Monarch 10EE - what to do?

Phayb said:
The stamped lettering on the bed are "INSPECTED NHE Lot No. 12653". Looks like it's a 1941 model. ...
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Yes, that's your serial number. It's probably very late 1941 or early to mid 1942. Monarch assigned serial numbers when the machine was ordered. Sometimes orders would get placed on hold, for various reasons, so two machines that were build sequentially might have a big difference in serial number. The only way to know when it was actually built (given that the build tag is missing) is to contact Monarch. If you're nice to Terrie, she might tell you without having to spend money buying the documentation package.

Why don't you first see what you've got, how well it works and how it suits your needs. Unless you're actually looking for a machine tool reconditioning project, don't rush into "upgrading" it. Post some photos of your spindle motor and drive controls so that I can see what you have to work with.
 
Cal Haines said:
Yes, that's your serial number. It's probably very late 1941 or early to mid 1942. Monarch assigned serial numbers when the machine was ordered. Sometimes orders would get placed on hold, for various reasons, so two machines that were build sequentially might have a big difference in serial number. The only way to know when it was actually built (given that the build tag is missing) is to contact Monarch. If you're nice to Terrie, she might tell you without having to spend money buying the documentation package.

Why don't you first see what you've got, how well it works and how it suits your needs. Unless you're actually looking for a machine tool reconditioning project, don't rush into "upgrading" it. Post some photos of your spindle motor and drive controls so that I can see what you have to work with.
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Cal...the entire drive system was discarded at some point at least two owners previous. I'm basically starting from ground zero on the electrical drive end of things...which is fine. I am leaning more towards the 7.5 hp motor and drive system as I think it'll end up being the most time and cost effective approach. The old MG drive is what was originally inside the lathe and it intrigues me (from the technical side of things)...but as I said, all of it is gutted out. The only thing left are the old conduits with wires still inside, the main switch box, the drum switch and contractors behind the headstock.

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By the way...what's the diameter of the spindle pulley supposed to be? What's on the machine is 7.3" which I think is too large.
 
There are all different pulley set ups on the WWII era machines. Must have been partly due to war time shortages.

my early 1941 machine has six inch toothed flat belts on both the motor and the spindle. But this is not common.
 
Phayb,

You have a motor that's belted up to the spindle. Assuming that there's a way to power the motor, why not use it for a while and see how it works for you? If you do a lot of threading or don't need high spindle RPMs, a DC motor is going to be much better than an AC motor without the backgear unit. I don't know very many people running VFDs without backgear units that are happy with them.

I need to see some better photos of the motor and it's control box (if any). Take a photo of the data plate on the motor. BTW, that's not the original motor.

The pulley on the spindle isn't oversized. It looks about right for a machine with a 2500 RPM tach an may be original to the machine. 10EEs were available with 2500, 3500 or 4000 RPM spindles. The V-belt drives used two, matched V-belts, apparently a single belt wasn't sufficient.
 
Cal Haines said:
Phayb,

You have a motor that's belted up to the spindle. Assuming that there's a way to power the motor, why not use it for a while and see how it works for you? If you do a lot of threading or don't need high spindle RPMs, a DC motor is going to be much better than an AC motor without the backgear unit. I don't know very many people running VFDs without backgear units that are happy with them.

I need to see some better photos of the motor and it's control box (if any). Take a photo of the data plate on the motor. BTW, that's not the original motor.

The pulley on the spindle isn't oversized. It looks about right for a machine with a 2500 RPM tach an may be original to the machine. 10EEs were available with 2500, 3500 or 4000 RPM spindles. The V-belt drives used two, matched V-belts, apparently a single belt wasn't sufficient.
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Cal...thanks for your insight thus far...most helpful. Below is a photo of the 'franken-motor' that has been installed. It doesn't look like any of the motors I have seen for these lathes. You can see the battery disconnect. In addition, I took a photo of the tachometer showing this baby is a 4000 RPM spindle. I don't want to run the lathe 'as is'...it's not what I want to do. It's coming apart right down to the wood and being re-assembled as nicely as I can.

If it is more cost effective to buy the gearbox and DC motor from the ebay seller (or another) and then buy a DC drive set-up, then I'll consider it. People have been writing on the forums about 7.5 hp AC motors and VFDs without the gearbox...but I just went onto the Monarch site and they use 7.5 hp motors WITH 5:1 gearboxes. So I'm a bit confused...

I've never used a Monarach. I've used the small Southbends and the lathes at work (Western, Colchester and Microweily). So I'm still wondering what the best option will be. For sure I know that input power is 220V single phase on a 60A circuit...so whatever I choose will need to work off of that.

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