electronic lead screw

A bit of advice re: the encoder and display connectors. Mark the ground pin on the Launchpad board and on the encoder connector and the +5 pin on the boost board and the display connector with a Sharpie. The visual aides are added insurance against reversing the connections.

Here is some information on the encoder.https: //www.ia.omron.com/product/item/2453/
Looking at the pin assignment of the Lunchpad, I don't believe that the encoder would be damaged by reversing the plug. It would put the supply voltage across two output pins (2A & 2B). If the Launchpad port is damaged, you should be able to use J13 by changing the switches. https://github.com/clough42/electronic-leadscrew/blob/master/docs/images/LaunchPad.jpg
 
Regarding the Clough42 ELS on a ML7

Gentlemen thank you once more.

a. I do not have an oscilloscope but I did a crude test on both Omron decoders with a multimeter. Applying 5v DC across the brown and blue(common ground) wires, I measured the voltage across black (A) and blue, then across white (B) and blue.
I then slowly rotated the spindle and observed voltage fluctuations between 0 and +0.1v DC.
This is what I would expect from the circuit diagram in the link from RJSakowski.
Also I would expect that the diode on the +5v feed (brown wire) should be well capable of surviving reversed polarity at the 5v level.
I opened one of the encoders and there was no obvious sign of burnt out components.
Therefore, absent any advice from you, I am going to assume that both encoders are working correctly.

b. Moving the encoder input from J12 to J13 had no effect. I feel that there should be a switch change but the instructions say not.

c. Knowing that you have a good configuration with v1.0.03 I flashed that version into memory and rebooted. The control panel now reads the correct version 1.0.03 but the rpm still only shows zero.

OK, I have had enough. I am sure it works but that I have screwed up somewhere. I feel as though it needs a switch set somewhere on the TI board. But I have spent about $500 on this and it has stopped being fun. I do not want to solder wires I just want to make swarf so I am going to hob some change gears and put the stepper motor on my mini mill.

Thanks for all your help.
 
I do have a scope and other electronics test gear. If you would like me to take a look at your parts, let me know. Perhaps I can help you at least identify parts with issues.
 
ttabbal, that is very kind of you to offer to test some parts.
However I live in Canada -- too far to drive, and the cost of postage, duty, general border issues would be so high that I could buy a new encoder!
Thanks again.
 
Anyone here have the Clough42 old metal bud box lid they don't need? Those of you that bought Cloughs PCB lid as well....
 
I have the box lid but have some layout marks on it.


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@jlesser27 I could skim cut it. I'll tell you from indicting mine in...they are not flat, so a skim would be helpful. I have mine I just finished you could have in trade. It's not flawless, its my first ever from fusion to final product, metal cnc project.
 
I guess I'll start a conversation with you and put it there? I don't want it public posted for bots and such...
 
ian999 said:
Regarding the Clough42 ELS on a ML7

Gentlemen thank you once more.

a. I do not have an oscilloscope but I did a crude test on both Omron decoders with a multimeter. Applying 5v DC across the brown and blue(common ground) wires, I measured the voltage across black (A) and blue, then across white (B) and blue.
I then slowly rotated the spindle and observed voltage fluctuations between 0 and +0.1v DC.
This is what I would expect from the circuit diagram in the link from RJSakowski.
Also I would expect that the diode on the +5v feed (brown wire) should be well capable of surviving reversed polarity at the 5v level.
I opened one of the encoders and there was no obvious sign of burnt out components.
Therefore, absent any advice from you, I am going to assume that both encoders are working correctly.

b. Moving the encoder input from J12 to J13 had no effect. I feel that there should be a switch change but the instructions say not.

c. Knowing that you have a good configuration with v1.0.03 I flashed that version into memory and rebooted. The control panel now reads the correct version 1.0.03 but the rpm still only shows zero.

OK, I have had enough. I am sure it works but that I have screwed up somewhere. I feel as though it needs a switch set somewhere on the TI board. But I have spent about $500 on this and it has stopped being fun. I do not want to solder wires I just want to make swarf so I am going to hob some change gears and put the stepper motor on my mini mill.

Thanks for all your help.
Click to expand...
Man! If you weren't in a different country, I'd say send me your Ti board and boost board, I'd plug it into my working system and figure it out. I REALLY feel like it's something simple/small. I feel your frustration. Maybe just take a step back, clear your head and come back in a week.
 
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