Monarch 10ee

[Karl_T]

If you do pull the trigger on that one, let me know. I've had two 10EEs, won't part with the one in my shop, ever.

The eBay one almost certainly has the thyratron drive. VERY difficult to repair. I replaced the drive with a VFD and three phase motor, keeping the back gear out of the old DC motor. Prices on VFDs have come WAY down since I did this job. If I were doing it over, I'd get a 7.5 or 10 hp motor and VFD and forget the backgear. This could could be installed in a couple evenings.

I did note a missing bracket on the taper attachment in the eBay offer

Karl

 

[MattM]

Bought the Texas machine. Pick up this Wednesday delivery in 4-5 days. I am well pleased (and hope to be when it gets here.)

 

[MattM]

Bought the Texas machine. Pick up this Wednesday deliver in 4-5 days.

 

[Karl_T]

With all that tooling, you did very well. have you checked tooling prices for the 10EE?

You will be extremely happy with this late model machine.

Pretty sure this era of 10EE used the thyratron drive. Use it while it works. If it needs more than minor maintenance, I'd suggest installing a 10hp 3 phase motor and VFD. I did 5hp and re-used the back gear on mine but with today's VFD prices, I'd just go larger motor if I were to go down this road again.

 

[Doubleeboy]

I notice Mason leveling feet on machine photo sitting on skid. My experience with Mason levelers is they are for manufacturing conveyors and the like. They are dreadful on a machine tool, the machine will vibrate and rock sitting on them. I fooled around with them for a year or so before I gave up.

Best of luck
michael

 

[MattM]

It has two large tubes. Does that constitute a thyratron drive?

If I go 10hp I'd have to get a larger 3 phase converter, my present one is 7.5hp.

I'm thinking on getting a DRO. Any suggestions?

I notice Mason leveling feet on machine photo sitting on skid. My experience with Mason levelers is they are for manufacturing conveyors and the like. They are dreadful on a machine tool, the machine will vibrate and rock sitting on them. I fooled around with them for a year or so before I gave up.

Best of luck
michael

Michael---Thank you. What do you suggest?---Matt

 

[Doubleeboy]

I like bolts with nuts and flat washers, 5/8" diameter holes on my 1956 lathe. I just let machine sit on the head of bolt, grind the grade marking off first. Only down side is you have to jack lathe up to get bolt in hole with head side down. I am old with a bad back. So I built a crude toe jack. There are plans on you tube if you like or you can pay a few hundred and buy one ready made. Jet makes a nice one, get your check book out though. If you use a toe jack make sure you are lifting on cast iron base and not that pretty aluminum cover. When I first got my machine I had it sit on 4 x 4 blocks run front to back , about 3 foot long. Worked fine but lathe was an inch too high for me. So I went with Mason feet, the orange ones, that lead to nothing but problems, surface finish went south, vibration issues. Now I have it on bolts and check level every year, much nicer.

I would not be surprised it you don't have start up problems with a 7.5 hp rotary converter, give it a try but if it wont fire up easy, you may need a 10 or twelve. Might check on the PM board and see what folks say about your model and phase conversion. As I mentioned in phone call, Donnie is man on machines of your vintage over there.

michael

 

[Karl_T]

It has two large tubes. Does that constitute a thyratron drive?

If I go 10hp I'd have to get a larger 3 phase converter, my present one is 7.5hp.

I'm thinking on getting a DRO. Any suggestions?


Michael---Thank you. What do you suggest?---Matt

Yep, those are thyratron tubes. The standard joke here is you need to be a EE to repair this drive. Note, if its not broke, don't fix it.

If you go to a 10hp motor and VFD, I'd hook it up to single phase 220 myself. 30 amp breaker would be plenty. if you do want to run the rotary converter to the VFD for some reason, the 7.5 hp system will be plenty. You will never use anywhere near full hp, you just need low end torque when you are running at 5% of full motor RPM. Note get a 1200 rpm not a 1750, you'll have more low end and you can still spin this motor up to 4000.

IMHO, this lathe deserves the best. I put an Accurite DRO with their best scale on the X axis. With a good system like this, working to 2 tenths accuracy is easy.

 

[MattM]

It is 220 single phase. Is this good, bad, or terrible?

 

[Karl_T]

It is 220 single phase. Is this good, bad, or terrible?

Great, if it runs and you don't need to do anything. Very good chance the truck trip kills those 40 years old vacuum tubes.

Karl