Models for grinding HSS Lathe Tools

One thing I have not found ...so far ...what about cutoff/parting tools? I have not found anything on sharpening them here ....

What kind of parting tool are you referring to, Richard? If it is the P or T-type, then it just has a relief angle below the tip. Standard angle is 5 to 10 degrees; I use 7 degrees. The easiest way to do that is to use a protractor and ink a line at 7 degrees as shown below:

P-type.jpg

When viewed from the top of the tool, the face should be straight across the front. The easiest way to grind it is to place the blade into the tool holder with just enough blade extension to allow you to grind without hitting the tool holder. Hold onto the tool holder and grind to the line.

If you're talking about grinding a tool from a square bit, I don't do this anymore. They are cumbersome to grind and don't work anywhere near as well as a P-type blade.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Z2V
Being a total newbie I probably stepped in it. I really don't know what type of parting tool I was asking about ....just the knowledge that at some point you are going to want to cut or part something you have turned. So is it that we are to just purchase a parting tool ...and then keep it sharp from your detail above? And not try to create one from scratch? Sorry for being so dumb here ...I am moving as fast as my little mind can.
 
Absolutely not dumb; it is, in fact, a valid question. Parting is something we all need to do and it should be a simple, routine job. You turn the part, determine where you want to cut it off and then feed a parting blade into the work to separate it from the stock that is held in the chuck. Sounds simple enough and it really is that simple when everything goes right. The problem is that for many guys, parting is a major PITA because of chatter and that chatter has many potential causes, only one of which is the tool itself. I'm not going to go into setting the lathe up for parting unless there is interest by the guys in this thread.

I will suggest you not attempt to grind a parting tool from scratch. A parting tool must have relief angles in front and on both sides and the side relief angles need to be the same or the tool will steer. It is much easier to just buy a tool and get on with your life. I highly recommend a P-type tool on your small lathe. You can also use carbide tools if you choose but a thin P-type blade will cut with lower cutting forces and is easier to use. P-type blades come in various widths, from 0.04" thick on up to 1/8".

P-type blades.jpg

Most of these blades are 1/2" tall. There are T-type blades as well and those are larger.

So, how do you choose one? The larger the work diameter, the larger the blade is supposed to be. This is not a hard and fast rule. For example, a P1-N is typically used for work up to about 3/4" OD. If the work is larger than that then you would step up to P1, which works up to about 1-1/4", and so on. This is when the blade is used with the cutting edge on top. However, if the tool is mounted upside down at the rear of the work then a thin blade can part much larger work pieces. I use a rear mounted parting tool on my Sherline lathe and a P1-N blade only 0.04" thick can part work up to 2" in diameter at very high speeds. So, choosing a blade depends on how you mount it and how large the work is.

If I were you, I would buy a decent P1 blade from AR Warner. There are many cheaper blades but the one from AR Warner is ground well and will last you for many years if you take care of it. I would also look into mounting the tool upside down and run the lathe in reverse to part; this will save you mucho grief. You can either make a tool holder or buy one from Eccentric Engineering: https://www.eccentricengineering.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=31&Itemid=45. Another option is to make a rear mounted parting tool holder but your cross slide must have threaded holes or T-slots to allow you to mount it; this is the best way I've found to use a parting tool.

Hope this helps.
 
Always soooo helpful ...thank you Mikey. How about keeping these purchased tools sharp? Any advice on that?

This begs another question ...what about boring bars? Buy them pre-made as well? If I am going to place an order and pay shipping I might as well pack the box and empty the wallet.

Thanks, Richard
 
  • Like
Reactions: Z2V
A P-type blade stays sharp for some time if it is used properly. Grinding the primary 7 degree relief up front will leave a burr on top of the tool. Use an extra-fine diamond or bench stone and lay the top of the blade flat on the stone. Draw back lightly a few times and that will knock the burr off, leaving a razor-sharp edge on the tool.

Boring and boring bars is a HUGE discussion. It is probably the single most complicated lathe operation there is and the bars you choose and the way you use them matters. Here I am talking about boring a precise hole to tight tolerances with control, not a hole in a model canon. Everything, from the bar size and material the bar is made from to the geometry of the bar and insert to the nose radius of the tip matters. That kind of boring needs to come later. For now, I recommend you buy a cheap Chinese boring bar set like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007TZZF...be84-d9bc618b97e4&ie=UTF8&qid=1532453152&sr=1

These cheap bars will let you get your feet wet for not much money. You will need to hone them with a diamond stone before use but they actually do work pretty well for such a cheap set. The linked set has a 1/2" shank and you may need an adapter for your QCTP: https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1700

You can also buy cheap Chinese inserted carbide bars but the smallest of these are usually around 3/8" OD so they won't allow you to bore small holes. I would buy the cheap brazed carbide set I linked above. They will teach you a lot about boring.
 
The tool models are on the way to me ...now for some reason locally I am only finding 3/8 low carbon steel keystock that is zinc plated ...have not found plain. Will this matter in trying to learn to create these tools?
 
No, they grind the same. Not healthy to breath zinc particles, though, so use a fan and mask.
 
No worries ...actually I use a shop vac with my grinders dust port ...and a mask. Although I continue to look for just plain low carbon locally...
 
Ok ...let's see if I am a halfway decent student here. I got the models this past weekend and have spent time practicing and studying against the models. It is a challenge to actually mimic those models with my grinder ...especially that rake angle but please give me your critique if I am on the right track and suggestions on how to improve. Thanks Richard

Turning tool with the model:

Turning tool 4.jpg


Turning tool 1.jpg

Turning tool 2.jpg

Turning tool 3.jpg

Facing tool with the model:

Facing tool 1.jpg


Facing tool 2.jpg

Facing tool 3.jpg

Facing tool 4.jpg

Threading tool

Threading tool 1.jpg

Threading tool 2.jpg

Threading tool 1.jpgThreading tool 2.jpgThreading tool 4.jpg

Facing tool 1.jpg

Facing tool 3.jpg

Facing tool 3.jpg
 
Last edited:
Trying to figure out the posting pictures here too ...so excuse the extra attachments
 
Back
Top