Need info on a good oxy/acteylene set up for brazing

[verbotenwhisky]

Your caution is well placed. Many insurance companies (and their adjusters) will try to ask adversarial questions to invalidate coverage any possible reason.

However a very careful reading of the fine print of your home ownership policy tells a different story. For the sake of prudence, My oxyset is on a wheeled welding cart in my garden shed, under lock and key. One could make the argument that using it indoors might trigger the nonsense. But since that isn't in the written contract, well you know.

I have tussled with auto insurance companies 3 times, and house insurance people once, in the past. So far I have come out with a satisfactory outcome every time. My most recent one, I moved my insurance to another company and fired my broker, because of nonsense about metalworking, so I chose a company with full disclosure, that was only a small up-charge. This my first neutral result in 45 years.

Insurance companies are a necessary evil in my opinion. I pay a bit of an up-charge for my insurance because I have an attached garage and they assumed I would have gasoline cars in it and that is also where my Gas water heater is located. the agent was informed that I have welding equipment and they added it to the policy (up-charge). They do not refer to it as an up-charge though, that have a leagalese term for it, same same....

 

[Nesse1]

You don't need a chamfer to hold the silver. It will flow into the gap no problem. Your challenge will be controlling the heat so the silver doesn't flow into the tube, leaving a gap at the top.

 

[helmbelly]

To clean, put the parts in water, the hotter the better.

I was told to dip them in boiling water by somebody.

 

[Nesse1]

I was told to dip them in boiling water by somebody.

Boiling water isn't needed with silver appropriate flux. Hotter water will speed up the process though. It's brass flux that's crazy difficult to dissolve without hot water.

 

[helmbelly]

You don't need a chamfer to hold the silver. It will flow into the gap no problem. Your challenge will be controlling the heat so the silver doesn't flow into the tube, leaving a gap at the top.

I was also thinking if both tube and stud are beveled/chamfered it makes a clean machined surface and more surface to grab with the taper. And I might try cutting a piece of solder and laying it in the notch? As far is getting into the tube - yeah I follow - just have to get in there and experiment and find the sweet spot

 

[verbotenwhisky]

I was also thinking if both tube and stud are beveled/chamfered it makes a clean machined surface and more surface to grab with the taper. And I might try cutting a piece of solder and laying it in the notch? As far is getting into the tube - yeah I follow - just have to get in there and experiment and find the sweet spot

Nesse1 is correct, no bevel is required. I have found that, What works for me, using the flux, make certain the parts have a reasonably good fit and feed the solder in at one point using the heat on the parts only, never heating the solder itself. The explanation/instructions Nesse1 gave in a previous post are excellent. It doesn't require a huge amount of solder to do the job, generally speaking when I see it begin to fill all around the joint I stop. I like to use a 00 tip, it is big enough to provide the heat required and small enough to slow things enough to provide time and control.

 

[helmbelly]

Bring it! Now we get to settle a wager. I still think increasing the amount of machined surface in contact is best. I'm not seeing the argument against that. If it's not needed as a catch pool for the silver - ok fair enough, but if I can get more silver in contact with more steel it's a win. I'm no engineer so I'll just try it both ways and take a picture and will post them up hopefully sunday - see what you think. I don't have any equip to do a break test, but hopefully it will be pretty clear to the eye which braze looks more hefty. It's on like donkey kong!

 

[helmbelly]

I think drilling two diff diameter holes in the tube the stud goes through might be good. If the stud is turned down to the minor diameter of the bolt (fresh metal below threads) and I get an OD off that, increase it by a few thou for the "top" hole when it's cold assembled the stud will bottom out on a square shoulder. That shoulder being a right angle should hold the silver like a catch. Yeah? I'll do both this way, one chamfered, one straight. I bet both will be strong as a woodpecker's beak. I should add a third candidate- the unfussy hussy and do nothing to one, just clean it and braze it.

 

[helmbelly]

Duh. I have to turn the stud down beneath the minor diameter to get the shoulder. I guess I'll go around .030 past to make a 1/16 shoulder. Now I've talked myself out of bothering with the bevel, the right angle takes the cake. you'll never see it but if the solder runs it has to land there !

 

[verbotenwhisky]

Duh. I have to turn the stud down beneath the minor diameter to get the shoulder. I guess I'll go around .030 past to make a 1/16 shoulder. Now I've talked myself out of bothering with the bevel, the right angle takes the cake. you'll never see it but if the solder runs it has to land there !

You will be amazed where that solder will go, the small spaces it can run into. I have threaded 3/4" pipe threads together then silver soldered them, its the ultimate seal/thread lock you have to cut them apart.