Order of operations and general approach question on this small part

mmcmdl said:
Leave it long and mount it in vise standing up . You could use an end mill to plunge , or use a boring head for the radiis . Not sure what tooling you have on hand .
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That was my thinking, but waiting for more experienced folks first. With my LMS 3990 Mini-Mill, table to spindle nose is 13-1/2, including 2" Riser Block, less 1-7/8" table to bottom of vise (plus 7/8" tall jaws). My 1/2" Boring head sticks out 3", and my 1-3/8" cut bar sticks out at least 3/4". Even without the Riser Block, my boring head would work, assuming @ssdesigner leaves an extra 1" to grab in the chuck.

However, due to the lack of rigidity of a Mini-Mill, I would go with 1" & 1/2" end mills, making the 1/2" radius cut first to have the most material backing up the cut. I would also make multiple plunges for both radii, gradually eating away at the stock (I made 7/8" radius cuts in a 9/16" thick 6061 fluted knob and 3/16" radius, 2-1/8" deep relief cuts for SHCS's this way – took a little time, but came out perfectly). The radii may not be as accurate using the end mills as could be achieved with a boring head on a larger machine, but with a Mini-Mill it's a toss-up. Also, even with the multiple passes with the end mills, it will still take less time than with a boring head.

I used 4-flute end mills.
 
ssdesigner said:
Thanks for that info. My end mill set (goes up to 3/4” as I mentioned) are all center cutting.

I’ll pick up a 1” center cutting end mill. I will need that going forward for another project.
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I suggest getting a 3/4" shank 1"Ø end mill so that you won't need a longer end mill than necessary, and check that your existing 1/2"Ø end mill has more than 1-1/4" cutting length.

The cuts I referred to in post #11 were in projects published in Home Shop Machinist with lists of photos if that helps.


Charlie
 
Well it turns out LMS has their pro grade R8 boring head on sale. I picked that up for future flexibility. Time to learn how to use a couple of new tools! I didn’t have a fly cutter either for facing so I picked that up as well.

Or do people use the boring head for facing?
 
ssdesigner said:
Glad I asked, lol. Thanks!
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I've seen lathes walk across the floor with bar whip . Seen mills and drill presses end up on their side as well . Pretty wild to watch ! :grin::grin:
 
I’m curious why if it’s just a prop you can’t just use some aluminum paint on your original part and call it good?
 
C-Bag said:
I’m curious why if it’s just a prop you can’t just use some aluminum paint on your original part and call it good?
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Because just about anybody can do that ;)

The gun is Inara’s pistol from Firefly. I purchased a real, stainless steel Luger for this build so no plastic allowed ;)

I’m not averse to plastic parts though. Lots of my props are made thst way. This one needs to be all metal though.
 
ssdesigner said:
Because just about anybody can do that ;)
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Uh, I disagree. You had to use a 3D printer to make that so that counts me out as I’m not a heavy CAD user nor 3D printer buff. We who actually make stuff tend to think everyone does but not true by a long shot.

I sporadically watch Adam Savage’s Tested and he has all kinds of movie props and most seem less than functional so that’s why I asked. I get now it’s a personal decision and I respect that, was just curious.
 
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