2021 POTD Thread Archive

[wachuko]

yep, I have done that same thing to put radius on parts. yea, never climb on hand hold, and if your table has a lot of backlash, tighten your gibs if you climb cut to tighten things up a little (not talking about a radius just in general).

Did you really need to ream his brackets. Save your reamers for important work, unimportant stuff just drill.

I did have to tighten all of the locks on the mill... Sucker started shaking and making funny noises under load. That is when I realized everything was loose... I need to remind myself to lock everything for more rigidity...

On a side note, I really want a bigger mill... not enough travel on this one and I am not talking large pieces... very limited... Once I have the larger lathe, I will be looking for another milling machine...

I did not needed to ream the brackets... But I was so looking forward to using a reamer. I had to try it. Now that I have, yeah, will follow your recommendation and leave the use of those for important work.

You have to understand... I feel like a child with new toys... got to try them all!

 

[jwmelvin]

You have to understand... I feel like a child with new toys... got to try them all!

I understand completely. That said, using a reamer where it’s needed (e.g., to fit a dowel pin, sliding or press) is even more rewarding.

 

[wachuko]

I understand completely. That said, using a reamer where it’s needed (e.g., to fit a dowel pin, sliding or press) is even more rewarding.

I am reading all of your guys/gals comments and learning. Message received loud and clear. And yes, the fitment of that dowel pin on that chunk of aluminum was perfect.

Itch scratched...

I think I am ready to make one of the grinding tool rest (from Harold Hall) now... I will start with the simpler design first...

 

[woodchucker]

I did have to tighten all of the locks on the mill... Sucker started shaking and making funny noises under load. That is when I realized everything was loose... I need to remind myself to lock everything for more rigidity...

On a side note, I really want a bigger mill... not enough travel on this one and I am not talking large pieces... very limited... Once I have the larger lathe, I will be looking for another milling machine...

I did not needed to ream the brackets... But I was so looking forward to using a reamer. I had to try it. Now that I have, yeah, will follow your recommendation and leave the use of those for important work.

You have to understand... I feel like a child with new toys... got to try them all!

I hear ya. I am the same way.. just trying to guide you in things. It sucks when you break or dull a tool on something that didn't need it. When I was trying to put a flat top on my rail road rail for an anvil, I was going through end mills like crazy, that rail was work hardened and it was hard to cut. But Ken (4GSR) told me about using radiused end mills. It helped a lot and now I use them for work that does not need a corner. When I need a corner I use a square endmill. I still wound up side cutting the rail, it was the most efficient, but when I needed to join the center, I had to go back to the end of the cutter.

There are many things we learn not on our own.. Like a real machinist, you need others to learn off of, because there are some things that are hard to figure out, and their experience is gold.

 

[wachuko]

I have a few leather projects pending and some I need to redo... The ones I need to redo is because I did those manually... using a 4prong punch... although it worked (shifter booth), the stitch is not straight and it looks bad... So I have been meaning to redo that... also want to make new pull handles for the same car, and a leather pouch for my motorcycle... Rather than spending over a $1K for a leather sewing machine, decided to give this one a try... it is a Chinese manual leather machine used for repairing shoes... Great following in Facebook and a few forums.

Because I am also a newbie working leather, I need both hands to try to make a straight stitching line... So I decided to motorize the machine. Many ways of doing this... with folks making a new shaft (longer) to install a pulley in the back; or using 3D printed gears on the flywheel, or running the motor directly to the flywheel with a rubber wheel, etc. I decided to machine the flywheel, make a groove in it... then use one of those urethane belts that you make to size and melt together, to drive it.







A fellow owner of one shared plans for the stand. I had some left over panels that I used for that. Same for the motor stand... Also made a thread holder with some delrin and a rod... Everything was easier than I thought (which I am so glad it was! )




Initially I was going to use this Singer stand I had, but the wife decided she wanted it more (we got a teak table to place on it)... so that one is now painted and being used as a table elsewhere in the house...



Mount plate for motor...



Photo before I machined the flywheel/crankwheel...



Video of first test... using a shoelace... and not even a leather one at that. Just a shoelace I had in a drawer... so you will see some slipping that will go away with the proper belt. I limited the motor rpms to a max of 800 and min of 100... once everything is in place I will play finding the correct rpm range for regular use.




Do let me know if the video works... if not, I will switch from unlisted to public.

For less than 250.00 I have a working leather sewing machine that can go through thick leather with ease...

So now I am just waiting for the belt to arrive to make it to proper size and install it. Also need to make a base/stand for the pedal...

 

[Steve-F]

That is awesome! Love it Tell about the bike in the background please..interesting:<)

 

[wachuko]

That is awesome! Love it Tell about the bike in the background please..interesting:<)

Another pending project...

Aluminum frame... aluminum gas tank... copper gas cap...



For the frame and tank, I tried matching the colors to those of the USA Marines Corps (in honor of my Dad)... but the folks that did the powder coating could not come close to the correct colors...





I have an old bicycle gas lamp that will go in the front... To power the bicycle, I will be installing one of those 50cc gasoline engines...



First, I practiced with my father-in-law's bicycle... the engine I will install on the other one is the same, but all black...



Then, after successfully getting that one to run great, I decided to start that one yo see on the wall...

 

[woodchucker]

those springer front ends look older?
Nice old light.

 

[Steve-F]

Really,Really Nice!!!

 

[Winegrower]

Beautiful work! At first glance, the pictures made it look like it was bicycle powered.