[CNC] Anilam 3200mk Help

[JimDawson]

The VFD must be connected directly to the motor, with no disconnects or relays between the the VFD and the motor. The existing spindle motor pushbutton station must be wired into the VFD control terminals, or must have intervening relays if it also needs to be connected to the control cabinet. The VFD has a set of what they are calling ''multi-function inputs'', these are what controls the VFD. These inputs are internally powered by the VFD and can not be connected to 120V external power.

You are going the have to do some rewiring to make everything work correctly. I suspect there are 5 or 6 wires from the pushbutton station that went to the power cabinet that ran the motor starter and E-stop. You don't need the remote operator station that is available for the VFD. It is possible you might need a couple of small ''ice cube'' relays to interface the controls, but I don't think so. I don't think the CNC controller controls the spindle motor at all, or even knows if the spindle is running or not.

The next step is to identify the wires from the pushbutton station and match them with the terminals in the power cabinet. Once you have that information, I can help you with a diagram of the original, and then the modifications needed for the VFD install.
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[derf]

Look at the console........There is a spindle control and an E stop right on the front. That is where mine is controlled. I don't know if yours is wired from that, or the other big mass of switches on the machine, but it is an option. And , that would tell me that the spindle can be signaled though the controller.

 

[95ttoplt1]

Thanks fellas. I'll look at that in the morning and retort back. I appreciate all the help!

 

[95ttoplt1]

Busy day. The VFD is wired to the incoming 220 1ph, and to the outlet plug. The motor is rewired for 240v 3ph. It took most of the day as I had to fix a bunch of little nit noid wiring on that side of the shop with other outlets and such, new conduit ect ect. The motor was wired just as you described Jim and the diagram on the side confirmed your rewire instructions.

Now the VFD powered up with no escapement of magical smoke!



And Fred the front of my control has the same buttons! I'm super excited about that, but at a loss right now on how to make that talk to the VFD.



I ended the day with a run to town and got a electric fan for the top of the spindle motor, and a couple pieces to make an adapter to mount it, and a switch(cave man I know). At the end of the this I would like the fan to automatically run when the spidle is turned on, and then run until under a certain temp. That is icing on the cake at this point. I have a switch for now.

So now to the masses, how do I go about talking to the VFD with push buttons, or with my console? I did see those multifunction inputs, and I saw an mention of a different manual for the VFD that I might have to search and download.

I took picture of the back of the push button control center, but you cant see the wire numbers until I start unhooking things. They are the red wires ran into the left of the power supply box. I have unhooked them from the box for the moment as they needed to enter from another side.

The picture below is the left side of the box and those red wires on the left are going to the little gray control box. Tommorows adventure! Now, I will say that with my meter, all these seemed screwed into a bus bar and connected, which makes no sense to me.

Number 2 is the hot wire off the left side of the transformer(which is working as advertised, atleast before I unhooked all these red wires, I didn't check it again after).


This is the back of the push button panel



With my new fan, should I blow into the motor, or being drawing air out?


Thank you all very much for getting me this far. Super close to turning the spindle which is a massive step forward for me!

 

[derf]

I looked at mine and the contactors are slightly different, but the controller will operate the contacts. That's why I said not to remove it. I removed all of the 3 phase power going to the contactors, because you no longer need that going straight to the VFD. The 24 v DC circuit that controls the spindle fwd, spindle rev, stop in the VFD, gets wired through the contactors. When the controller sends a signal to the motor contactors, they close and complete the circuit to the VFD. I also used one side of the contactor to operate the auxiliary fan, so when the spindle comes on, so does the fan.
I would imagine the quickest way to find out if your contactors are controlled through the console is to push the spindle fwd button and listen for a click.

 

[95ttoplt1]

Thanks Fred. I did leave those contactors in, and all the wiring. I know my console doesn't control them as there is no wires going from the CNC box to the power supply where those are located.

Where does this 24v power come from?

I'll have to dig into some box and see where the signal comes out of the Anilam Console for spindle control. You wouldn't happen to know this would you? Will the 3200mk control spindle speed with the VFD?

You guys have been a god send in this process. I'd still be sitting there staring in that box like a hog looking at wrist watch!

edit. I just looked up where Delphos is, we got this mill in Marion, not too far from you.

 

[JimDawson]

You are making great progress! Looking good!

At the end of the this I would like the fan to automatically run when the spindle is turned on, and then run until under a certain temp. That is icing on the cake at this point. I have a switch for now.

You can run the fan directly from the VFD using the Multi-function Relay Output. The function is programmable, so it could be set to come on below a some RPM, or it looks like there is a provision for a Thermistor input on the VFD. This would give you thermal control for the fan. I need to study this a bit to understand how to use the thermistor. I'll have some time in a couple of days.

I did see those multifunction inputs, and I saw an mention of a different manual for the VFD that I might have to search and download.

Looks like you can download all of the manuals here
https://industrial.omron.eu/en/prod...y_inverters/compact_solution/mx2/default.html

Number 2 is the hot wire off the left side of the transformer(which is working as advertised, atleast before I unhooked all these red wires, I didn't check it again after).

This is where I confuse the He!! out of you. Wire #2 is roughly equivalent to a Neutral, hence the reason that it's white. It is common the actually ground this wire to the chassis at the transformer, so the transformer output does not ''float'' relative to the ground. The Red wires are considered the ''Hot'' (not grounded) side of the transformer output. All low (120V side) voltage measurements in the power circuit are measured to the #2 wire. In other words, between Red and White (#2). A Neutral is defined as ''a grounded, current carrying, conductor'' A Safety Ground (green wire) is defined as ''A grounded, non-current carrying, conductor''

Speaking of grounds, bring all of the grounds back to a single point in the chassis, you already have the ground lug there. This helps to prevent ''ground loops'' which can play havoc with electronic signals.

With my new fan, should I blow into the motor, or being drawing air out?

Blow into the motor, in the same direction as the motor fan.

Where does this 24v power come from?

The VFD has it's own internal 24VDC supply for operating the inputs. Do not use this 24V supply for anything but operating the VFD inputs.

I'll be out of the office all day, so again I'll be slow to respond.
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[derf]

The source that energizes the contactors is on the servo control board. On the left side of your board, there are 2 terminal blocks. The one on top has 8 terminals, just below it is one with 5 or 6 terminals.....this is the one. On my board this is labeled P13, yours may differ.
From the top down, 1=AC hot(brown) 2=thermal(black) 3=forward(orange) 4=reverse(brown)5=coolant(yellow) 6=AC neutral(white).

 

[95ttoplt1]

This is where I confuse the He!! out of you. Wire #2 is roughly equivalent to a Neutral, hence the reason that it's white. It is common the actually ground this wire to the chassis at the transformer, so the transformer output does not ''float'' relative to the ground. The Red wires are considered the ''Hot'' (not grounded) side of the transformer output. All low (120V side) voltage measurements in the power circuit are measured to the #2 wire. In other words, between Red and White (#2). A Neutral is defined as ''a grounded, current carrying, conductor'' A Safety Ground (green wire) is defined as ''A grounded, non-current carrying, conductor''

Speaking of grounds, bring all of the grounds back to a single point in the chassis, you already have the ground lug there. This helps to prevent ''ground loops'' which can play havoc with electronic signals.
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I understand that neutral concept acutally. The divind line between the positive and negative swings in the A/C sine wave correct?

The grounds are hooked up as you describe. The neutral is grounded that way(Not that it would matter as my neutral bar and green ground bar are bolted together in the breaker box, something I never understood)

Blow into the motor, in the same direction as the motor fan.

I don't have a motor fan any more! The knuckle head I bought it from broke it off. This will completely replace it, so it will be on full time.

The VFD has it's own internal 24VDC supply for operating the inputs. Do not use this 24V supply for anything but operating the VFD inputs.

I'll be out of the office all day, so again I'll be slow to respond.

That is the next step for sure!

The source that energizes the contactors is on the servo control board. On the left side of your board, there are 2 terminal blocks. The one on top has 8 terminals, just below it is one with 5 or 6 terminals.....this is the one. On my board this is labeled P13, yours may differ.
From the top down, 1=AC hot(brown) 2=thermal(black) 3=forward(orange) 4=reverse(brown)5=coolant(yellow) 6=AC neutral(white).

Solid gold Fred! Thanks so much. I'll look into that tomorrow.

I decided I didn't like where I mounted the power supply box so I unwired it, and took it down. Then I removed the CNC control box from the mill, and moved them around a bit to find a good layout. I ended up putting the power supply box right back where I had it and mounted the CNC control box on the wall to the right of the mill. All my motor control cables reach when at the extreme of the axis so we should be good!

I went to lunch and got a migraine and spent the rest of the day in bed. Maybe tomorrow.

 

[JimDawson]

I understand that neutral concept acutally. The divind line between the positive and negative swings in the A/C sine wave correct?

Mmmmmmmm.......No This explains it better than I can, a picture is worth a thousand words

The grounds are hooked up as you describe. The neutral is grounded that way(Not that it would matter as my neutral bar and green ground bar are bolted together in the breaker box, something I never understood)

How and where the Neutral and Ground are connected depends on local code and the age of the system. In Oregon for instance, mobile homes and floating homes (houseboats) are required to have a 4 wire system, 4 wires running from the power pole to the breaker panel, with the neutral and ground as separate wires. The neutral and ground are not connected at the breaker box, and run all the way back to the power pole. This may also be code for all new construction, not sure about that.