Models for grinding HSS Lathe Tools

Very straightforward. The process is the same except that the compound is turned 29.5 degrees toward the tailstock instead of the chuck and the lead screw must be run in reverse so that you're cutting from left to right. Same tool can be used as for right hand thread and it is oriented exactly the same way as for a right hand thread. It is best to create a thread relief so your tool has a place to start the cut. Should be simple for you to do.
 
Thanks Mikey. I will be ordering the 316 stainless and a few other fittings that I need for this project tomorrow.
 
Best to do a trial run if you can, just to get the procedure down, but you'll do fine.
 
I finally received the Tube Wax. I purchased the same product you recommended. The tube is 12" long by 2" thick. I am sure that I now have a lifetime of belt dressing! Are you sure you pushed up from the bottom? I cant get it to budge.
Also, on the tube it states that it can be used for sawing, grinding, drilling, tapping, etc. It appears to be the same product as Nix Stikx but the Tube Wax appears to be a little more thick. I will trying it on my band saw and maybe some drills although I am lenient to try it for drilling.
ttabbal said:
It's quite soft. The tube is like a caulk or grease tube, I just hand push it from the bottom to get a little sticking out, then lightly touch it on the belt. Seems to last for the whole grind. I suspect the stuff you have is quite similar.

I don't find I need it on the lighter grit belts, I only use it on the 36 for bulk material removal. After that, I tend to use a light touch just to clean things up and prep for honing. It might be more useful for knife making or similar on the other belts as you might need to use them longer.
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9t8z28 said:
I finally received the Tube Wax. I purchased the same product you recommended. The tube is 12" long by 2" thick. I am sure that I now have a lifetime of belt dressing! Are you sure you pushed up from the bottom? I cant get it to budge.
Also, on the tube it states that it can be used for sawing, grinding, drilling, tapping, etc. It appears to be the same product as Nix Stikx but the Tube Wax appears to be a little more thick. I will trying it on my band saw and maybe some drills although I am lenient to try it for drilling.
Click to expand...


I've only tried it on the belt grinder, but it works great for that. I'm sure it would work for other things as well.

Pushing it out was difficult to get started. Once it starts moving, it doesn't take much to do it again. You could probably just put the tube and all on the belt, a little cardboard probably won't hurt anything.. :)
 
These tubes can have severe constipation and getting the wax to move out of the tube can be difficult. Take a heat gun and gently warm the tube and the outer layer will melt and you can push it out with ease.

I use this stuff for tool grinding, on the metal bandsaw, hacksaw, for drilling and tapping and to ease a sticky drawer. Also good for driving screws into hard wood, too. I even used it on a bowstring when I needed some and didn't have the real stuff; worked fine for that, too.
 
I just corresponded with someone about how a lathe tool is used. He read this entire thread and was still confused about one really basic issue and I am embarrassed that I didn't make it clear enough for him. If it wasn't clear to him then it is likely not clear to someone else, too, and I apologize.

He got that the tool is oriented roughly perpendicular to the work when roughing, and that you can turn it slightly toward the chuck to reduce chatter. He also got turning it more toward the tail stock for sizing and finishing. What he didn't get was how to orient the tool to size or finish when the work had a shoulder ... DUH!! This is where I screwed up and didn't make it crystal clear.

When you size or finish a work piece with adequate length sticking out of the chuck, you will have the best result when you turn the tool toward the tail stock. This allows you to cut with the side cutting edge and the corner of the nose radius to produce fine cuts with a good finish. However, when turning into a shoulder you have to turn the tip of the tool well towards the chuck so that the tool is oriented exactly as it is for a facing cut. In this position, the sizing and finish on the long axis of the work is accomplished with the end cutting edge and the corner of the nose radius, while the same function is accomplished on the shoulder (as you face out) with the side cutting edge and the nose radius.

Like all finishing cuts, depths of cut should be on the lighter side because the end cutting edge, when used like this, will increase radial cutting forces because more of the edge is in contact with the work. Lighter cuts will reduce the deflection and your accuracy and fine finish should be the result. It may also help to increase speed (lowers cutting forces) and slow the feed when a fine finish is needed.

I thought I made this clear before but I went back and read this entire thread (!!) and he was right - I didn't make it clear. I apologize to all the new guys who were confused by this because much of our work on the lathe involves turning into a shoulder and you sort of gotta' know this stuff.

This further emphasizes the importance of the end cutting edge and back rake and how they impact on finishes. Every angle on the tool matters.
 
Hones or sharpening stones. There is a bewildering number of choices. So far I have been using my big knife sharpening stone. Not the easiest to use.
First question is grit. I would imagine a fairly fine grit. But how fine? Suitable range?
Second question type of stone???? Diamond?
Third question I'll call style and size. Something with a handle? Triangular? Flat? Round? How long? Do you need an assortment?

What have you guys who know what you are doing found to work well?
 
mickri said:
Hones or sharpening stones. There is a bewildering number of choices. So far I have been using my big knife sharpening stone. Not the easiest to use.
First question is grit. I would imagine a fairly fine grit. But how fine? Suitable range?
Second question type of stone???? Diamond?
Third question I'll call style and size. Something with a handle? Triangular? Flat? Round? How long? Do you need an assortment?

What have you guys who know what you are doing found to work well?
Click to expand...


I've been using these cards, I think it was @mikey that recommended them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006IIO3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use all 3 grits, the coarse to remove the grinding marks and/or burrs and radius the nose, the other two to clean up and sharpen. They work great, are easy to use, and are cheap. I lay them down on the grinder rest plate, though just about anywhere will do.
 
So, I was trying out some magnetic unkonwnium on the lathe today. The first go with HSS I ran way too fast and ate the tip of the tool. I cleaned it up and it cuts decent now, but could it be better?

On the left, my 15 degree square tool taking a light cut, 0.004 at 130 RPM.

On the right, DCMT carbide insert taking 0.020 at 350 RPM. Same feed, 0.0015/rev.

Both used tap magic for cutting fluid. Chips came off straw color to blue. At 0.030 the carbide was making longer stringy chips, more blue.

It looks a bit like the pics of 1018 earlier in the thread. Material is about 2.75" diameter.

I don't need a perfect finish on this stuff, and there's nothing wrong with using the carbide if it works better. But perhaps I can learn something if someone has suggestions for angles or a different tool geometry they think might be a better choice.

IMG_20181013_131219.jpg
 
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