2021 POTD Thread Archive

Got the limb(recurve) form issue resolved this morning. Just needed to walk away from it yesterday. Looked at it in a much better mood today. Glued up one limb and mowed grass. Goofed around,then took limb/form out of the hotbox. Turned out nice. Pics never do justice on woods. This is Bacote,and would say the figure is maybe a "7" on a 10 scale. Still pretty. Gorgeous weather today.

Hope to get the other in this evening.

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Got the limb(recurve) form issue resolved this morning. Just needed to walk away from it yesterday. Looked at it in a much better mood today. Glued up one limb and mowed grass. Goofed around,then took limb/form out of the hotbox. Turned out nice. Pics never do justice on woods. This is Bacote,and would say the figure is maybe a "7" on a 10 scale. Still pretty. Gorgeous weather today.

Hope to get the other in this evening.

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Are you making the entire bow from scratch? How did you get to the point of don't that? What was your learning media for that?

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Finished and tested. I'm glad that a friend gave me a tiny carbide boring bar a while back. I had to put the die back in the lathe 3 times to creep up on the final dimension. I did that by mounting it a press and sizing 3 bullets each time to check the sizing. The bullets average .3548 dia.
Here is my counterfeit die on the right, and the Lee die on the left.
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Yup,make them from the ground up. Lots of books on the subject. I've been in the professional wood biz since diapers.

Not busting on bowyers but,the equipment normally seen in typical shops pales in comparison to ours,or any dead serious mill/cabinet/furniture facility.

The "core woods" are the pieces of thin,ultra precision ground laminations that get glued up with certain epoxies. Smooth-On, EA40 is what most have settled on. We used to buy it by the gallons. Now,I just buy it in small containers as the shelf life is a concern. Then fiberglass lams get glued over the core woods. This whole "assemblage" gets put in a form,or press,and put in a hotbox oven to cure.

I've been shooting trad bows for 50+ years. When the boys(4 sons) were little, 30 years ago,there weren't any..... oh how do you say? Cool kids equipment. So I started making copies of famous,established bows from the industry in little kids sizes. We traveled to most of the big shoots,camping and raising heck,haha. They grew up shooting bows,gutting deer and smelling sawdust and cutting fluids from the shop.

All are grown,2 with PhD's and the other two are even more established. Very good boys. Wife and I are beyond fortunate,being blessed with them. Got a bunch of Gbabies and they're following in the same footsteps,shooting bows. I make a cpl bows a year now. Just figured y'all would like to see some pics of the process. It's a "thinking man's game" when it comes to tooling. Lots of ways to approach it,some are rather ingenious... others,not so much.



Are you making the entire bow from scratch? How did you get to the point of don't that? What was your learning media for that?

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Shooty,here's a pic of one of the first "little goober"(LG), nose profilers I made. Subsequent iterations are made smaller and have hex drive shafts pressed in to be run in drill motors.

I don't size my rifle bullets in push through sizers... long boring story. But in anycase,part of the process for pushing the velocity up to 3K is nose forming. There's a cpl ways to do it,some get bumped,some swaged (as you already know).... others get "spun". That's what the Little Goober does,it's a nose refinement tool.

Don't pay too much attention to the load data. This isn't anything current. Nowadays am running a case dang near full of IMR4831 in 22-250.

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Last few weeks i've been very busy with my day job. But today i had to do some emergency repairs on the white elephant. That car had a repaired radiator that the body shop did 3 years ago. And after so many heat cycles, it failed. Is being driven every day and my brother has been adding water. The weather is hitting 40 degrees celsius and is not keeping up. So 5 min looking thru my spare parts i found me a identical radiator from a VW golf i striped for parts. Replacing it, it was hard task, the bumper, both headlights, fans had to come out and i barely had space to sneak it out. This vehicle is a rebody Mk4 golf because of that some repairs are much harder.
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Any chance of getting someone interested in joining the sliding bar clamp build? We have a part without a person ;-)

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I spent a few hours last week disassembling, cleaning, fixing my backlash issue on the Y-axis, and reassembling my PM25 mill. There was a bit of swarf in the area of the Y-axis ball screw. So, I decided it was time to add a way cover in the front of the table as there is one on the rear. I ordered some rubber from McMaster-Carr and added a small aluminum plate to hold it to the saddle where the locking levers are. I didn't have any punches to make the holes in the rubber, so I made one on my lathe. It worked perfectly.

This should prevent future issues with crap and debris getting into the nether regions of my mill!

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