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Enco 105-1110/RF-30 just landed in my shop...
- Thread starter TerryH
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- Joined
- May 8, 2018
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- 336
That's a good question and one that I have asked myself quite a few times in the past few days.
There are multiple reasons. The previous owner had repainted it blue long ago. He did it with a brush without disassembling or taping anything. I've spent my entire life in the body shop so that sort of thing just bugs the crap out of me. I knew that I was always going to look at it and wish I had repainted it if I did not so I just dove in. I realize this next statement is not going to make sense to many but I much prefer my machines or whatever to be pleasing to my eye. Performance of the machine is essential but I want my things to look good and to look well cared for. That was not the case with this mill so I had to fix it.
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- Feb 1, 2018
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On the Rung Fo bases I have seen and helped re-scrape the 4 pads that sit on the top of cabinet are way off. One I believe was .011" high when we set it on a granite surface plate. So if the cabinet is flat and when you tighten the hold down bolts the base twisted. I get a bit anal sometime when it goes to accuracy. The machine is not a Bridgeport or Moore, so maybe it's OK as far as accuracy goes.
By chance do you have a surface plate? If not, don't worry about it. I just again looked at the pictures and when you set the base on the cabinet shim under the 4 corners so they all hit on what ever cabinet you set it on. so when you tighten the 4 bolts it doesn't twist.
I could get into precision ways to improve this by using 3 points, etc, etc. Sometimes hard to help of teach if you don't have the equipment to do so. So just give it a try and if it works good, use it. Rich
By chance do you have a surface plate? If not, don't worry about it. I just again looked at the pictures and when you set the base on the cabinet shim under the 4 corners so they all hit on what ever cabinet you set it on. so when you tighten the 4 bolts it doesn't twist.
I could get into precision ways to improve this by using 3 points, etc, etc. Sometimes hard to help of teach if you don't have the equipment to do so. So just give it a try and if it works good, use it. Rich
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2012
- Messages
- 9,408
These are definitely sand castings. If you want proof, remove the column from the base and sand will drop out from the column.
For a ring light, check this one out: https://www.tormach.com/store/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=32700
I've been crazy busy, but here's what the book says about repairing the table. Richard seems to be an expert in restoring machines, so if he disagrees, it might be good to listen to him. I'm a noob and haven't tried this. 
Nice. I have been considering getting something like that set up on my Bridgeport.
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- Feb 1, 2018
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Terry and I have been private messaging about similar repairs. I told him we needed to make it public. I recommended using Devcon Aluminum as you will never know it's there compared to a steel mixture. Terry said he is doing a procedure with pic's that I think he will add on here soon.
I'll look forward to reading it then! Thanks for contributing your knowledge!
- Joined
- May 8, 2018
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Hi Mikey. I had already found that light. Seems like quite a good deal for $33.00.
- Joined
- May 8, 2018
- Messages
- 336
I'm planning on working on the top while it's off the base. Will finish the paint on the base and then tackle the top. I was strategically not saying much about it on the open forum just in case it went totally wrong I didn't have to explain how I jacked it up. lol...
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