[CNC] Anilam 3200mk Help

[JimDawson]

OK, here's some new pictures. This is easy to convert from 3 phase to single phase. Just don't connect the center leg and presto, single phase.

Somewhere there must be a FOR/REV switch in the system somewhere.

The relay that is marked ??? may be the E-stop. The E-stop should kill the servos and the spindle motor, but leave the computer and other controls hot. The relay board should have an E-stop input

 

[95ttoplt1]

Jim I'm sorry I didn't post this picture with the first. I thought it was evident in the first picture, but its hard to see. This is mounted just the to the right of the turret above the table.



Here is some more pictures inside the power supply box. Those relays are 120v?? These are labeled "remove" on your picture.



How they are currently wired.



This is a close up of the mystery relay.



A close up of the transformer at the bottom



How its currently wired.



And the mystery fuses.

 

[95ttoplt1]

Jim I can certainly take more pictures. I really appreciate your help. Even though I'm young my eyes go to crap in the evening so its hard to see good enough to take decent pictures. I know this looks really easy to you, but I opened that power supply box and pee'd a little. I rewire hotrods for a side job, but DC in a car is a different world than this AC stuff. I'm just not familiar with it.

If I remove those relays, and wire in my VFD there. How will I turn the spindle on and off. I don't have a remote for the VFD. I bet my VFD could use the buttons to toggle on and off and reverse.

Its a OMRON 3G3MX2-AB022-V1 . I'll see if I can attach the literature with it.

 

[95ttoplt1]

Omron literature. This was recommended by the local electrical shop, and it seems to have lots of the top end features of the AD GS# series, and some other stuff I don't understand haha.

 

[derf]

I'd leave the motor contacters where they are, just bypass them because there is plenty room in the box for a VFD. The contactors will come in handy if you need to run an auxiliary fan to the spindle motor. You don't need a transformer, just 120 v in for the computer on a separate dedicated circuit, and 240 single phase for the VFD. The "mystery " relay is probably for M codes( flood coolant and mist coolant) or I use one circuit for a shop vac.
Mine looks just like that, but it's all crammed into 1 box.

 

[Jim_Hbar]

It looks like that 3phase box was setup to be the sole power connection for the whole machine - I suspect the "mystery relay" is for the control power, and it has/had hard wired e-stop(s).
It's an awful big can to hide a lonely little VFD !

 

[JimDawson]

That's interesting. Looks like the mill was wired for 480V, so you are going to have to wire the motor for 240 volts and switch the transformer to 240V. On the transformer, there should be 2 link bars between the center screws, you just need to connect it like the diagram on the transformer.

The motor should be a dual voltage 230/460, 9 lead motor. Right now, I expect that the incoming power wires are connected to L1-1 ,L2-2, and L3-3. and 4-7, 5-8, 6-9 are connected respectively for 460V. For 240V, you would connect L1-1-7, L2-2-8, L3-3-9, and 4-5-6 connected together.

The relay (spindle motor starter) coils are 120V, but they were switching 480V. The spindle motor starter is a reversing starter with an interlock to prevent the possibility of engaging forward and reverse at the same time, that's why it's so complex looking. It's really just a 2 way switch. The VFD replaces all of that. 2 wires in one end (from power), and 3 wires out the other end (to the motor), plus the grounds of course.

The power end of this machine is really simple. The controls side is going to be more interesting and figuring out how the control side and the power side interact is going to be fun without a wiring diagram. The good news is that all of the wires in the power side are numbered, so not to bad to trace,

You should be able to use your existing buttons for the VFD. I have not downloaded the manual yet, but I will so I can work through this with you. There should be a way to wire a 3 button control with E-stop. We're going to make a controls engineer out of you.

What we need to figure out is what powered up the servo drive system, the 1000VA transformer seems a bit light for that task, but maybe not. Earlier you mentioned running the controls end off of a 120V wall outlet, that is not a bad idea, that's the way I run mine. In that case, the only thing you would need in the power cabinet is the disconnect, the VFD, and the E-stop relay.

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[95ttoplt1]

Okay I read over everybody's comments 2 or 3 times until I kind of understand them. I went out this morning and looked at the box again with your comments and mind. I did see where it looks like it had 460 volt in so I've converted the wires going into the transformer to the 240 Volt setting. And I also disconnected where the fuses went to the relays. The fuses now go to the transformer and to the VFD. All the relays are ran off 110v converted from 240v 1ph pre VFD.

The contactor side of the relays are fed with 240v 3ph post VFD. Since this isn't the control side of the relay it should be fine correct?

I'll climb up and wire the motor for 240v this afternoon. Its nap time!

Going into the VFD I have to hook up L1 a neutral and a ground. Which wire is which coming out of my breaker box? I have a ganged 30amp breaker with two wires coming out and the green connected to the common bus bar.

 

[JimDawson]

The contactor side of the relays are fed with 240v 3ph post VFD. Since this isn't the control side of the relay it should be fine correct?

Not sure what you mean by ''contactor side of the relays''. Just to clarify the terms: A motor starter consists of a heavy relay(s) (contactor), and overload relays. The overload relays are behind the little black things (heaters), labeled H? 28 (a little hard to see in the pic), the terminals are labeled T1,T2, and T3. From the overload relays, the wires connect to the motor. Power normally comes in the top of the motor starter (L1, L2, L3), and out the bottom (T1, T2, T3).

It looks like in the pictures that the motor is connected to a receptacle on the cabinet. This is where the VFD should be connected. The VFD should not be connected to the motor starter at all. Remove all of the incoming and out going black wires going to the motor starter, you can leave the red ones connected for now, as well as the cross connected black wires. The motor starter should be left completely inert for now.

Going into the VFD I have to hook up L1 a neutral and a ground.

In the U.S.A, there is no neutral used in a 240V residential wiring system. You have L1, L2, and a ground. Neutral is only used in a 120V circuit, and it comes from the transformer center tap on the power pole. The common color code for 240V wiring is Black, Red, and Green for ground. White is normally only used for neutral.

Which wire is which coming out of my breaker box? I have a ganged 30amp breaker with two wires coming out and the green connected to the common bus bar.

Just for consistency I consider black as L1, and red as L2, green is of course ground. If you have a black and white wire connected to the breaker, then mark the white wire as red, normally red tape is used for this, but a red magic marker would work. The red tape is normally available at any hardware store electrical department. Just as a side note, a 30 amp breaker requires the use of #10 wire.

I'm going to be in my shop making piles of chips, so I may be a bit slow to respond to further questions. Others please feel free to jump in here.
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[95ttoplt1]

OK I went back out and took a look and more picture. My though was that If I wired in the VFD between the fuses and the Motor Starter relay was that everything that was only using single phase and 110v in the box would still be using that, and where three phase was previously I have replicated that again. This way the control panel and everything else would work as it did before without completely rewiring the machine. The relays wouldn't see the Hz variation on the control side and should remain stable? The HZ variation would only be happing on the side it it connecting. Maybe I don't understand how these relays work. I am assuming the 110v are pulling the relay closed, connecting L1,l2,l3 to t1,t2,t3. The relay wouldn't know or care to the voltage or HZ on the connecting side, only the 110v side. Would this not be the case?

Jim how would I turn the spindle on and off if I remove those two relays and wire in the VFD as you describe? My control panel on the side of the machine would be completely out of the equation correct?I would have to rewire all that into the VFD or get a remote panel for the VFD?