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um... I'm at a loss for words.
Make sure your 2x12 has small knots, nothing big ..
Make sure your 2x12 has small knots, nothing big ..
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How about bowling alley wood for a lathe bench top? I was
- Thread starter Quick Cal
- Start date
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- Jan 15, 2016
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"Loss for words",,,,lol. Does that mean my idea is too stupid to comment or, or you really just don't have a good answer,,,lol.
By your handle I assume you're a wood worker? And you know the proper way to build a bench and I'm just way off,,,lol??
I have a bowling ball alley workbench. it was made up of 7' sections of maple bowling alley i bought, cut in half (to get +/-25" wide pieces), ran through a wide belt sander to flatten and plunked on sturdy cabinet bases. Finished with danish oil. i htink i have 28' of it? I use the bench every day, and its OK, but not great.
Most bowling alley is NOT glued together. its is nailed together on the side with approximately 12 gazillion hardened nails. they are hardened so they can penetrate the maple without pre-drilling. probably makes for fast for bowling alley construction. It is absolute hell to cut. i can't even remember how many blades i wrecked, but several for two seven foot cuts. Then you have the jagged chunks of nail on the edges to deal with somehow. My bowling alley also had ancient square head lag bolts angled down to the original sub-floor, but those you could find and remove prior to cutting.
The finish was really hard to get off even using an aggressive grit industrial wide belt sander. I wanted flat tops and it took a long time and lots of expensive sandpaper. if you don't care, just go over the old finish.
Since there is no glue these things are floooopppppyyyy. shockingly so. That made handling them and sanding them flat even more challenging. each 7' section was almost immovable by two rugged carpenter dudes. Cut in half it was still not something i'd want to repeat after 'maturing' a bit. Once installed they have been OK. if were going to do a lathe type bench where a rigidity is needed i would istall several large steel C-channels (like 1/4" 3x4 at leasts) below screwed into the bowling alley top through slots every 4th board or so. That would be a lot of work. But i bet heavy and rigid!
Honestly i loved the idea, but learned lots. I am just as happy with the old crappy flat panel doors as counter, and the shop grade plywood counter on the ends of the bowling alley bench where i ran out. Its a working shop, so everything gets beat on. the bowlig alley collects crud in the cracks 'cause its not glued together, which is more annoying than you would think. If i wanted a nice, heavy, solid wood bench i would not use it again. i'd find or buy new butcher block. Its readily available new for fairly similar cost. comes flat, and is solid, not nailed together.
Most bowling alley is NOT glued together. its is nailed together on the side with approximately 12 gazillion hardened nails. they are hardened so they can penetrate the maple without pre-drilling. probably makes for fast for bowling alley construction. It is absolute hell to cut. i can't even remember how many blades i wrecked, but several for two seven foot cuts. Then you have the jagged chunks of nail on the edges to deal with somehow. My bowling alley also had ancient square head lag bolts angled down to the original sub-floor, but those you could find and remove prior to cutting.
The finish was really hard to get off even using an aggressive grit industrial wide belt sander. I wanted flat tops and it took a long time and lots of expensive sandpaper. if you don't care, just go over the old finish.
Since there is no glue these things are floooopppppyyyy. shockingly so. That made handling them and sanding them flat even more challenging. each 7' section was almost immovable by two rugged carpenter dudes. Cut in half it was still not something i'd want to repeat after 'maturing' a bit. Once installed they have been OK. if were going to do a lathe type bench where a rigidity is needed i would istall several large steel C-channels (like 1/4" 3x4 at leasts) below screwed into the bowling alley top through slots every 4th board or so. That would be a lot of work. But i bet heavy and rigid!
Honestly i loved the idea, but learned lots. I am just as happy with the old crappy flat panel doors as counter, and the shop grade plywood counter on the ends of the bowling alley bench where i ran out. Its a working shop, so everything gets beat on. the bowlig alley collects crud in the cracks 'cause its not glued together, which is more annoying than you would think. If i wanted a nice, heavy, solid wood bench i would not use it again. i'd find or buy new butcher block. Its readily available new for fairly similar cost. comes flat, and is solid, not nailed together.
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I don't have a good answer for someone without clamps, saws, hand planes... Sorry. I've had those all my life.
2x12s on edgge doesn't seem great. Make a 'butcher block' out of remilled, but decent, framing lumber. those work ok, have friends who made them. Sort of a fun project if you like the DIY.
A cheaper alternative: two or more layers of advantec (not other chipboard because advantec is really flat and impervious to basically everything) screwed, or glued adn screwed together. top it with a nicer plywood/formica/veneer/vinyl or whatever. or not. Advantec is super stable, heavy, and flat. I've had several commercial staineless steel coutners made, and the steel fabricators use 2 layers of advantec and wrap the stainless right over that.
A cheaper alternative: two or more layers of advantec (not other chipboard because advantec is really flat and impervious to basically everything) screwed, or glued adn screwed together. top it with a nicer plywood/formica/veneer/vinyl or whatever. or not. Advantec is super stable, heavy, and flat. I've had several commercial staineless steel coutners made, and the steel fabricators use 2 layers of advantec and wrap the stainless right over that.
Ah, i see now you don't have much woodworker experience. the advantec option is still a good one and can be done with a battery skill saw and whatever screws you like. Or buy the butcher block in the size you want. i just bouth a 6'x30"x2.25" piece of cherry buther block for a client for around $800. Maple would be cheaper.
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Global Industrial Workbench Top, Boos Maple Butcher Block Square Edge, 72"Wx24"Dx1-3/4" Thick
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Just go down to the local home center and buy a sheet of subfloor. They will cut it for you.
Then attach to studs on three sides with 2x material and put some legs in the front. This isn’t a huge lathe, you’ll be fine.
John
Then attach to studs on three sides with 2x material and put some legs in the front. This isn’t a huge lathe, you’ll be fine.
John
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Wow. I always assume bowling alleys were glued up. That's crazy but good to know!
If you keep your eye out you might find butcher block on sale. I got a 2 x 8' at Lowes for <$200. You should also see if they have a damaged one that the manager would negotiate on.
If you keep your eye out you might find butcher block on sale. I got a 2 x 8' at Lowes for <$200. You should also see if they have a damaged one that the manager would negotiate on.
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