I'm Sick Of Spring Loaded Center Punches

[neshkoro]

Any of you folks ever use a wiggler? They work well in a mill in a drill chuck.
They are great for picking up scribed lines. Sometimes if you mis-align the center punch mark from the scribed holes the drill or center drill will walk off location.

Bill

 

[chips&more]

When you like them, I guess you can’t have too many.

 

[RJSakowski]

When you like them, I guess you can’t have too many.

And if they're not punching deep enough, you can always whack them with a hammer.

 

[Tony Wells]

I have a General and a Starrett, but I guess they are too old to get replacement tips for. I have bought the supposedly correct tip, but the threads are wrong. I like them for speed, but not so much for accuracy. I have an optical setup, which is very good, unless you are working on stainless. I'll admit that I rely mostly on the DRO on the mill most of the time, and just a prick punch and soft touch to set the mark when I have to layout something. After the prick mark, a regular center punch is used.

 

[kd4gij]

This is a newb question for sure, but perhaps this is the place to ask it.

How are you guys locating on your punch dimple once the piece is on the mill table? I can get pretty close by using a punch then 'eyeballing' with my spotting drills, but there has to be an objective approach to locate over the dimple.

Is that what the conical 'finders' are for? Anyone have a link to a video showing how they work?

I have a couple of old dull taps that have a sharp point on the end that is what I use most of the time.

A quick tip: The taps that have a point on the tip make good center punches once they get to dull to gut threads.

 

[RJSakowski]

I have a couple of old dull taps that have a sharp point on the end that is what I use most of the time.

A quick tip: The taps that have a point on the tip make good center punches once they get to dull to gut threads.

If you are going to strike them, make sure you heat the struck end to a red heat to draw the temper. I have made punches and miniature chisels from pulley taps. They last much longer than the HC tools.

Bob

 

[kd4gij]

I just smack them with a brass hammer.

Another tip I learned years ago, when drilling lay out marks use a small spotting drill and with it spinning lightly tap the work. It will show where you are at and you can adjust till you are right on.

 

[coolidge]

I'll admit that I rely mostly on the DRO on the mill most of the time

This is where I am heading, DRO BOOM centered. Obviously folks I am talking about holes that need to be precisely located.

 

[RJSakowski]

This is where I am heading, DRO BOOM centered. Obviously folks I am talking about holes that need to be precisely located.

DRO's are nice. I use mine by choice all the time. However, there are times when a DRO won't help you; e.g. drilling a hole in an existing casting. Being able to accurately locate and center punch a hole is a good skill to have.

 

[uncle harry]

Any of you folks ever use a wiggler? They work well in a mill in a drill chuck.
They are great for picking up scribed lines. Sometimes if you mis-align the center punch mark from the scribed holes the drill or center drill will walk off location.

Bill

Yes, the wiggler when contacted as the spindle is rotating at high speed will be concentric with the spindle. After that the alignment is done by eye, optically enhanced for my tired vision.