Car ignition system, Hall Sensor failure in 10 min Why?

[GoceKU]

How long do you have to leave a spare tire in place for it to imprint it's lettering like that?


It's hard to tell you exactly what to check for, as your vehicle doesn't exist in my world, so I have no idea what makes it tick.... To get started, you want (and it sounds like you have?) a very good overview of the ignition control system layout.

The lettering was from a space saver that i modified the rim on. Only 3-4 months over the summer.

Gasoline/propane and air mix makes it tick just as any other car, this one is very simple but this problem is a real head scratcher.

 

[GoceKU]

They're generally pretty robust... Though often fed 5V via a regulator somewhere. Check it's being fed the correct voltage as that might kill it. Tacho bouncing implies some kind of weird ground issue though, so maybe a return path isn't quite as solid as it should be? Alternator not doing something funny and spiking up to silly voltage because the reg is poorly?

Changed the sensor with a used one and it works. It shredded the alternator belt, so it may had voltage spikes.

 

[pontiac428]

I only run shielded wires with a drain wire grounded at the ECU (or ignition trigger module if you have no ECU). Takes EMF noise off the table. This is a know solution to a known problem. There is a lot of noise around your plug wires and coil. Any induced voltage in the trigger wire with enough amplitude to make threshold will trigger the coil.

 

[GoceKU]

No ECU no electronics, i added the electric ignition to help with reliability and it was the first to fail. I'm intentionally keeping it simple without any electronic, only thing i may add is hydraulic power steering.

 

[pontiac428]

Then consider shielding the wire from the distributor to the coil or coil driver module.

Hall systems are less sensitive than variable reluctor systems, but still can pick up noise. Is yours a 12v retrofit with a 12v coil trigger signal, or a 5v EFI type TTL voltage module?

@great white said to check ALL your grounds, that's good advice.

A side question- how are you controlling ignition advance on the Niva? I see vacuum (disconnected) for low RPM, doe it have a reliable mechanical advance or was it removed for the pickup upgrade?

 

[Firebrick43]

I learned a long time ago that never expect a new part not to be bad. And that whole runs of certain electronic parts can be bad.

I had a 91 jeep wrangler that had developed a bad squall in the distributor. I purchased a Napa rebuilt unit. The squall was gone but it would randomly not start if warm , till one day it just died. I had a suspicion that it was the cam sensor in the distributor (that controls the fuel). When it finally died and wouldn't restart after 5 min I was able to hook up a noid light and verify my suspicion. I exchanged the distributor and it worked for a while and started doing the same thing. I had not turned in my OEM distributor for a core charge so I swapped out the cam sensor for the aftermarket one and never had a problem again for the 3 years I owned it after that.

 

[GoceKU]

It's a 12v system as far as i know, its a factory Lada system they use it in all their cars and all the parts are interchangeable. I did rute the trigger wire some 10 cm lower away from the HT leads, it was rooted much coaser before. The distributor has vacuum advance also it has centrifugal advance, they both work but from what i've seen with a timing light is very crude and not precise.

 

[markba633csi]

I was going to mention routing the sensor leads away from high tension leads but I see you already did that
Centrifugal advance sometimes get sticky from corrosion- check also no vacuum leaks
-M

 

[DAT510]

Did the original ignition have a Bias Resistor in series with points?

I've seen some electronic ignitions that wanted the Bias Resistor left in place and others that wanted it removed.

Is it possible the version you installed wanted the Bias Resistor left connected?

 

[GoceKU]

It's a russian car, they don't have Bias Resistor. They run 12v directly from the ignition switch. The ignition i used is OEM made to run directly 12v.