Compression spring info

When I first moved to Madison in the sixties, there was an old fashioned hardware store called Wolf Kubly & Hirsig located across the street from the state capitol. https://www.wisconsinhistory.org/Records/Image/IM16601 The store is long since gone.

In the back of the store, they sold piano wire in all sizes in 1 lb. boxes. As I recall, they were around $2 a box. I bought two boxes and still have most of that wire. That last time that I bought wire for making springs, it was from a hobby shop and it was sold in 3 ft. lengths. My uncle worked for the Gibson Division of Associated Springs in Mattoon, IL and gave me some coils of spring wire along with some shorter straight sections of heavier wire.

I save each and every spring that I encounter and more often that not, one from my collection can be adapted to a project. I have also repurposed old springs by placing them on a mandrel and uncoiling them for use for rewinding a spring to suit my particular needs. Larger diameter springs are a better source for this application. If the wire is rusted, it should be cleaned before winding as the spring will tend to break at a rusted point.

I usually wind springs as close coil, stretching them afterward to achieve my desired coil spacing. Now that I have a lathe with an ELS and a variable speed motor that can effectively be dialed down to 0 RPM, it is possible to accurately wind springs with variable spaced coils.

Another approach to winding a spring is to push the spring wire against an angled block. It is a commonly used method in spring manufacturing and spring diameter can be varied by a simple movement of the block. I haven't done this to make a working spring but I did try this with some solder and does make a nice coil. The big issue would be getting a good enough purchase on the wire to be able to push it well enough to deform it. What always comes to mind was an old Reader's Digest quote when the interviewer asked some grizzled old sergeant why he led his platoon into the thick of the battle. His reply was, "Did you ever try to push a string?". A possible way would be a mechanism similar to what is used to feed wire in a MIG welder.
 
you're telling me it's ok to unwind a spring and rewind it to a different size?
Really. I could use that garden hose coil that's in the pic to make my spring? I did stretch it out because it had a lot of non active coils.

edit: How do I unwind it so it can be re-used? Do I need to straighten it, run it against a bearing, or multiple bearings?
 
Well I couldn't wait. I unwound it mostly. It's very rough now. I'll probably have to run sandpaper the length of it, to eliminate any sharp cuts. I just pulled it while on a mandrel. Vise grips on one end and pulled. It's got a curl to it. Not sure how to clean it up yet.
 
When I first moved to Madison in the sixties, there was an old fashioned hardware store called Wolf Kubly & Hirsig located across the street from the state capitol. https://www.wisconsinhistory.org/Records/Image/IM16601 The store is long since gone.

In the back of the store, they sold piano wire in all sizes in 1 lb. boxes. As I recall, they were around $2 a box. I bought two boxes and still have most of that wire. That last time that I bought wire for making springs, it was from a hobby shop and it was sold in 3 ft. lengths. My uncle worked for the Gibson Division of Associated Springs in Mattoon, IL and gave me some coils of spring wire along with some shorter straight sections of heavier wire.

I save each and every spring that I encounter and more often that not, one from my collection can be adapted to a project. I have also repurposed old springs by placing them on a mandrel and uncoiling them for use for rewinding a spring to suit my particular needs. Larger diameter springs are a better source for this application. If the wire is rusted, it should be cleaned before winding as the spring will tend to break at a rusted point.

I usually wind springs as close coil, stretching them afterward to achieve my desired coil spacing. Now that I have a lathe with an ELS and a variable speed motor that can effectively be dialed down to 0 RPM, it is possible to accurately wind springs with variable spaced coils.

Another approach to winding a spring is to push the spring wire against an angled block. It is a commonly used method in spring manufacturing and spring diameter can be varied by a simple movement of the block. I haven't done this to make a working spring but I did try this with some solder and does make a nice coil. The big issue would be getting a good enough purchase on the wire to be able to push it well enough to deform it. What always comes to mind was an old Reader's Digest quote when the interviewer asked some grizzled old sergeant why he led his platoon into the thick of the battle. His reply was, "Did you ever try to push a string?". A possible way would be a mechanism similar to what is used to feed wire in a MIG welder.

I first moved to Madison in 1968 to finish up a mechanical engineering degree. At the time I lived on Doty St., so it wasn't much of a walk to Wolf Kubly. After a couple years I moved out to a suburb of Fitchburg to take advantage of the lower rent. I started going to Dorn True Value Hardware on Midvale Blvd. It was much the same as Wolf Kubly in that they specialized in repair parts not toasters and blenders.

It was my hardware store of choice until about 2012 when they started having problems with getting suppliers to keep the inventory up to date. I still went there for a few more years until they updated the beltline interchange. The new configuration made it almost impossible to get into the parking lot unless you came from the north.

Fortunately, they bought the Ace Hardware store in Verona and switched it over to a True Value. I go there regularly to buy everything from plumbing repair parts to lawn fertilizer. They're the newer version of the 1960's hardware store with more repair parts than kitchen supplies.

On Edit: I forgot to mention that the Dorn True Value in Verona still carry’s music wire. They have it in 3 and 5 packs of 3’ lengths for a little over $3.00 a pack.
 
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Well it took a few tries. I was using a 1" black pipe and I could not get a bend that would set on it.
I went smaller and almost got it, but it fell apart ...
The third times the charm.
I got a good set, not pretty, but very useable. It's amazing how much more difficult it is when you go large on the springs. I can do small easily. The large require the right wire diameter and the right mandrel. Too big and it won't take a set.
My only problem is due to not being able to see clearly, I cut into one of the loops with my dremel when cutting the ends clean. This is killing me not being able to see clearly, or walk without staggering at times.

PXL_20250102_203745127.jpg

PXL_20250102_205501355.jpgPXL_20250102_205506731.jpg
 
Unfortunately, the spring is not as strong as I would like. I looked at the Lee Spring site, and figured that I needed another .020 and from stainless which this is to music wire to get the strength I need. It'll work for now, but I would really like it to not drop at all.
 
Ouch. shipping from MC is higher than it's ever been. Must be drop shipped from far away.
I am trying to put the spring on a scale and push to get how many lbs it's holding. Damn digital scales for human weight is not registering.
I'll have to put together a test with some milk type bottles to get 8lbs from a gallon of water. figure out how much pressure it's holding.

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Not sure if you have seen THIS SITE. It is an online calculator that will give you the mandrel diameter needed based on coil Diameter, wire size and material. In other words, it calculates the spring back. I have used this a couple of times with perfect results.
 
Not sure if you have seen THIS SITE. It is an online calculator that will give you the mandrel diameter needed based on coil Diameter, wire size and material. In other words, it calculates the spring back. I have used this a couple of times with perfect results.
thanks. I didn't see it.

well I probably still need to redo it.
And I just finished working on the 2 parts for the splined shaft.
One is a washer to hold the spring centered on the bottom, the other is a high hat to bring the spring to the top of the nut. It just fits over the nut .and is held on by spring tension. Now I lose a minimal amount

PXL_20250103_022257730.jpgPXL_20250103_022304385.jpg of travel since the spring can compress around the hat mostly. And apparently the hat added some strength to the spring since it stiffens it at the top. It's not dropping now, and seems good without a boring head or drill chuck.
I know I keep beating a dead horse, but machining without clear vision is extremely difficult and frustrating. I could not tell when I came in contact with the piece.
 
@Boswell that calculator is good. That's close to what size mandrel I used.
I tried off the shelf things I had and the tubing I used was right around 1" so only a few thou from the calculated amount.

I'm going to see how it works with a boring head, fly cutter, drill chuck, and shell mill before I jump and make another since I have to order heavier wire.
 
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