Monarch 10EE - what to do?

Still could be valuable to make contact. Says best offer so offer a lower amount considering shipping. Also contact is worth it because of networking. Maybe this guy knows people closer with same machines or someone else with parts can ask about that when you contact him.
 
Definitely not the original motor. Maybe it came out of a forklift or something like that? Without being able to see the data plate on the motor, it's impossible to tell what your options are for an electronic DC drive. As mentioned before, DC controllers for a 3HP-ish DC motor start at around $160; you'll spend way more than that on an AC motor and VFD.

Given what you've got, a VFD may be your only option. If you go that way, get the biggest motor that will physically fit without carving up the base. Used 3-phase motors go for $10 per HP down here. Ideally you want an "inverter duty" motor, which has insulation that can take the switching transients that a VFD puts out. If you get a non-inverter duty motor, you should install an AC line reactor between the VFD and the motor. I would keep the stepped pulley setup and see how it works for you, since it will give you two speed ranges to choose from. In general, a 10HP-ish VFD that runs from single-phase power is fairly pricey. A 10HP, 3-phase-input VFD from factorymation is about $550; I don't know if they even carry single-phase VFDs that big. Some 3-phase VFDs will run from single-phase, but it's not ideal. The are some Chinese VFDs on eBay, starting at about $220, if you're feeling lucky.

220V, 60A is plenty of power.
 
When you go above 3hp( motors and vfd's) price goes up fast, extra cost to ship .Instead of $1k for a package you are talking 2 to 3 times more.

Sensorless vector vfd will give you torque that you need at low speeds. Also costs more. No magic bullet on this issue.
 
I finally strung a few hours together to start dismantling the machine. I've located a gearbox so the electric motor choice becomes easier for me (I'll follow the same basic path as fellow forum member Deek). Now it's just a matter of systematically going through each sub-system one at a time. I'll start from the base and bed and work my way up from there. I have a plan on how to re-create the missing covers (fiberglass) so that should be pretty straighrtforward to do...unless some originals happen to cross my path. Let the games begin! Woo hoo!

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I see your in Canada ...a friend of mine Shane Carr in Port Coquitlam BC who has rebuilt several. He has 2 way grinders and can scrape. (a student of mine)You can also email him for help if you need it.
http://www.carrsmachining.com/about.php

I will be teaching a class in Ohio in August where I can show you ... also possibly one in middle of July in Oklahoma. Shane attended the class at Bourn & Koch in Rockford IL. in 2016. Pictures of Shane in Checkered shirt.

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Phab, first congrats on your purchase!

--regarding lathes being too low, most are way too low even for us 5' 10" people. Most of my machinist friends have made risers out of steel tubing/plate to bring the late to a height where 'stooping' is unnecessary. Because of my back, I can't use the machine very long if I have to bend over it.

I'm looking forward to seeing some pictures of this restoration project!!
 
Dc motor power is extremely powerfull , with the right controls I doubt you would ever need an a.c. three phase motor. There easily reversed and a potentiometer that was in the lathe probably would work your speed changes . Plus the pulley change there already is adding more speed or torque. Just my observations , many large machines run dc powered motors , our giant radial drill press used I think 24 volt system. There are pluses to using dc power over a.c.. And I love the 10EE there just perfect machines.
 
The base and bed are now stripped of the old green paint. I used a sharp paint scraper and a razor blade scraper. It seemed to work pretty good - and I didn't have to bother with chemicals (which is a good thing). Now it's ready for some smoothing out on the 'outside' areas that are visible before applying paint. Once the base is done, I'll tackle the sub-assemblies one by one. First will be the headstock followed by the gearbox, motor and VFD. I'll get all of that hooked up and running. Then I can make the new end covers...

Compared to my Southbend lathes, this thing is massive and HEAVY! The shop crane is really handy!

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