POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[Firstram]

I'm in Europe, we don't have OSHA here and much less headaches as a result.

That doesn't make pvc safe to use with compressed air, replace it with something more durable as you can. I was in a friends shop and heard air leaking under a countertop, the line blew when I bent down and touched the offending drop. It shattered and shot the female quick disconnect at me, fortunately my forearm was in the way and it didn't hit me in the face. Your Exemplary automotive work should extend over to your air piping! Be safe.

 

[WobblyHand]

PVC gets weaker as temperatures go up. The hotter the summer, or shop temperature, the lower the safe air pressure is. PVC isn't safe for high pressures and high temperatures. You really should replace the PVC line or run low pressures.

 

[tq60]

Thank you. I got to practice with the surface plate, caliper height gauge... Lot of calculations to get the correct measurements for the two slots made and then the location of the hole... Very happy that all went well.

I updated the post with a link to a video I made for my friend... I was doing the final drilling for the correct size hole and took the time to also show him how to use the jig...

He does not have a vise... so he will be drilling this on his drill press, free hand. That is why I made it with a big chunk of aluminum. He has a big enough jig to hold it while drilling.

Show him how to use a transfer punch.

A drill in a drill press will still try to move, drill bushings reduce this.

A good hit on a transfer punch in the fixture will help the drill start much better.

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[whitmore]

PVC gets weaker as temperatures go up. The hotter the summer, or shop temperature, the lower the safe air pressure is. PVC isn't safe for high pressures and high temperatures. You really should replace the PVC line or run low pressures.

I thought PVC (polyvinyl chloride) was not the material employed, but PEX (crosslinked polyethylene);
the PEX is rubbery, won't shatter, but I'd be concerned that it might absorb oil from the
compressor air. According to my materials guide, polyethylene resistance to
oil is only fair. That means an aluminum barrier might help.

Neither PVC nor polyethylene is especially heat-tolerant, either; compressing air does heat it.
The price of black iron schedule 40 pipe and fittings isn't low, but... that's the traditional material.

 

[GoceKU]

I did finish the shop air supply for the garage and the machine shop, i also cleaned out and pressure wash one side of the garage. About the pipes, i've done some research and this are not the type of pipe you are thinking off. They are made from Pex type of material on the outside, with a fiber mid ( green) and nolan on the outside, it is very flexible, almost like rubber. Because of that i've used holders every 30 Sm (one foot). I had a small piece left that i cut apart, you can see it's very flexible and from talking to others that have used the same material it has no problem. The tire shop i use has ordinary PVC pipework and they run 12 bar pressure thru them, going on for over 20 years now.

 

[savarin]

Tried milling a slot in some angle, pretty? not really, functional? you betcha.
Made 2 for a sliding adjustment system.

 

[Firstram]

not the type of pipe you are thinking off. They are made from Pex type of material on the outside, with a fiber mid ( green) and nolan on the outside, it is very flexible, almost like rubber.
View attachment 415114

PERFECT!

 

[wachuko]

Show him how to use a transfer punch.

A drill in a drill press will still try to move, drill bushings reduce this.

A good hit on a transfer punch in the fixture will help the drill start much better.

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I told him to use a 3/16” Cobalt Pilot Point Drill Bit… and to drill one side at a time, not to try to drill through like I did in the video.

I wish he would just get a vise…would be easier that way…

But yeah, a drill guide would have been a good idea…did not think of that.

 

[great white]

Quick break from painting the Atlas. My eagle 66 can showed up today. Came out of the package like this:




Like any semi-sane “machinery man”, first thing I did was pull it apart to it’s individual pieces and inspect for damages/wear.

Checked out all good, so I got out my tools for fixing stainless trim dents and worked out the worst of them. It didn’t have any serious hits to start with so it was quick and easy. Didn’t make it perfect, just respectable and the few little dings I left just show it has some age on it.

Then, 10-15 mins on the buffer, a coat of Carnauba wax on the newly polished pieces and final reassembly:



Hard to complain about those results! Should look nice sitting by the metallic turquoise painted Atlas…all this and functional too!



I’m considering making a few more tubes for it. longer, shorter, bent tip, etc. Whatever I need to make it easier to hit all the Lathe and Mill oiling points.

I do have another on the way. it will get the same treatment as this one and then I’m set for oilers.…unless I find more at a low (ie:cheap) price.

Yes, I’m part crow. I like shiny things!

 

[Weldingrod1]

I recommend a tip with about a 45 degree bend in it, and a custom end with a tiny.o-ring in it. You can seal on the face of a ball oiler and actually pump in the darn thing!

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