Group Project: Dividing Head - Organization and Design

I would like to make them as well! With this project going into late summer possibly. If i have power going i can also make em on the SB
 
I don't mind contributing to the purchase of small commercial parts as needed. Perhaps buy a pack from McMaster or similar and send extras along with the parts that I'm making.

I forgot about material for the bearing. I don't have any brass or bronze etc.. Since I would be ordering some in, let me know what works best.

As for time, I'm open minded. I've never tried to coordinate something like this, so I'm happy to defer to others there..

Flyinfool said:
Just being realistic, I would expect this whole thing to take until at least late summer.
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As things go maybe i can save up a little money and pick up one of those steady rests and i can make the one handle custom to everyone.
 
I won’t apply any pressure to anybody else because I would not have bought a dividing head for several years.

Having said that, I will bear down on my end when the ball is in my court (Weekend Warrior style!).
 
What exactly are the end caps? Trunion ends? Does the chuck back plate require a lot index holes? Is this best a CNC or manual op?
Robert
 
rwm said:
What exactly are the end caps? Trunion ends? Does the chuck back plate require a lot index holes? Is this best a CNC or manual op?
Robert
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You guys are great. Got me all excited.

Yes. The End Caps would be the pieces bolted to each end of the Trunnion to hold it in the Base. One is just a disk, and can be marked to indicate the Trunnion angle. The other will hold the Worm Crank and Indexing Plates. I took to calling that side the Trunnion Crank, since it would be used to turn the Trunnion. One of the End Caps should have a pin that indicates on holes in the Base for quick angle sets.

The Trunnion has a shoulder on each end that fits inside the Base holes. I drew both End Caps with 4 bolts holes to connect to the Trunnion. But, I think it might be better to have the round End Cap only have one hole in the center. Then the process would be to loosen that bolt, turn the Trunnion to the desired angle, then tightening the bolt to lock it in. The Trunnion shoulder would have to be a few thousandths shorter than the base thickness for this to work.

Mark_f bolted the Spindle Lock to the Trunnion Crank End Cap. I think it would work better to have a flat on the side of the Trunnion that the Spindle Lock would bolt to. That eliminates a need for the clearance on the Auxiliary Base.

I think the Chuck Plate should have indexing holes for quick indexing. And the Spindle Lock would carry the pin for those holes. I think this would be a good CNC job, especially if you consider the markings.

@Flyinfool I'll give you a call later today.
 
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Shotgun said:
You guys are great. Got me all excited.

Yes. The End Caps would be the pieces bolted to each end of the Trunnion to hold it in the Base. One is just a disk, and can be marked to indicate the Trunnion angle. The other will hold the Worm Crank and Indexing Plates. I took to calling that side the Trunnion Crank, since it would be used to turn the Trunnion. One of the End Caps should have a pin that indicates on holes in the Base for quick angle sets.

The Trunnion has a shoulder on each end that fits inside the Base holes. I drew both End Caps with 4 bolts holes to connect to the Trunnion. But, I think it might be better to have the round End Cap only have one hole in the center. Then the process would be to loosen that bolt, turn the Trunnion to the desired angle, then tightening the bolt to lock it in. The Trunnion shoulder would have to be a few thousandths shorter than the base thickness for this to work.

Mark_f bolted the Spindle Lock to the Trunnion Crank End Cap. I think it would work better to have a flat on the side of the Trunnion that the Spindle Lock would bolt to. That eliminates a need for the clearance on the Auxiliary Base.

I think the Chuck Plate should have indexing holes for quick indexing. And the Spindle Lock would carry the pin for those holes. I think this would be a good CNC job, especially if you consider the markings.

@Flyinfool I'll give you a call later today.
Click to expand...

I can do any cnc work if need be.
 
Here's a question. Instead of attaching the End Cap for the Trunnion on the Main Base side with bolts, wouldn't it make more sense to use a cam-lock? I hear that tool-less setup is what all the cool kids are doing these days.
 
Shotgun said:
Here's a question. Instead of attaching the End Cap for the Trunnion on the Main Base side with bolts, wouldn't it make more sense to use a cam-lock? I hear that tool-less setup is what all the cool kids are doing these days.
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I cannot for the life of me envision what you mean here...

That said, I suspect these endcaps are going to be bolted on 1x and stay attached forever after that. Making them separate parts is to make it easier to ship/assemble, right? I likely will be immediately loc-titing mine unless there is a good reason not to.
 
The Trunnion has to rotate to move the index from horizontal to vertical.

One End Cap holds the Worm that drives the Worm Gear to rotate the Spindle. I called that side the Trunnion Crank. It will be bolted to the Trunnion, and loc-tite would be appropriate.

As drawn, the other end of the Trunnion has a disk bolted to it. You can't see it in the drawing, but the Trunnion diameter is reduced as it passes through the Main Base on that side. The length of the reduction is slightly less than the thickness of the Main Base. The Main Base is captured between the shoulder on the Trunnion left by that reduction and the End Cap. Tightening the bolts would lock the Trunnion to the selected angle by clamping the Main Base.

I'm suggesting here that we can replace the 4 bolts with a cam-lock, so I don't have to spend 20 minutes hunting down a wrench that I just sat beside me. :)
 
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