Full Profile Comp

[MikeWi]

Looks great! Just out of curiosity, what is the Open Class typically shooting now? Back when I was shooting, it was .38 super. I've never heard of the centimeter round.

 

[wrmiller]

I've not done any competition shooting here in CO, as there doesn't seem to be as much interest up here as in AZ. But those I have talked to say that the 38 super is still popular, as is a new rimless 38 super, and 9x23. 40 S&W is popular in the other classes (slightly shorter than centimeter wildcat). My mentor also suggested a 45 based wildcat that necked the case down for a 9mm bullet but I didn't want to be reforming brass. H said it was a great cartridge for bunny busting though.

 

[wrmiller]

Not related to the comp build, but I've been waiting on some parts from my old mentor. He used to be a pistolsmith, now he makes parts to sell to gun manufacturers and gunsmiths. The sear and hammer designs are based on some ideas I had (mine were all hand made, no CNC) years back. Much improved of course. He also sent some samples of pieces he's making for Colt. Cool stuff.

 

[wrmiller]

And some extra cutters. He says that once the cutter shows the slightest imperfections in surface finish, they pull them. BUT...they are still plenty good for the likes of me.

 

[wrmiller]

I'm basically finished with the comp. As you can see, the 'flats' on a STI aren't, and I'm still debating if I want to invest the time to get them true, or if I just want to go lazy and bead blast the whole thing. I'm probably going to Durablue the whole thing as I don't have access to traditional hot bluing tanks which is the only reason I might go for that 'real pretty shine' you see coming out of some of the custom shops. But then the first time I scratched it I'd cry. It is going to be a shooter after all.



Oh...and this is probably the last full profile comp I make. Trash cans are SO much easier...

 

[Chris Bettis]

I'm basically finished with the comp. As you can see, the 'flats' on a STI aren't, and I'm still debating if I want to invest the time to get them true, or if I just want to go lazy and bead blast the whole thing. I'm probably going to Durablue the whole thing as I don't have access to traditional hot bluing tanks which is the only reason I might go for that 'real pretty shine' you see coming out of some of the custom shops. But then the first time I scratched it I'd cry. It is going to be a shooter after all.

View attachment 131744

Oh...and this is probably the last full profile comp I make. Trash cans are SO much easier...

Just blast it, and cerrakote it looks decent. Hides stuff and you don't have to worry about scratching it.

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[wrmiller]

I'm just mocking up to get an idea of which of my friends hammer designs to use, and I think this is the one I like the best. Still a TON of detail work and hand fitting to do, but I think this piece will actually turn out better than I thought it would a week or so ago.

Oh, and I apologize George, but no sharp outside edges on this one. Don't want it snagging on clothing or whatnot.

 

[wrmiller]

Well it ain't pretty, but once it's painted/coated it will be more than functional.



With regard to sights: What are you folks who are suffering from 'Old Man' eyes like me doing for sights these days, aside from electronic?

 

[wrmiller]

After all these years, I finally could have used a swivel base on my vise. But my 5" Kurt didn't come with one, so I am SOL...

See, I decided to put some cocking serrations in this slide as I was having a hard time gripping this thing when trying to cycle things and I like the ones on my Kimber so I thought I'd copy them. Then I saw the angle of the serrations. *sigh*

So straight serrations it is.



As an aside, I will say that the new LED light I bought from a guy on Ebay works REALLY well...

 

[Chris Bettis]

If I need to do work like that I trig out the angle I need. Using the axis you plan to cut in as the adjacent line of the triangle. The back vise jaw as your hypotenuse. Using an edge finder or in your case that fancy touch probe to find the opposite line distance once the vise is positioned properly use the clamping kit to secure it to the table and go.. Yeah it takes longer that way but for the few times I ever need to cut something like that it beats spending money on an angle base that collects dust 99% of the time.
Or you could clamp the part to the rotary table and indicate it to zero. Then use rotate the table to the proper angle and cut away.

Anyway it still looks great as it is. Im jealous.

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