Drilling Lots of Holes in PVC Pipe

A few years (20+, ~1998) back, I had the hots for "Geodesic Dome" construction. Fascinated by the geometry of the triangles, I was using PVC water pipe for struts and 2 inch black sewer pipe for hubs. Schedule 40, Home Depot stuff, nothing exotic. I wanted to drill many 6 point hubs that were not symetrical at 60 degrees, so couldn't be drilled through.

I started with a step drill but that was too slow. I took a piece of rigid conduit, 1/2 inch, and cut it down to a snug fit. With cutting spurs on the end. It was only a couple inches long, I didn't intend to go completely through. With a bell reducer on the threaded end and a stub of 1/8 inch pipe to fit a drill chuck. The "drill" didn't come from HD, I acquired (stole?) a cutoff from the mill. The cutting teeth weren't evenly spaced, cut with a coarse file.

The contraption wasn't hardened, hell it wasn't even a tool grade steel. Just a piece of scrap from a conduit job. But for cutting plastic there wasn't much hardening required. I only made a hundred or so hubs, with 5 or 6 holes per hub, mostly 6. The custom drill held up through to completion of my project as well as a couple for friends. Cheap greenhouses. . . I did have to stop and punch out the slugs on occasion, that was a PITA mostly because I had to stop what I was doing and it broke my rythym.

For thinwall PVC, the pipe will tend to collapse under the pressure from a press. But with a thin wall tubing should hold up pretty well. The up side is that you don't need tool steel, even a copper tube will should hold up for a thousand or better. If the cutting edges were properly machined, it would be sharper, cutting better.

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Turning the entire hole into chips just makes messy waste; I'd consider a 9/16" hole saw, with appropriate
workholding ( block of wood clamped to the drill press table, bored to guide the pipe) and
maybe a shop vac to suck the swarf.

As long as the hole saw stays cool, the holes will be neat. Yeah, a step bit has
good finish, but it's SLOW going. 2000 holes; slow; unhappiness.
 
Can you sharpen a normal 9/16"? Give it a sharp tip angle so it won't 'bite' on breakthrough and it'll drill about as fast as you can push the bit.

GsT
I could, of course, but 9/16 drill bits are rather expensive, and I only have one. I would rather grind a cheap step bit. I have a few of those.
 
I had to install 100s of top hat grommets into a pvc supply line, I used regular twist drill with a stop collar and held the pipe in the vise. I only drilled one side of the pipe but I could have increased the depth and drilled right thru.
How big were they? If the holes were less than 1/2", I have some Plasdrill bits. Trying to drill 9/16" holes in thin wall PVC is a little different, I think.
I used a straight edge and small vise grips clamped to the end of the pipe as an anti-rotation devise. As I moved the pipe 6" to drill another hole the vise grips rode along the straight edge so all holes remained vertically aligned.
These fit into flag holders, which have a 6mm screw perpendicular to the holes I will be drilling. I am going to drill the 6mm hole, first, and create a clamping jig out of Aluminum to hold the pipes while drilling.
I second the thought of custom grinding the tip of the drill bit to ease the start of the holes
See above.
 
Turning the entire hole into chips just makes messy waste; I'd consider a 9/16" hole saw,
I am not sure that would work very well. First of all, I don't have a 9/16 hole saw, and drilling a round surface that deep? Those saw teeth are pretty aggressive. This is thin wall stuff, and I think it might grab.
with appropriate
workholding ( block of wood clamped to the drill press table, bored to guide the pipe)
I am making a jig out of Aluminum.
and
maybe a shop vac to suck the swarf.
Definitely.
As long as the hole saw stays cool, the holes will be neat. Yeah, a step bit has
good finish, but it's SLOW going. 2000 holes; slow; unhappiness.
In order to keep a hole saw from grabbing, I suspect I would have to feed very slowly. I don't know...
 
I could, of course, but 9/16 drill bits are rather expensive, and I only have one. I would rather grind a cheap step bit. I have a few of those.
There are currently at least half a dozen 9/16" drill bits listed on eBay in the $12.00 to $20.00 price range. They include names like Cle-Line, Dewalt, Vermont American, Drill America, Milwaukee, and Bosch, among others. They may not be the top-of-the-line bits, but they should be more than sufficient for PVC.

There are even some Chicago Latrobes available for $9.99 plus $3.95 shipping:

Here's a lot of 4 Chicago Latrobes for $12.00 plus $10.00 shipping. That comes down to less than $5.50 a unit.
 
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I thought of that. I'm not sure how well it would work. I wonder if the plastic will deform under the cutting pressure?
annular cutters are very free cutting, if anything I would expect them to do better than regular drills in that regard. They make beautiful holes too.
 
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