POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

I finished the *outside* base for my weld test stand. This base will live it’s whole life outside in the elements.

I also finished the telescoping shaft for the arm on the rollout wheel. This arm & rollout wheel will be brought indoors when not in active use.

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Several days project.
Started this 40 years ago. Thats when the 8" well casing was cemented into the floor. Last week I finally bought an I-beam and finished this light weight gib crane. Built the trolley and pivots. It is run by a 12-volt lawn tractor battery that is constantly charged with a smart charger. Also use the 12 volts for the slip roll, welding rotator and spindexer.
I'll probably limit the lifting to 500 pounds. For heavier lifts I'll still use the chain hoist on the support in the 1st pic.DSCF4982.JPG

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AGCB97 said:
Several days project.
Started this 40 years ago. Thats when the 8" well casing was cemented into the floor. Last week I finally bought an I-beam and finished this light weight gib crane. Built the trolley and pivots. It is run by a 12-volt lawn tractor battery that is constantly charged with a smart charger. Also use the 12 volts for the slip roll, welding rotator and spindexer.
I'll probably limit the lifting to 500 pounds. For heavier lifts I'll still use the chain hoist on the support in the 1st pic.
Click to expand...

Do you intend to do any sort of proof test on the jib crane?
 
I skim cut a couple of brake drums on my mill for a friends 500 fairlane project, but I couldn't do the front drums as the hub bearing is pressed into the drum and would get in the way of the boring head.

So I took this trashed 1" indexable ball nose endmill (with carbide shank center!!) and cut the insert pocket off. This was taking a break from the hacksaw to turn a fan on :)
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tidied up the end and bored a matching hole in a 1-1/4" cube of random steel
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left a hearty bevel for welding it on, until my friend said he needed the brakes on the Fairlane working so he could get to his welder, so I JB welded and pinned it in place instead. Sliding fit was tight enough that I needed a couple of 6" lath chucks to stop the shank from popping back out
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Then turned the shank down to 3/4"
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and milled a set screw flat into the shank
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here you can see the carbide core :)
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and what it looks like in the boring head
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I'll let you all know how it works when I get the drums back to finish off
 
I machined two 8” Sch 40 pipe coupons. Then I welded them together in the 1G position. 3/32” 6010 (at 60A) root, 1/8” 7018 (at 90A) fill & cap.

I welded the 7018 uphill from 10 o’clock to noon. I couldn’t get the 7018 to behave at even the slightest downhill angle.

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The good:

(1) I got no undercut on the two cap passes. 95A on the hot pass was causing undercut.

(2) The rollout wheel is one of the best purchase decisions of my entire life. I did not know that it would also make it easier to grind down the root pass.

(3) The coupons were so uneven, but I made adjustments while welding the root pass. After I ground down the root pass, I was very happy with the result.

The bad:

(1) The coupons were recycled from a previous weld. I parted it right at the old seam. The pipe coupons turned out so poorly because I bored & turned them down just enough to get a perfect pipe on each side, but after this they had a different ID. The coupons looked great by themselves, but I was horrified when I put them together to see how poorly they matched up.

(2) I was not successful blending the 7018 restarts. If I can’t figure this out, I am going to grind down the end of the old bead (when I ran out of rod) before I put in the next bead. I do know to warm up the first inch of the welding area before I establish the puddle (so that the beginning of the bead has enough heat).
 
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Finished up the brake drums. Annoyingly the bore for the boring bar was slightly off vertical, causing the shank to rub when the tip was near the bottom. I knew I should have done it on my mill, not the drill press. Turned the holder round the other way and it worked a treat. I'll have to re-do the set screws and set screw flat, but it did the jobIMG20220703182829.jpg
 
mattthemuppet2 said:
Finished up the brake drums. Annoyingly the bore for the boring bar was slightly off vertical, causing the shank to rub when the tip was near the bottom. I knew I should have done it on my mill, not the drill press. Turned the holder round the other way and it worked a treat. I'll have to re-do the set screws and set screw flat, but it did the jobView attachment 412524
Click to expand...

Great idea, looks like it worked well also.
 
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