Low-profile saw arbor — a use for a rotary broach!

[woodchucker]

My plan was to eliminate the small ring on the cap that supports the flange. The ring is the locating diameter less the counterbore diameter. The solution was to leave it solid and have a much larger thread on the other end.

yep, and the nice thing about yours is you can just push on the socket head screw to separate the parts. Mine requires pulling on the saw to unseat it. I am happy with my conventional arbor.

 

[Larry$]

I had made one like Woodchucker's quite a few years ago. Worked fine.... until I screwed up and jammed a blade. SHCS locked tight. The only part I salvaged was the arbor. Would anti-seize have saved me?

 

[woodchucker]

I had made one like Woodchucker's quite a few years ago. Worked fine.... until I screwed up and jammed a blade. SHCS locked tight. The only part I salvaged was the arbor. Would anti-seize have saved me?

can't say ..
You could not loosen the screw? impact driver? Although I find that most of the time I need an impact gun. Do you have flats on the holder?

 

[Larry$]

Do you have flats on the holder?

Yes. I have a Makita impact driver that usually works very well but it would not budge the SHCS.
Since I had already broken the slitting saw, I broke the remainder off and cut the dinged up cap away on the mill using a carbide end mill. There was still some of the saw blade that had to be milled away. I put the head of the cap screw in the vice and used the flats of the arbor to turn it off. Hard to believe how tight those threads could be and still not strip! I did run a tap in to clean them back up. It was also a demonstration of how brittle the slitting saws are. Polish made.

 

[Parlo]

Yes. I have a Makita impact driver that usually works very well but it would not budge the SHCS.
Since I had already broken the slitting saw, I broke the remainder off and cut the dinged up cap away on the mill using a carbide end mill. There was still some of the saw blade that had to be milled away. I put the head of the cap screw in the vice and used the flats of the arbor to turn it off. Hard to believe how tight those threads could be and still not strip! I did run a tap in to clean them back up. It was also a demonstration of how brittle the slitting saws are. Polish made.

I guess this reinforces the need to be able to clamp the slitting saw so tightly initially that it can't spin.

 

[Larry$]

I guess this reinforces the need to be able to clamp the slitting saw so tightly initially that it can't spin.

Or the better alternative, use keyed saws and arbors.

 

[bulgie]

Speaking of Low Profile, you won't get any lower than a Peterson Flush Arbor. There's nothing below the wheel cutter or saw.





Dunno if you can make it out in the pics, but the SHCS only pushes the inner sleeve further up the taper on the arbor, causing it to expand and push outward on the saw. This takes out any clearance that migh exist between the saw and the arbor, for best concentricity. The twist is taken by the key, so it's not possible for slipping to tighten it further. it always loosens as easily after use.

Mine is '70s vintage but they're still made, by a different manu now. A bit pricey, I wouldn't buy it new, but I got mine used on ebay, cheap because it was missing a part. Seller apparently didn't know you can still get all the parts for it. I have sleeves for 1" and 1-1/4" saws, and lots of spacers in various thicknesses. You need a spacer stack that puts the saw right at the bottom of the arbor, for it to be truly flush.

Mine is R-8 obviously, but I don't think they make that anymore except as a special order. I think a 3/4" straight shank is the default now, though you can also special order Cat40 or other shanks.