I use shop made keys for that purpose with my BP vise. They are accurately made of 1018 steel to a nice fit in both vise (tight) and table (snug but sliding), and are soft so they do not ding the slots. All the exposed corners are carefully rounded in all directions so they do not scratch and ding the table or the slots. They work great and are essentially free. I have the facilities to harden them, but consider that a bad idea.
That makes sense.
 
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Received the DWH today. It is gonna take some clean up, set up, and other prep work before I feel comfortable moving forward with the epoxy tram. However I thought I would post a few pics of the product. Thanks to Mr. Korves for recommending the epoxy tram video. FYI the cans do have expiration dates.
 
My z-axis gib is at full adjustment and still needs to move in a little more. The other gibs adjusted as expected. I haven't particularly noticed slop in the z-axis but wanted to tighten it up as much as reasonably possible. I adjusted the screws all the way in and was still able to tap it in a bit farther with a brass rod with out excessive friction on the ways. I had to back the screws off though because the bottom gib screw ran out of thread. I'm thought about cutting a little of the bottom of the gib to give the bottom screw more purchase, but I'm not sure it would get me enough movement. I may have to ask Matt at PM. Is there any known remedy for this besides shimming or remaking the gib?
 
My z-axis gib is at full adjustment and still needs to move in a little more. The other gibs adjusted as expected. I haven't particularly noticed slop in the z-axis but wanted to tighten it up as much as reasonably possible. I adjusted the screws all the way in and was still able to tap it in a bit farther with a brass rod with out excessive friction on the ways. I had to back the screws off though because the bottom gib screw ran out of thread. I'm thought about cutting a little of the bottom of the gib to give the bottom screw more purchase, but I'm not sure it would get me enough movement. I may have to ask Matt at PM. Is there any known remedy for this besides shimming or remaking the gib?
Shims.
 
I have that same R8 rack from Sisan Co that I use for my R8 tooling. I don't use very many R8 collets. I love that rack. Great quality & inexpensive. I ordered directly from Sisan & it showed up the next day. I had no idea they were local to me.
Yea I like it too. It was priced better than others I saw online also.
 
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I ended up cutting off the part of the gib sticking out. About a 1/2 inch. I was able to get just enough adjustment out of the top screw to get slide reasonably tight and both screws in the right spot.
 
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These look like T-nuts but they are not. They are called stepped vise or fixture keys. They attach to the bottom of a precision vise. They are only T-shaped due to try to match them with the table slots, otherwise they come rectangular. They are also precisely ground and hardened. Kurt sells them for over $30 per pair but not in 12mm. They are precision milled vice keys meant to tram in your vise reasonably accurately to the table slots simply by setting them in the slots.

Some people like those vise locating keys, some people don't. I'm part of those who don't, not on my vise or rotary table anyway. I like to slide my vise onto the table (especially if you have a heavy one) & move it around before setting in location. Quick & easy to tram the vise anyway.

But for my super spacer & tailstock I do use them. I don't rely on them for tram but rather for a general index for one table slot to help get the tailstock in line quicker when I need it.

I did have to mill a step in the locating keys for my super spacer to fit my table. Carbide end mill did the job.
 
After a few weeks making chips, last night I noticed that the 'Y' table has developed some slop in the y direction. I snugged down the backlash adjustment, but that didn't effect the slop. The play was the same.
Any suggestion on where to look for this new play?
 
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