Info needed for installing/setting up pm940m

tim81 said:
I found these while search Amazon:
Precision Brand Carbon Steel 1008 Shim Stock Assortment, Full Hard Temper, AISI 1008/AISI 1010, ASTM A109 for Chemistry, 0.001", 0.002", 0.003", 0.005" Thick, 6" Width, 50" Length (Pack of 4) https://a.co/d/gpJlfSi
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The nod on my PM940V was good, the heads side to side required work. if your nod is out you'll need shims, otherwise you'll be able to adjust with head movement.
 
verbotenwhisky said:
The nod on my PM940V was good, the heads side to side required work. if your nod is out you'll need shims, otherwise you'll be able to adjust with head movement.
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You mean the back front “y axis”was ok but side to side on the x axis it needed adjustments?

Sorry for my poor vocabulary
 
verbotenwhisky said:
The nod on my PM940V was good, the heads side to side required work. if your nod is out you'll need shims, otherwise you'll be able to adjust with head movement.
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Curious to know if you checked that the quill alignment was the same as the head moving up/down in both X and Y.
 
tim81 said:
You mean the back front “y axis”was ok but side to side on the x axis it needed adjustments?

Sorry for my poor vocabulary
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That is correct, your mil is basically the same machine I have structurally, the square column is machined and installed solid, no adjustment; so unlike a Bridgeport where you can rock the head fore and aft (i.e. the nod) these have no movement in that direction which is where the discussion of shim's comes in. If the for aft (y axis) direction needs to be trammed you'll have to shim it. in the rotational direction (the x azis) there are 3 bolts you need to loosen and the head will rotate, if you loosen those too much you'll never get it trammed because the head is heavy and the looser those bolt are the more it will lean out and the farther it will move as you tighten them back up. I made a set of tools that connect to either side which allow me to use 2 screws on either side to adjust this because a dead blow hammer isn't a precision instrument.
 
davidpbest said:
Curious to know if you checked that the quill alignment was the same as the head moving up/down in both X and Y.
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Yes sir, I was concerned about it being machined and installed correctly and is checked out to be within my abilities to measure. My Y is out less that .0005 in 12" with the quill fully extended and pretty much the same fully retracted, the X is about the same, the DTI just does move off the line....
 
Let’s hope my mill will be as good as yours. I got a few feeler gauges to use as temp shims if need. What arm and dial indicator did you use. What should I get for this process. Also for the square should I get a stone square 3” or something.

I have seen videos using that one.
 
tim81 said:
Let’s hope my mill will be as good as yours. I got a few feeler gauges to use as temp shims if need. What arm and dial indicator did you use. What should I get for this process. Also for the square should I get a stone square 3” or something.

I have seen videos using that one.
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I used a machinist square I picked up from the local machinist supply. I started off with an arm I made and a dial test indicator. I have purchased an STI tramming set with dual gauges which I use to check it ever so often.
 
what dial and dial test indicator and machinist square should i buy " dimensions i guess to check the 20 inch Z travel while tramming". they had the thick ones on some videos i watched, not that i know if they are bad or good :p

I mean, what can get me by In order for me to start doing some work on the milling machine. Nothing high precision at the moment just cleaning up 3d prints/casts in PLA/aluminum. And maybe later when i would have broken a few of the dials etc to get the good ones.

I know, i do not know what should i do at this point specifically, and I am looking for knowledge and experience.

Tim
 
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tim81 said:
what dial and dial test indicator and machinist square should i buy " dimensions i guess to check the 20 inch Z travel while tramming". they had the thick ones on some videos i watched, not that i know if they are bad or good :p

I mean, what can get me by In order for me to start doing some work on the milling machine. Nothing high precision at the moment just cleaning up 3d prints/casts in PLA/aluminum. And maybe later when i would have broken a few of the dials etc to get the good ones.

I know, i do not know what should i do at this point specifically, and I am looking for knowledge and experience.

Tim
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If you want a square with a thicker blade (easier to indicate to) and a ledge on the base so it will stand upright without clamps/magnets, then the following is the best value precision unit I have found. You can order it from Europe and won't pay VAT, but you will pay shipping. This has a 15" long leg:


If you wanted more precision, thick, no ledge, then this is the one I have and can recommend:

 
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