[CNC] Anilam 3200mk Help

[JimDawson]

So other little thoughts going forward to make it more user friendly(after looking over websites of companies that repair these). Input and opinions requested

You might be a bit shocked at the pricing on the repairs and upgrades to the existing hardware. I think I would go in a different direction, especially because you are dealing with 25 year old technology.

1: Adding a card reader.

If you can find a serial (RS232) card reader and old DOS drivers for it, it might work. If the existing software will support it.

2. Adding the third axis

If you can find the software to run it, the system was designed to run 3 axis

3. using that Ethernet port on the card to integrate into the home network( I don't have a computer with a RS432 port)

I don't think that the E-net port exists on that card. There is the space for it but I'm guessing it's not enabled in firmware. It may be possible to add it. Finding drivers might be a challenge. Not something I would do.

4. Would option 3 allow it to run Wifi in some form? That would open it way up. Cell phone control etc..

I think you would have to add a Windows based computer to the system and use that to communicate with the controller computer.

What is the "feature connector?

I dunno

What is the Flat Panel connector?

I suspect they had an option for some kind of a auxiliary operator panel. Normally these are RS232 or RS485 serial devices. Maybe some kind of a touch screen device.

The existing software probably supports serial communications so I would add a more modern computer and use that as the gateway for the external communications. Then just pass the G-code to the Anilam computer. You can pick up an older Windows computer with a serial port for almost nothing or many times for free. Setting up the comms might be an interesting project. Again this would require some compatible terminal software on the Windows computer, I don't know if Hyper Terminal (installed as part of Windows) would work or not. For longer programs, it might require that a drip system be set up. That is where an outside device loads G-code as the controller computer will take it.

If you want, I give my software away for free. But it will only work with Galil Motion Control products. If you want to do that upgrade I can help you out. But I recommend that you use what you have first to get familiar with CNC and writing G-code in conversational mode from the screen.
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[derf]

About 2 years ago I had to replace the x axis drive card on mine and it was $600.00. At the same time, they were offering upgrades for a SD card readers and that conversion was $750.00, and had to be installed by them at the factory. The network feature was already there, but it took $500.00 to "unlock" it. As far as adding another axis, at the time I got mine, a 4th axis was about $8000 with the rotary table.I would suspect a z axis would be less, but it will depend on the type of motion it takes to make it work.

 

[95ttoplt1]

Thanks Fellas.

I got a $25 19" Dell LED monitor today for it. I'll just piggy back it for now and leave the CRT in the housing.

I did cruise around Ebay and found tons of cards. I'll have to do more research and see what adding the Z will all entail. Just getting it up and running 2 axis will be fun enough haha.

I did find a offering of a manual that has the wiring diagrams and such, but they wanted I think close to $400 for a downloadable PDF. Is there a copy of this floating around somewhere?

This will probably show my ignorance, but controller wise, to add the third axis. Could it be as simple as adding a third card or replacing the card in the controller, and loading up 3300 software? Its seems that if its any more than that, I would be money ahead to part out this controller, and build my own?

Jim I certainly appreciate the offer of the software. I have to warn you I will be less than useless as a beta tester though haha. The long paragraph about running a windows computer to drip and all that is way over my head(I even stood on my chair, no luck).

I wish I had a wiring diagram to look at, or my mill unwrapped and in the shop. I'm sure more of this would make sense. I need to check out all the motors and such any way.

I see why your controller disappeared at $250 on ebay. I saw just a front panel no screen for $450!! cards are 300-800 each. Crazyness.

If you fellas wind up in the Nashville Tennessee area I owe you a beer.

 

[JimDawson]

I see why your controller disappeared at $250 on ebay. I saw just a front panel no screen for $450!! cards are 300-800 each. Crazyness.

I just wanted it out of my shop, it was useless to me. It was either ebay or the trash.

I don't know why people are trying to repair these old systems. It's too easy to upgrade using modern equipment. Actually there haven't really been a lot of changes in computers in the last five years or so, just a few of the peripherals have gotten faster. It use to be that by the time you carried your new computer out of the store it was obsolete, not so much any more.

It will be fun to see your mill set up and running. Can't wait 'till into the shop.
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[95ttoplt1]

Jim,

Just for giggles. I found a computer locally windows based for $40. key board monitor and all. What would I need assuming all the components outside the control are good? I see all these cards online, but I don't understand how it all works. Do I just buy one of those cards, and wire it in to the inside of the computer? Then run the wires from there out to the machine?

This is the cart running over the horse at this point, but I'm curious.

 

[JimDawson]

Well, kinda. I just took a desktop computer, cut the case in half and stuffed the back half into the control cabinet. That way all of the wiring is inside the cabinet. You could do a neater job, but I was in a hurry. Go here and scroll about 2/3 of the way down http://www.dawsoncontrols.com/millupgrade.html
The green terminal block is the main connection between the card and the world, connects with a 100 pin cable.

Galil has two different different styles of devices. One is the PCI bus card that goes in a standard desktop computer, the other is a metal cased stand alone unit that connects to the computer via Ethernet, serial or USB. Both do the same job, and have about the same specs. All are available in 1 to 8 axes. I am running a DMC-1846 4 axis PCI card in both my mill and router. In the case of the router, I did just what you described and the computer sits loose on top of the control cabinet and the cable runs into the cabinet.

If I were going to build a new system, I would use one of the new mini computers, about the size of a brick. In fact I am putting together two of those systems right now for a customer project. Using a Galil DMC-30017 1 axis motion controller with on-board stepper drive. It's a little bigger than a pack of cigarettes.
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[derf]

This might give you an idea why they want $400.00 for a manual.......

This thing is 3-1/2" thick and weighs 10 lbs. It does have wiring schematics, but the prints are 11" x 17", and I don't have a copier that big.

 

[95ttoplt1]

well I made a little progress. I hired a wrecker which made the job of getting it from the trailer simple, but nerve racking. The wrecker that came had a stick with a ceramic clutch. Needless to say, there was never a smooth moment. We had to pick it off the trailer, then back down a small but steep hill at a 45 to the shop door. With three of us, it took about 40 heart pounding minutes. But here she is!



As you can see there is two large boxes attached to the mill. While this may be practical in a facility, it just looks clunky and super un-sexy. Really messes up the feng-shui of the shop. So after we got it sat down here, I unbolted the rear box and hung it on the wall. As you can see I'm in the middle of finishing the inside of my shop. Which makes this more of a challenge at the moment.

So the rest of the pictures are the insides of the boxes.

This is what I call the power supply box. I don't really understand everything in here. But I think the power comes in at the top right with the disconnect/fuse. The small black boxes to the left of it are relays to turn the motor on and off. The very top left corner is a hobbs meter. I'm not sure about the three small fuses(possibly just for the motor) Then the big box at the bottom is a transformer. I think this transforms to 110v for the outlet on the bottom right that I assume powers the CNC control. Just above the large transformer on the right side is the plug for the spindle motor. It is hardwired, no switch on the motor!

I don't know how to really proceed from here. If I wire in my VFD before this box, wouldn't varying the Hz play havoc with the relays and transformers in this box?




This box is mounted on the right side of the machine and seems to contain all the CNC equipment.

Jim I think from looking at your pictures that the bootom left component in here is the power supply(has two D battery sized caps) The large Blue cap looks like a suspicious add on? Two gold boxes side by side at the bottotm look like the motor relays?



I have many more pictures just ask!

Also is there an easy way to adjust the brake? I wanted to remove the tool in the spindle and it seems the brake isn't holding.

 

[JimDawson]

I don't know how to really proceed from here. If I wire in my VFD before this box, wouldn't varying the Hz play havoc with the relays and transformers in this box?

Yes it would. You would replace the reversing contactor (big relays, top center), with the VFD. Leaving the rest of the major components intact. I need to study this a bit more. The small fuses and the relay to the left of them are unknown function at this time. I copied the pictures and will post annotated copies later.

Also is there an easy way to adjust the brake? I wanted to remove the tool in the spindle and it seems the brake isn't holding.

Not really, normally the only fix is to replace the brake shoes. Put it in back gear, this will normally provide enough resistance to loosen the drawbar.

Looks like you need the straighten out the X axis motor mount. I thought that looked bent in earlier pictures.

 

[95ttoplt1]

Yes it would. You would replace the reversing contactor (big relays, top center), with the VFD. Leaving the rest of the major components intact. I need to study this a bit more. The small fuses and the relay to the left of them are unknown function at this time. I copied the pictures and will post annotated copies later.



Not really, normally the only fix is to replace the brake shoes. Put it in back gear, this will normally provide enough resistance to loosen the drawbar.

Looks like you need the straighten out the X axis motor mount. I thought that looked bent in earlier pictures.

I think I figured out the brakes(operator error).

The X bracket is slightly bent. The fella I bought it front had his dad helping him move shops and he was a bit a Tim Taylor. He banged that into the wall and bent it, then dropped the chain on the fan of the motor and broke it. So a couple little things to fix up.

So I would run single phase power into this box, through the cutout/fuses and to the input of the VFD. Then I should be able to use the same push button switches to activate the VFD for motor on and off. But what about reverse? I think I'd ditch that transformer and just run a separate 110v plug for the control. The only issue I can see with this would be emergency stop. Does that need to kill power to the control as well?