Info needed for installing/setting up pm940m

what dial and dial test indicator and machinist square should i buy " dimensions i guess to check the 20 inch Z travel while tramming". they had the thick ones on some videos i watched, not that i know if they are bad or good :p

I mean, what can get me by In order for me to start doing some work on the milling machine. Nothing high precision at the moment just cleaning up 3d prints/casts in PLA/aluminum. And maybe later when i would have broken a few of the dials etc to get the good ones.

I know, i do not know what should i do at this point specifically, and I am looking for knowledge and experience.
I like Accusize, they are out of Canada and their tools are reasonable quality for a reasonable price.
 
it looks i will have to wait till my next paycheck to get that list.

side note:

I found this one Amazon: Accusize Industrial Tools Agd2 Style 0-0.05'' by 0.0001'' Dial Indicator with Lug Back, P900-S097

on specs it look like the expensive one
Will try to loan the tools for checking the milling machine when it comes and see how it looks. If not will try to tramm it. And little by little get the tools on the pdf and from the accusize they seemed to have a lot of reviews too.


Thanks a lot guys for you immense help.. All of you spared your time to help me out. I will do the same if you ever need my help.

Tim
 
I got the PM940M back in June. You will want to tighten EVERYTHING! Most of the fasteners were slightly over finger tight, even the 4 column bolts to the base (you will need to get a 12mm allen wrench to tighten them)

The body is slathered in Bondo, so fair warning, you are going to chip off some of it down to the casting around the fasteners.

You will also want to buy a few additional gib lock handles (Amazon link). You will break the X axis ones at some point (the handle gets caught on the base when moving the Y in and out - this will make sense when you see it.

When tramming the head, do it with the Z column axis gibs locked. This will be when you want the most accuracy and rigidity in cuts that you make. Once you have it done, then check it again with the gib lock loose and see where it lands. You will find the sweet spot with the gib lock that is repeatable.

The difference for mine between tight and loose for raising and lowering the head was .0015 in Z and .005 in Y (it would shift the head to the right as you are facing it). You will learn when to lock it in, and what to expect. A lot of stuff that I have done I need to raise the head up to change tooling for the same part, so it can be nerve racking loosing that zero and not knowing if you are back on when you lower the head back down, or putting the indicator back on the quill again to zero it back in again.
 
Hi guys, I ordered the pm940m
Unless there is a very good reason to get the 940M I would ask PM if they can change your order to the 940V. I know it costs a little more but I suspect this is because of the VFD and maybe it is better made? Eitherway, you should be able to get a lot of use out of either machine.

I have the PM940M-VS-CNC. This was a short lived version a few years back and is no longer available. Since that time they have made a few changes to the PM940M, but it appears to basically be the same as mine. (The most obvious difference is that the x, y, z crank handles are different.) The M version is gear driven while the V version is belt driven. My VS (variable speed) is VFD powered, but still has a gear box similar to the PM940M you selected. My gear box only has a high and low setting and with the VFD it goes from ~ 90-1000 rpm and from ~ 1000-3200 rpm. Hence, my machine probably has a little less weight in gears. My machine does NOT have the power down feed as it has all three directions of controlled motion via the CNC . Anyway, power down feed on the M or V will probably add weight. Of course filling the head gear box with oil also adds weight. Long story short, I think the geared head is too heavy for the machine. The PM940V is has a lighter weight head, has variable speed via a VFD, and may have different spindle bearings as the top speed (5000 rpm vs 2000) is faster. Having a higher top speed is a very real positive feature. Over all, with motor and no tooling I have estimated that 940M head weights between 250 and 300 lbs.

The best I can tell there are two kinds of knod. One is just alignment, is the head perpendicular to the table. This you can shim away assuming that the machine does not bend in use. The second is more dynamic and is what @Sticks seemed to be referring to. If you loosen the clamps the head tilts, knods. As he notes this is related to the gib being tight enough. To tight though and you cannot lift or lower the head. Likewise it tilts differently if you are using the crank to lift the head as oppose to lowering the head. To make this more repeatable you need to always set the final height by approaching it from the same direction, i.e. crank the head up above and lower it back to the final position. So this knod has a lot to do with this head weight. You can tighten the gib up so that a lot of the knod goes away, but on my machine it seems that this gib tightness is a function of the position of the head along the ways. That is, the knod is sensitive to where it is positioned along the z-axis. I think this is because the separation in the ways actually changes, the ways flex (bends together such that the way width varies differently as a function of z-position). The z-axis ball screw bearing is attached to the head via an arm which extends between the ways to clamp to the lead screw. Hence, there is a gab between the ways extending from near the bottom to near the top. You can see this gab in the second photo of the induction heating picture on the PM web site: https://www.precisionmatthews.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Z-Axis-Way-Hardening.jpg But the two halves of the way rails are solid at the top and the bottom of the Z positions as the lead screw arm does not travel there. So no way flexing at the top and the bottom, but way flexing in between and the most flexing seems to occur at the center position in Z. This position is right where you are more probable to be operating. Since the head essentially hangs on these ways it bends the two halves together. So the gib is effectively loosened. If the head weights less there is less flexing! As @Sticks noted this does not have to be very much. A couple of thousands makes a big difference in the effective gib tightness. Folks with the 940V do not seem to have as much a problem with this as those who get the 940M. On the other hand, perhaps the manufacturer has beefed this structure up since I purchased my machine, but the pic looks similar to mine. The flexing would be a strong function of the weight as well as the thickness of the walls of the way box.

By the way, I never use the Z-axis locks. In order for them to hold the head in position, the two lock bolts have to really bear down on the gib. When I removed the gib to study it I found that these bolts had left large dig marks into the back of the gib and appear to have bent it even thought it is cast iron. (maybe it was bend into a C shape at the factory before I got it.). Anyway, my CNC motor holds the z-axis position while I am milling and when I power it down I just use some blocks to support the head and keep its weight from turning the stepper motor/lead screw and falling.

A couple of other things, I have no experience with the V, but I think that the geared version is probably noisier. The fan on the motor is very loud so the gear noise maybe unimportant. @Sticks is right, check the tightness of everything, but remember the cast iron that is uses is a very porous sandy like material and it is easy to strip the bolt hole threads. This is especially true for the smaller bolt holes. The nut at the bottom end of the z-axis lead screw on mine and a couple of other folks machines actually fell off. The machine will run without it, but this nut holds the end bearings for the lead screw in place. I actually ran my CNC machine before I took it off the pallet. When I lift it from the pallet I found the nut, washers, and the nut locking cover laying on the pallet. Initially, I had no idea where it had come from!

Dave L.
 
I got the PM940M back in June. You will want to tighten EVERYTHING! Most of the fasteners were slightly over finger tight, even the 4 column bolts to the base (you will need to get a 12mm allen wrench to tighten them)

The body is slathered in Bondo, so fair warning, you are going to chip off some of it down to the casting around the fasteners.

You will also want to buy a few additional gib lock handles (Amazon link). You will break the X axis ones at some point (the handle gets caught on the base when moving the Y in and out - this will make sense when you see it.

When tramming the head, do it with the Z column axis gibs locked. This will be when you want the most accuracy and rigidity in cuts that you make. Once you have it done, then check it again with the gib lock loose and see where it lands. You will find the sweet spot with the gib lock that is repeatable.

The difference for mine between tight and loose for raising and lowering the head was .0015 in Z and .005 in Y (it would shift the head to the right as you are facing it). You will learn when to lock it in, and what to expect. A lot of stuff that I have done I need to raise the head up to change tooling for the same part, so it can be nerve racking loosing that zero and not knowing if you are back on when you lower the head back down, or putting the indicator back on the quill again to zero it back in again.
Thank you so much for your help, did you have any pics of what you retightened. I am new and this will be my first machine.
 
Unless there is a very good reason to get the 940M I would ask PM if they can change your order to the 940V. I know it costs a little more but I suspect this is because of the VFD and maybe it is better made? Eitherway, you should be able to get a lot of use out of either machine.

I have the PM940M-VS-CNC. This was a short lived version a few years back and is no longer available. Since that time they have made a few changes to the PM940M, but it appears to basically be the same as mine. (The most obvious difference is that the x, y, z crank handles are different.) The M version is gear driven while the V version is belt driven. My VS (variable speed) is VFD powered, but still has a gear box similar to the PM940M you selected. My gear box only has a high and low setting and with the VFD it goes from ~ 90-1000 rpm and from ~ 1000-3200 rpm. Hence, my machine probably has a little less weight in gears. My machine does NOT have the power down feed as it has all three directions of controlled motion via the CNC . Anyway, power down feed on the M or V will probably add weight. Of course filling the head gear box with oil also adds weight. Long story short, I think the geared head is too heavy for the machine. The PM940V is has a lighter weight head, has variable speed via a VFD, and may have different spindle bearings as the top speed (5000 rpm vs 2000) is faster. Having a higher top speed is a very real positive feature. Over all, with motor and no tooling I have estimated that 940M head weights between 250 and 300 lbs.

The best I can tell there are two kinds of knod. One is just alignment, is the head perpendicular to the table. This you can shim away assuming that the machine does not bend in use. The second is more dynamic and is what @Sticks seemed to be referring to. If you loosen the clamps the head tilts, knods. As he notes this is related to the gib being tight enough. To tight though and you cannot lift or lower the head. Likewise it tilts differently if you are using the crank to lift the head as oppose to lowering the head. To make this more repeatable you need to always set the final height by approaching it from the same direction, i.e. crank the head up above and lower it back to the final position. So this knod has a lot to do with this head weight. You can tighten the gib up so that a lot of the knod goes away, but on my machine it seems that this gib tightness is a function of the position of the head along the ways. That is, the knod is sensitive to where it is positioned along the z-axis. I think this is because the separation in the ways actually changes, the ways flex (bends together such that the way width varies differently as a function of z-position). The z-axis ball screw bearing is attached to the head via an arm which extends between the ways to clamp to the lead screw. Hence, there is a gab between the ways extending from near the bottom to near the top. You can see this gab in the second photo of the induction heating picture on the PM web site: https://www.precisionmatthews.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Z-Axis-Way-Hardening.jpg But the two halves of the way rails are solid at the top and the bottom of the Z positions as the lead screw arm does not travel there. So no way flexing at the top and the bottom, but way flexing in between and the most flexing seems to occur at the center position in Z. This position is right where you are more probable to be operating. Since the head essentially hangs on these ways it bends the two halves together. So the gib is effectively loosened. If the head weights less there is less flexing! As @Sticks noted this does not have to be very much. A couple of thousands makes a big difference in the effective gib tightness. Folks with the 940V do not seem to have as much a problem with this as those who get the 940M. On the other hand, perhaps the manufacturer has beefed this structure up since I purchased my machine, but the pic looks similar to mine. The flexing would be a strong function of the weight as well as the thickness of the walls of the way box.

By the way, I never use the Z-axis locks. In order for them to hold the head in position, the two lock bolts have to really bear down on the gib. When I removed the gib to study it I found that these bolts had left large dig marks into the back of the gib and appear to have bent it even thought it is cast iron. (maybe it was bend into a C shape at the factory before I got it.). Anyway, my CNC motor holds the z-axis position while I am milling and when I power it down I just use some blocks to support the head and keep its weight from turning the stepper motor/lead screw and falling.

A couple of other things, I have no experience with the V, but I think that the geared version is probably noisier. The fan on the motor is very loud so the gear noise maybe unimportant. @Sticks is right, check the tightness of everything, but remember the cast iron that is uses is a very porous sandy like material and it is easy to strip the bolt hole threads. This is especially true for the smaller bolt holes. The nut at the bottom end of the z-axis lead screw on mine and a couple of other folks machines actually fell off. The machine will run without it, but this nut holds the end bearings for the lead screw in place. I actually ran my CNC machine before I took it off the pallet. When I lift it from the pallet I found the nut, washers, and the nut locking cover laying on the pallet. Initially, I had no idea where it had come from!

Dave L.
It’s 1000$ more. I am overextended now . Will stick to this one. Hopefully maybe later can mod this one for variabel speed. Or sell this one and get a better one
 
It’s 1000$ more. I am overextended now . Will stick to this one. Hopefully maybe later can mod this one for variabel speed. Or sell this one and get a better one
I got a used 1030v from an old gentleman here and it needs some parts now. During preparation for loading it fell down and not running now and we broke the cross feed handle bolt Z1260 while pushing to get it out. It snapped in a blink of an eye going through the door. The start button got misaligned when it fell so it might be broken inside. Did not have time to open it up. I should have brought my engine crane with me as afterthought. Other then that it looks good.

But this is why I am overextend now on the money.

=Tim
 
I got the PM940M back in June. You will want to tighten EVERYTHING! Most of the fasteners were slightly over finger tight, even the 4 column bolts to the base (you will need to get a 12mm allen wrench to tighten them)

The body is slathered in Bondo, so fair warning, you are going to chip off some of it down to the casting around the fasteners.

You will also want to buy a few additional gib lock handles (Amazon link). You will break the X axis ones at some point (the handle gets caught on the base when moving the Y in and out - this will make sense when you see it.

When tramming the head, do it with the Z column axis gibs locked. This will be when you want the most accuracy and rigidity in cuts that you make. Once you have it done, then check it again with the gib lock loose and see where it lands. You will find the sweet spot with the gib lock that is repeatable.

The difference for mine between tight and loose for raising and lowering the head was .0015 in Z and .005 in Y (it would shift the head to the right as you are facing it). You will learn when to lock it in, and what to expect. A lot of stuff that I have done I need to raise the head up to change tooling for the same part, so it can be nerve racking loosing that zero and not knowing if you are back on when you lower the head back down, or putting the indicator back on the quill again to zero it back in again.
I had to adjust my gibs also but not too many issues with the bolt being loose on my mill. My lathe was another animal, I was having issues with the head stock and discovered 3 of the 4 bolts were loose.... I built a set of tools to tram my head with using threaded jack screws to avoid beating on it with a dead blow hammer, every time I tried to tam it I would have it perfect and tightening the 3 bolts would shift it, with my tool I can let out on one side and tighten the other until I have it locked where I want it then torque the 3 head bolts without messing it up and then remove the tools. You are correct, lots of bondo; but mine is very rigid and does everything I ask of it accurately. I have the PM940V-PDF, dispite its flaws I find it to be a good machine, worth what I gave for it.

Additional comment: I removed the handles on the X-axis locks, if I need to lock them I simply use a small wrench because the handles are in the way of everything. The fan on the motor is noisy but not so much as the prevent a casual conversation at regular voice levels from being carried on and that is the only thing noisy about mine.
 
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But this is why I am overextend now on the money.
I understand $. Wow, sounds like you need to treat the 1030v with a little more TLC in the future! PM carries a lot of spare parts. They maybe able to help you with the broken pieces.

I wrote an Excel workbook/spread sheet which allows one to figure out what gear box and external gears to use on my lathe to achieve a desired TPI value. I originally did this for my 1440GT, but have extended this for a number of lathe models. I posted it. I did not do one specifically for the 1030v yet, but it is so similar it would not be a problem to do so. I can fix this up for you when and if you want. You can find some of this info at my posting:
Re: Improved Version: TPI, Feeds, X-Feeds: Generalized Lathe TPI Excel file: "TPI_ManyLathesRev1 N502_1630"
I did recently modify the workbook to include the PM1130V and shared it with a HM user, but since I do not have the lathe and so cannot be sure which gears physically fit together I am waiting to hear back from him before I post it with the others. I think is is very similar to your 1030V.
You can see the draft of the 1130V version at:
I made a pass at building a spread sheet for the PM1130V
In the first posting I provided macros which will step through every possible gear arrangement and put all of the TPI results into a table. Then there is other macros that let you search the table in various ways to obtain a particular TPI exact or approximate value. You may find that there are several possible gear arrangements to get a given TPI value. The sheet I posted for the 1130V does not have the macros built into it but it is easy to added them. There is a ReadMe tab in the work book explaining things.


By the way, when the time comes, you can get the VFD that PM currently puts into their 940V. The PM web site lists it as : "Current VFD Model used is a Delta VFD, Model # VFD015E21A" Looks like it is about $325 but there will be a few other parts you might need.

They also used a Delta in my 940M and has not given me any problems. I cannot recall the model number of mine at the moment. Its documentation is limited, but pretty simple to hook up.

Good luck with everything.
 
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