New lathe day - Warco GH600

[jwmay]

I think that should be fine?

Me too.

Is there any reason I’d ever need to be below centre line anyway?

Not really. Some people suggest a minor below centre setting for certain stuff. I’ve not run into that in several years of hobby machining weekends.

And if so, how far?

See #2, and always remember that YMMV.

 

[Larry$]

Is there any reason I’d ever need to be below centre line anyway

Maybe, but I don't know when. If so it would be very little. You just never want to be above.

 

[BGHansen]

Were you using a carbide end mill?

I did though it wasn't a brand new one. I don't recall RPM, DOC and WOC, but I tend to be conservative. It was a 1/2" carbide 4-flute at probably around 800 RPMs. DOC probably around 0.050", WOC about the same.

Bruce

Edited: And done with a Bridgeport though I can't lock the table on mine. It's a CNC/manual mill with ball screws and the table locks have been removed.

 

[Ben17484]

Me too.

Not really. Some people suggest a minor below centre setting for certain stuff. I’ve not run into that in several years of hobby machining weekends.

See #2, and always remember that YMMV.

Nice. Thanks. Only thing left to do is get a new tool post bolt machines up then.


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[pontiac428]

Perhaps you can face the top of the compound as much as you dare, then abandon the toolpost stud hole in favor of a T-slot like most other lathes (assuming you can do this with your mill) you'd be in business. By cutting the T-slot as far toward the front edge of the compound as practicable, you can hang the tool holder over the side so it no longer rests on the compound. You'll have to use the compound yaw a lot more than you would if your tool post had "normal" height, but that's not too bad with the right selection of tools.

As it is, you will not be able to use a cut-off tool on that lathe. There are few alternatives for that little bugaboo.

 

[WobblyHand]

If you have a four jaw chuck, you can machine the bottom of the tool holders in your lathe. The bottom surface isn't a critical surface. At least for the tool holders I have (including a name brand Aloris) they machine fine using carbide. I'd use some aluminum or brass shims to keep from marking up the bluing. It only takes a couple minutes to machine it. If you are concerned about these things, you can reblue the bottom surface. I haven't bothered to reblue mine, to many other things to do...

 

[Ben17484]

Started fitting the DRO today. I ordered a 3 Axis DRO with the intention of swapping it with the 2 axis on my mill so I can add an extra Z axis scale on the mill. Turns out that the pins must be different in the cables from the scales as the DRO’s won’t just straight swap.

Anyway, fitted the X axis scale tonight and hung the DRO:

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[ivel03]

I ordered a 3 Axis DRO with the intention of swapping it with the 2 axis on my mill so I can add an extra Z axis scale on the mill. Turns out that the pins must be different in the cables from the scales as the DRO’s won’t just straight swap.

Are they both DB9 connections? If so it might be a pin out thing or it could also be the output signals - 5V TTL vs 5V RS422. If you can find a datasheet on both the new and old scales it will answer the question for you.

 

[Ben17484]

I received the AXA XL tool holder today and tried it out with my 12mm tooling. No luck. Still above centre line. I measured the holder and it looks like they’ve sent me the regular holder, not the XL version! I’ve contacted the seller to ask how to get the one I ordered and I’ll try again.


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[Ben17484]

Z axis scale fitted:

I know that actually they are the Z and X axis on a lathe, but my simple brain prefers X and Y.


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