'new' Powr-kraft 10" Lathe And Some Questions.

[T. J.]

Thanks. It has worked well for me, and I'm happy that I bought it and spent the time on it. That said, every machine has its weaknesses and this one has its fair share. Here are a few of the things I don't like about it:

• Small spindle through hole (25/32") - limits the size of stock that can pass through and doesn't allow for using 5c collets in the spindle nose.
• Plain apron - all feeding is powered by the lead screw. Also, no clutch.
• As a result of the above, the finest feed is 0.004" per revolution. I often wish for a finer feed to produce a better surface finish.
• Underpowered. Mine has a 1/2 HP motor (which is what the machine is spec'ed for). You're not going to be doing any "hogging"

Those are the main drawbacks for me. As with everything, YMMV and that mostly depends on the kind of work you plan on doing. Fill us in if you wind up buying it and of course ask questions if you have them!

 

[jperry109]

Thanks for the reply. All good info. I didn't know the Powr-Kraft couldn't use the 5C collets. I bet the specific collets for this machine are hard to find. I knew the spindle hole was small but can likely work around that. The feed rates may bother me a bit. I'll look at it tomorrow and provide feedback. Thanks again.

 

[T. J.]

It will take 3AT collets. They're not as common as 5c, but they are available.

 

[CluelessNewB]

You can use 5C collets with a 5C collet chuck but it's not ideal since it increases the overhang and runout. That's what I have on my Logan 820 and has been good enuf for me.

 

[jperry109]

Very helpful, thank you. It's come down to this machine and a larger 11" Logan table lathe which has the 1.375 spindle hole, automatic apron and motor under the table. Same price but the bigger machine will require rigging costs. It's 850 lbs versus the Powr-Kraft at 450.

 

[wa5cab]

The larger through-hole requires a larger spindle nose which means that generally almost everything that goes on the spindle will cost more at least when new, and some when used. This usually includes the lathe itself although you say it isn't true with what you are looking at. So it usually depends upon what your pocketbook can stand.

 

[jperry109]

I bought the Powr-Kraft lathe tonight. I have one reservation about the purchase and would appreciate your thoughts. The lathe sat for 15 years unused. It's in a heated dry space but the spindle was stuck at first. I released the spindle so it should move freely and it did not. After sometime I muscled it and it broke free and began to move. The more we spun it, the easier it got. Makes sense. However, it didn't move as freely as I thought it should. I'd describe the sensation as feeling the ball bearings moving around in the bearing race. I suspect the bearings are not sealed and likely filled with dust and debris over 15 years. Thoughts?

The lathe included the original 3-jaw chuck, a face plate, three drive dogs, basic original tooling. It's on it's original cast iron legs and oil pan. The ways are in good condition. All seemed right. I paid $750. How'd I do?

 

[jperry109]

It also includes the quick change gearbox. I left that out.

 

[T. J.]

Used machinery prices vary according to what part of the country you're in. To me, it sounds like a steal. But if the spindle bearings are shot, you're not done spending money yet

The Logan spindle bearings are supposed to be "permanently" lubricated, but remember that lube is at least 50 years old. Check the spindle runout with a DTI and see what you get. Once you have it under power, run it and see if the bearing gets hot. If you need to replace the bearings, I believe there is at least one thread here dealing with that process. I won't be much help, since that's the only part of my lathe I didn't tear apart.

 

[jperry109]

I tore down the Powr-Kraft lathe. I was able to salvage the front spindle bearing by irrigating and repacking it. But the back bearing was toasted and sealed. I ordered the back bearing and it should ship out today. I "refreshed" all components of the lathe. It's in remarkable condition. The ways are spotless. The screws have very little backlash. It should be a nice little machine once complete. I'm upgrading it with a forward/reverse switch but may put a 2.5HP DC motor and tachometer on it for finer control. I have both from another project I abandoned.

I can see where the manual apron may represent a challenge to finish quality. I may make a tool holder for a grinding stone to take off any threading that occurs. No pictures yet. Still in pieces.