Can I swap spindles on a plain bearing lathe?

I was told that southbend wants type c oil for spindles. One of the oils is medium and heavy vactra oil which is way oil. That being said due to the bearing condition the oil runs out fast and it seizes up at higher speeds.
South Bend wants Type A oil for spindle bearings--10-wt Spindle Oil (Vactra, etc.)--for the reasons mentioned above.

$275 for a spindle and bearings that will at least work is a good deal. You'll need to adjust the shim stack all over again--don't run it if it's too tight when you assemble it, using the test provided by the manufacturer (and the South Bend deflection test is probably good enough for that if there isn't any period-relevant information from other sources).

The current bearings are probably worn to the point where reducing the shim stack just clamps the spindle top to bottom, and still leaves gaps at the sides where the cap rests on the headstock. That will let those oil channels on the side empty.

The openings in the new bearing caps don't have a metering hole the way the old ones do, so you'll probably want a felt plug in that opening to meter the oil into the bearing. And I'd probably replace those Gits oilers with something bigger, if they empty during a session even after you replace the spindle. South Bend uses a capillary wick to pull oil up from a reservoir below the spindle, which gives you an idea of how slowly the oil can move and still be effective.

Rick "bearings can be loose, up to a point, but they can't run dry" Denney
 
$275 shipped for the spindle and bearings. May spindle and bearings don’t look bad but they feel bad. Those bearings pictured are the ones that would come with the spindle. My lathe can’t run in high gear for longer than a couple minutes before it wants to seize up. Loosening the bolts helps but the bearings still get really hot as the oil pours out. It’s weird that mine don’t have the oil grooves that these do. They seem like a fundamental part.
I'd try it for $275.

John
 
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