere. What was it?

A valve core remover, like for automotive tires. I looked up some basic dimensions for a Schrader valve and was able to find dimensions for the valve but not the core. The core has a flat part and I couldn't get in and measure it. So I sort of bluffed it as I went along. A 1/16" slitting saw was not wide enough. Fortunately, I had left the tool in the vise on the mill and had a bicycle inner tube to try it on. So I opened up the slot by 0.020" by offsetting the saw +0.010 and -0.010". Then it fit! I then drilled out the end with a 0.081" drill for about 0.1" for some clearance for the button on the valve core.

Then I decided to knurl the end for a little more grip. Seeing as the 1144 rod was only 1/4" diameter, I used my knurler on my mini-lathe, which is a straddle knurler type. I don't yet have one for my 10x22. That's another project, but not for today.

So here it is. A couple hours in the shop, and I'm one of the few Stress proof valve core removers owners in the world! Probably ought to be committed, but you all understand the disease. No drawing, just free form and getting it to fit. No files were harmed in this design, steel or electronic!

Roughly the dimensions are 0.200" diameter, turned down for 0.250", then 0.160" diameter for 0.150". About an 0.082" wide slit maybe 0.140" deep. The knurling, beats me, I just did some and added a couple of rings spaced 0.220" apart, because that is what would work for me without moving the part in the ER collet.

Even after washing my hands a few times, that sulfured cutting oil stinks! I use that on my knurler, works great, but it do stink. It's hard to get my phone to focus on the right thing, so please excuse my finger.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

Put the wood vise back on the workbench I dragged up from the basement. The installation instructions had this crazy bit about insetting the bracket 1/8”, then shimming it. We did that last time and it was kinda terrible.

Then I realized the whole reason for this was because they saved money on not milling the front face of the casting flat… so my mini mill has more earned a little bit more of its keep.

Yeah I also tried hand-cut dovetails for the first time. Terrible, don’t look.

I like it...

 

[verbotenwhisky]

Reassembled the headstock of my DF-1237G.
No leftover parts

No left over parts? how'd that happen? Every time I dig a hole there is always more dirt that will go back in it, what is your secret?

 

[Dhal22]

You'd have to pay me at least $50 to eat one!
Yuck!!!

Brian

My co pay for the hospital visit keeps McDonald’s from paying me to eat their vile crap. $50 isn’t anywhere close to being enough.

 

[Janderso]

My haul today . Bar and round stock . Not worth the time to cut for shipping .

$.04 per pound?
What world do you live in?
I'd like to borrow the keys to your time machine