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- Oct 16, 2019
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- 6,852
It may be as far back as it can go but I'll double check gentsI agree, if you can't move it back at least add an eyebrow.
It may be as far back as it can go but I'll double check gentsI agree, if you can't move it back at least add an eyebrow.
Meh, ease off on the two front bolts holding the base down, sneak a strip of old file folder underneath, bend it down at a rakish angle using a pair of old slip joint pliers and call ‘er good. Built-in chip flashing, just like you always intended to do…It may be as far back as it can go but I'll double check gents
Great upgrade. Do you plan on adding some silicone grease between the module and sink?Converted the Mopar Electronic ignition to GM HEI. Still need to replace the coil and remove the ballast resistor when that happens. So it is a hybrid system currently. Not much of a job, took a piece of aluminum 1/4” flat stock and drilled an assortment of 8x32 holes for the heatsink and ground strap and a couple 1/4” through holes for the hold down bolts. Will put some dielectric grease on the terminals and rubber sleeves to make it pretty.
PierreView attachment 409858
You have to do that at Step #1 otherwise it dies in minutes, so that was ready done. I literally sold 100s of these back in the days at the parts counter.Great upgrade. Do you plan on adding some silicone grease between the module and sink?
They are hard to beat. About 25 years ago, my '79 F-250 (390/4-speed) gave me fits starting when hot! I swapped the ignition system for the GM HEI and it solved my problems. We have strict smog laws, so I hollowed out the factory ignition module and hid the HEI inside. It looked factory when done.Converted the Mopar Electronic ignition to GM HEI. Still need to replace the coil and remove the ballast resistor when that happens. So it is a hybrid system currently. Not much of a job, took a piece of aluminum 1/4” flat stock and drilled an assortment of 8x32 holes for the heatsink and ground strap and a couple 1/4” through holes for the hold down bolts. Will put some dielectric grease on the terminals and rubber sleeves to make it pretty.
PierreView attachment 409858
Managed to move the mill onto the new stand.
Took some doing as the outriggers on my hoist are too narrow for the width of anything that requires the hoist.
Decided to try putting the outriggers on the outside of the hoist which made the bottom wide enough to get the roller base in between the legs.
Was definitely sketchy and next time I’ll make up some longer pins and some filler pieces for the middle bits.
Not a bit, I did make sure it was clamped together. I wouldn't do it without the top on it though.No problem with bending the sheet metal belt guard that way?
John