- Joined
- Oct 4, 2011
- Messages
- 727
I have a project where I needed to cut 3/8" hard copper pipe in half length wise. The pipes were 6' long and the sides had to be very close to the same size.
I took a scrap of steel out of my scrap drawer and drilled and reamed a whole .005" over the OD of the tubing.
Mounted a 2" Dia .025" thick slot mill. The mill is 24 TPI running at 230 PRMs.
Cut into the block on center line until the teeth started cutting into the far side of the hole and keeping it so the arbor is clear of the hole. The cutter is running clockwise so the the tubing being fed into the cutter is being cut by conventional milling not climb milling.
Pushed the tubing in by hand. The flat of the cutter kept the tubing from rotating and kept the cut straight. It cut quickly with little force. I did run coolant since the cutter had no side clearance.
The final pieces did twist but that was from internal stress from being drawn. They were easy to straighten back out.
Not something you need to do often but when you do this works well.
Jeff
I took a scrap of steel out of my scrap drawer and drilled and reamed a whole .005" over the OD of the tubing.
Mounted a 2" Dia .025" thick slot mill. The mill is 24 TPI running at 230 PRMs.
Cut into the block on center line until the teeth started cutting into the far side of the hole and keeping it so the arbor is clear of the hole. The cutter is running clockwise so the the tubing being fed into the cutter is being cut by conventional milling not climb milling.
Pushed the tubing in by hand. The flat of the cutter kept the tubing from rotating and kept the cut straight. It cut quickly with little force. I did run coolant since the cutter had no side clearance.
The final pieces did twist but that was from internal stress from being drawn. They were easy to straighten back out.
Not something you need to do often but when you do this works well.
Jeff