Monarch 10ee

That's a tough call. Personally, I would find it hard to spend that kind of dough for a machine without personally inspecting it. However, if it is what you really want, are comfortable with the price and feel the seller is being truthful it may be a good deal. I would ask many questions, particularly about the drive upgrade.
 
I would check freight and shipping, it could be significant. I also do not follow the weight as being listed as 2500lb, other listings/brochure for this model are closer to 3500lb. I would be hesitant to pay that much for a machine and not be able to evaluate it up front, but the description seems reasonable and fair. There is another 10EE for much less that seems to be in good working order at 1/2 the price and make an offer. At the asking price or less, I would have less reservations about buying it site unseen. A little elbow work and some paint and looks like it would be a very nice machine. It appears to be a newer model, comes with a taper turning attachment and I believe it has an electronic leadscrew reverse on this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Monarch-10ee-/201665856506

Other options if I where to spend close to 10K or more with shipping would be something new like an ERL-1340, RML-1440, or PM1440GT. These models are branded under different names, all of these are precision machines and have a wider working envelope. There are also the Grizzly/SB models, the latter are at 50% off. These look to be rebranded ERL and RML machines.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/erl-1340.39331/
http://www.kentusa.com/lathes-2/manual-precision-series/rml-1440vt-manual-precision-lathe/
http://www.machinetoolonline.com/PM1660G.html
http://www.machinetoolonline.com/PM-1440GTLathe.html
http://www.grizzly.com/products/14-x-40-Lathe-220V/SB1012?utm_campaign=zPage
 

Attachments

  • Monarch 10EE Brochure - 1970s.pdf
    1.4 MB · Views: 6
  • Monarch 10EE Manual.pdf
    8.2 MB · Views: 7
Last edited:
with all do respect. There is no comparison between a budget Asian machine with gear head and a belt driven Ultra High Precision machine like a 10ee or HLVH. Factory spec on 10ee is 6 inch length stock turned between centers, variation in turned diameter < .00005" with hi grade surface finish, good luck hitting half a tenth with good surface finish with a Taiwanese machine weighing half as much and having gear head. These are high precision machines thru and thru, not just on the name plate decal. I own Griz 1640 RML type machine, not bad, but for 15K its not even close to being in the same league as my well worn 60 year old 10ee. There is a reason Monarch can sell rebuilt machines for the prices they do. They are real deal. If threading is your passion maybe get a HLVH instead, but for a general purpose High precision machine 10ee is hard to beat. If you are really interested in 10ee you need to spend some time operating one, if its in good shape and you can get along with its envelope and operating behavior I think you would find it not to be comparable to a gear head lathe made to a price point. I use my Grizzly lathe a lot, but if I want to nail a piece to a tight tolerance its the 10ee. The EE is a joy to operate, everything moves like it was built by Mercedes or BMW. Everything on the Griz moves like it was made by Ford if you get my drift.

michael
 
mksj said:
I would check freight and shipping, it could be significant. I also do not follow the weight as being listed as 2500lb, other listings/brochure for this model are closer to 3500lb. I would be hesitant to pay that much for a machine and not be able to evaluate it up front, but the description seems reasonable and fair. There is another 10EE for much less that seems to be in good working order at 1/2 the price and make an offer. At the asking price or less, I would have less reservations about buying it site unseen. A little elbow work and some paint and looks like it would be a very nice machine. It appears to be a newer model, comes with a taper turning attachment and I believe it has an electronic leadscrew reverse on this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Monarch-10ee-/201665856506

Other options if I where to spend close to 10K or more with shipping would be something new like an ERL-1340, RML-1440, or PM1440GT. These models are branded under different names, all of these are precision machines and have a wider working envelope. There are also the Grizzly/SB models, the latter are at 50% off. These look to be rebranded ERL and RML machines.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/erl-1340.39331/
http://www.kentusa.com/lathes-2/manual-precision-series/rml-1440vt-manual-precision-lathe/
http://www.machinetoolonline.com/PM1660G.html
http://www.machinetoolonline.com/PM-1440GTLathe.html

That price is not a "buy it now" price. I suspect that machine will go at two to three times that price.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/14-x-40-Lathe-220V/SB1012?utm_campaign=zPage
Click to expand...
 
Doubleeboy said:
with all do respect. There is no comparison between a budget Asian machine with gear head and a belt driven Ultra High Precision machine like a 10ee or HLVH. Factory spec on 10ee is 6 inch length stock turned between centers, variation in turned diameter < .00005" with hi grade surface finish, good luck hitting half a tenth with good surface finish with a Taiwanese machine weighing half as much and having gear head. These are high precision machines thru and thru, not just on the name plate decal. I own Griz 1640 RML type machine, not bad, but for 15K its not even close to being in the same league as my well worn 60 year old 10ee. There is a reason Monarch can sell rebuilt machines for the prices they do. They are real deal. If threading is your passion maybe get a HLVH instead, but for a general purpose High precision machine 10ee is hard to beat. If you are really interested in 10ee you need to spend some time operating one, if its in good shape and you can get along with its envelope and operating behavior I think you would find it not to be comparable to a gear head lathe made to a price point. I use my Grizzly lathe a lot, but if I want to nail a piece to a tight tolerance its the 10ee. The EE is a joy to operate, everything moves like it was built by Mercedes or BMW. Everything on the Griz moves like it was made by Ford if you get my drift.

michael
Click to expand...

That is my exact impression after doing much on the line research and talking with several oldtime retired machinists, one with more than 60 years in the biz
 
That's a least four days on the road and one day there. I have a nice big Tundra that could haul it, but by the time you add up the gas and good motels and restaurants (the Wife don't do Motel 6 and Applebees) I'm bucks ahead hiring a trucking company.
 
If you decide to buy it and hire the moving contact me for some thoughts on not ruining a 10ee while moving. The machine should be picked up by fork lift from back side only, but it needs to be blocked with substantial timber spacers to protect taper attachment. Do not let anyone tell you its okay to pick up by spindle, its not, there are only 2 bearings on spindle, put several thousand pounds of pressure on them in wrong direction, you will no longer get surface finish you are paying for. Fork lift or sling on eyebolt mounted to bed infront of spindle about 1 foot, its in the manual. If picked up by fork lift, block it and strap it before moving lift, if the rigger wont do it right and guarantee no damage get a better rigger. If its a tube model, you want to slide out the WiaD, remove tubes, slide WiaD back in and secure. lathe with taper and closer, and the very large 3 hp motor weights 3250 lbs. The 5 hp machines weight a little less, the motor generator machines about the same. You want a 5000 lb fork lift with long forks, good brakes , side shift and triple mast if you are going to get it in a garage with 8 foot doors, 7 foot doors, you likely will not be able to drive in door. One final thought, make sure lathe has back gear still installed and working. Unless its a Monarch retro fit with 7 to 10 hp, they have no low end torque or speed without back gear. My machine will turn 8 rpm and take everyone reading this and throw them across room before stalling, with out back gear anything less than 200 rpm is pretty worthless unless its the Monarch retro fit.

any questions message me
michael
 
Doubleeboy said:
If you decide to buy it and hire the moving contact me for some thoughts on not ruining a 10ee while moving. The machine should be picked up by fork lift from back side only, but it needs to be blocked with substantial timber spacers to protect taper attachment. Do not let anyone tell you its okay to pick up by spindle, its not, there are only 2 bearings on spindle, put several thousand pounds of pressure on them in wrong direction, you will no longer get surface finish you are paying for. Fork lift or sling on eyebolt mounted to bed infront of spindle about 1 foot, its in the manual. If picked up by fork lift, block it and strap it before moving lift, if the rigger wont do it right and guarantee no damage get a better rigger. If its a tube model, you want to slide out the WiaD, remove tubes, slide WiaD back in and secure. lathe with taper and closer, and the very large 3 hp motor weights 3250 lbs. The 5 hp machines weight a little less, the motor generator machines about the same. You want a 5000 lb fork lift with long forks, good brakes , side shift and triple mast if you are going to get it in a garage with 8 foot doors, 7 foot doors, you likely will not be able to drive in door. One final thought, make sure lathe has back gear still installed and working. Unless its a Monarch retro fit with 7 to 10 hp, they have no low end torque or speed without back gear. My machine will turn 8 rpm and take everyone reading this and throw them across room before stalling, with out back gear anything less than 200 rpm is pretty worthless unless its the Monarch retro fit.

any questions message me
michael
Click to expand...

Thank you. I am going to print this and discuss it with the seller, if I decide to buy.
 
Doubleeboy said:
If you decide to buy it and hire the moving contact me for some thoughts on not ruining a 10ee while moving. The machine should be picked up by fork lift from back side only, but it needs to be blocked with substantial timber spacers to protect taper attachment. Do not let anyone tell you its okay to pick up by spindle, its not, there are only 2 bearings on spindle, put several thousand pounds of pressure on them in wrong direction, you will no longer get surface finish you are paying for. Fork lift or sling on eyebolt mounted to bed infront of spindle about 1 foot, its in the manual. If picked up by fork lift, block it and strap it before moving lift, if the rigger wont do it right and guarantee no damage get a better rigger. If its a tube model, you want to slide out the WiaD, remove tubes, slide WiaD back in and secure. lathe with taper and closer, and the very large 3 hp motor weights 3250 lbs. The 5 hp machines weight a little less, the motor generator machines about the same. You want a 5000 lb fork lift with long forks, good brakes , side shift and triple mast if you are going to get it in a garage with 8 foot doors, 7 foot doors, you likely will not be able to drive in door. One final thought, make sure lathe has back gear still installed and working. Unless its a Monarch retro fit with 7 to 10 hp, they have no low end torque or speed without back gear. My machine will turn 8 rpm and take everyone reading this and throw them across room before stalling, with out back gear anything less than 200 rpm is pretty worthless unless its the Monarch retro fit.

any questions message me
michael
Click to expand...

Once delivered can I use a pallet jack to move it off the liftgate and into my shop (same level as the driveway)?
 
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