- Joined
- May 13, 2019
- Messages
- 1,016
@devils4ever
I don't think I've ever seen a tailstock tapper using slotted adapters to drive conventional tap wrenches.
I think those slotted adaptors are a very good idea.
Congratulations on your build.
Thanks.
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2021 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter Gaffer
- Start date
Thanks.
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2014
- Messages
- 418
Finishing touches... I went old school. 
It matches the one I made for my 4 Jaw - that's stood up well to shop grime and abuse, so the one on the 6 jaw should too.
My 3 jaw I purchased brand new, and they're laser etched now. Not as nice IMHO.
Family portrait time!
If anyone is interested, the art work was done in Pixelmator Pro, then printed onto Avery silver asset tag label material on a colour laser printer. The actual label was cut out on a new toy I got last month - A cricut maker 3 (the print and cut process is cool when you see it in action. It knows where everything is by a heavy border around the images so the cuts are precisely placed no mater if you get the material your cutting crooked)
It matches the one I made for my 4 Jaw - that's stood up well to shop grime and abuse, so the one on the 6 jaw should too.
My 3 jaw I purchased brand new, and they're laser etched now. Not as nice IMHO.
Family portrait time!
If anyone is interested, the art work was done in Pixelmator Pro, then printed onto Avery silver asset tag label material on a colour laser printer. The actual label was cut out on a new toy I got last month - A cricut maker 3 (the print and cut process is cool when you see it in action. It knows where everything is by a heavy border around the images so the cuts are precisely placed no mater if you get the material your cutting crooked)
Bought an old Excello right angle head. Not knowing what I was getting into, I talked the owner down a pretty good bit thinking the bearings and seals were likely shot. The unit was clean, well used, and had been drained of fluid. So clean, it might have spent time in a parts washer. The bearings and seals were in bad shape though.
Sourced all new seals and bearings, cleaned it up, fabricated a key for the R8 collets. I know, everyone leaves out the key, but in this case, the key threaded into the spindle. Leaving it out left a passage for oil to run out. Would have run out not only static, but during use. I opted for a double sealed bearing on the input shaft as opposed to the shielded bearing that came out of it. My thinking was that between the bearing being sealed, and the new seals on either end, I might get lucky and keep all the oil inside. If not, I'll have the first right angle head that also lubes cutters, parts, machine, operator and storage shelf all at the same time. You know what they say, "if you can't fix it, feature it".
Just got it all back together.
Put it all back together.
Cant find any real documentation around on rebuilding these so I'm at a little bit of a loss regarding the preload needed on these angular contact bearings. For now, I have it set up so there is no end play but I'm sure it needs a little more.
Sourced all new seals and bearings, cleaned it up, fabricated a key for the R8 collets. I know, everyone leaves out the key, but in this case, the key threaded into the spindle. Leaving it out left a passage for oil to run out. Would have run out not only static, but during use. I opted for a double sealed bearing on the input shaft as opposed to the shielded bearing that came out of it. My thinking was that between the bearing being sealed, and the new seals on either end, I might get lucky and keep all the oil inside. If not, I'll have the first right angle head that also lubes cutters, parts, machine, operator and storage shelf all at the same time. You know what they say, "if you can't fix it, feature it".
Just got it all back together.
Put it all back together.
Cant find any real documentation around on rebuilding these so I'm at a little bit of a loss regarding the preload needed on these angular contact bearings. For now, I have it set up so there is no end play but I'm sure it needs a little more.
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 2,634
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2017
- Messages
- 2,455
Its tire changing season, i'm starting a bit early this year because i want the tires to have time to soften, with so many cars they don't get driven every day. The first on the list is the 607 i installed the same make and model as i removed. Had to take it to the tire shop and paid 10 euros to change and balance all 4 tires, tire services at the place i'm taking my cars is incredibly cheap for me, mainly because i don't stand around i unload and load my own tires but let them to take them off and on the car. One ting, one of the guys there showed me the tires i took off are the ones in the pictures, the dade is 2010 but he is saying they have be redatead and the stamp do looks suspicious. I've bought those tires second hand and how much i paid for them i got my money's worth. Has some one come across this, old tires with changed dates on them?
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2020
- Messages
- 159
I'm back from a brief forum hiatus! My phone camera died which I relied on for shop photos. I have a new phone with new cameras, so back to posting.
Tom Lipton showed off a really cool little vise-mount bender in his video on making a canned tuna dewatering press:
If that video starts at the beginning, then skip to 32:10.
That bender looked perfect for my tiny, tiny shop, so I sent Tom an email back in April asking for the plans. I just finished it a couple of days ago, and I figured I'd share it here:
I won't embed the remaining photos out of consideration for those with slow internet connections. See the attachments for the rest of them.
To use this, you just clamp it in your vise, set the fence in place, stick a 3/4" pipe on the rounded section of the swing arm, and yank on the pipe toflip over your crappy wooden bench bend your stock. The bends are pretty clean and I haven't given myself a hernia yet, so this bender has met all of my criteria for success. Plus, there are Features™. Want a wider bend radius? Change out the central 3/8" pin for something larger. I'm also envisioning bending dies I could plug into the 3/8" reamed holes to let me do all kinds of weird stuff and completely exceed the design limitations for this bender.
As an aside, it may seem like I'm getting excited over really simple things that any bender can do, and that's because I am. I've never owned, operated, or really even seen a proper bender before, because I've always been an asthmatic computer nerd that used to avoid any sort of manual labor at all costs. Thought I hated "workshop stuff," when what I really hated was woodworking with power tools. This tangent is getting too long, so I'm going to get back to the bender.
A not-so-quick note on materials and construction!
I used hot rolled 1018 angle iron for the table, and cold rolled 1018 for the fence. The "boss" that's welded to the table is also 1018, because I was worried about brazing or welding anything else.
The pivot arm is one solid piece of 4140PH, which is my favorite material to machine. It's also one of the main reasons I decided to work on this project, because there were some fun setups.
I used 932 bearing bronze for the big bushing. It's installed with a .0012 press fit with the pivot arm. I used a 1/2 ton arbor press with a 4 foot cheater bar, and I somehow didn't bend or break anything when doing that.
The 3/8" pin is O1 tool steel. I had planned on machining that oversized so I could harden it and then hard turn it down to final dimensions. I decided not to do that because A) I'm lazy, and B) I don't have CBN inserts and I don't feel like burning up $30 of carbide. I'm sure I'll manage to completely ruin that pin in time, and then I'll kick myself for not hardening it.
Two final notes on this and then I'll go away. I had initially planned on silver brazing the pivot boss to the table because I'm not really set up for welding. All of the reading I had done on silver brazing showed that the join could be just as strong or stronger than welding if you held proper clearances. Turns out, that's really hard to do! I was able to get a clearance of ~.002", but it wasn't super consistent. Another thing that's hard to do is to heat up a 7" piece of angle iron in the open air with MAPP gas. I didn't have enough fire bricks to provide proper insulation, so I spent an hour and a half outside during a cold snap, swearing at this piece of steel while waiting for my silver braze to wet out (which never happened).
In the end, I found a place that TIGged it up for $25 in about 3 minutes, which just shows me that I need to spend more money on tools.
Finally, a quick note on the plans. I don't have the rights to distribute the plans for this, but anyone interested should be able to email Tom and get them for free. I grabbed his email address from the bottom of his site, http://www.oxtoolco.com/
Tom Lipton showed off a really cool little vise-mount bender in his video on making a canned tuna dewatering press:
If that video starts at the beginning, then skip to 32:10.
That bender looked perfect for my tiny, tiny shop, so I sent Tom an email back in April asking for the plans. I just finished it a couple of days ago, and I figured I'd share it here:
I won't embed the remaining photos out of consideration for those with slow internet connections. See the attachments for the rest of them.
To use this, you just clamp it in your vise, set the fence in place, stick a 3/4" pipe on the rounded section of the swing arm, and yank on the pipe to
As an aside, it may seem like I'm getting excited over really simple things that any bender can do, and that's because I am. I've never owned, operated, or really even seen a proper bender before, because I've always been an asthmatic computer nerd that used to avoid any sort of manual labor at all costs. Thought I hated "workshop stuff," when what I really hated was woodworking with power tools. This tangent is getting too long, so I'm going to get back to the bender.
A not-so-quick note on materials and construction!
I used hot rolled 1018 angle iron for the table, and cold rolled 1018 for the fence. The "boss" that's welded to the table is also 1018, because I was worried about brazing or welding anything else.
The pivot arm is one solid piece of 4140PH, which is my favorite material to machine. It's also one of the main reasons I decided to work on this project, because there were some fun setups.
I used 932 bearing bronze for the big bushing. It's installed with a .0012 press fit with the pivot arm. I used a 1/2 ton arbor press with a 4 foot cheater bar, and I somehow didn't bend or break anything when doing that.
The 3/8" pin is O1 tool steel. I had planned on machining that oversized so I could harden it and then hard turn it down to final dimensions. I decided not to do that because A) I'm lazy, and B) I don't have CBN inserts and I don't feel like burning up $30 of carbide. I'm sure I'll manage to completely ruin that pin in time, and then I'll kick myself for not hardening it.
Two final notes on this and then I'll go away. I had initially planned on silver brazing the pivot boss to the table because I'm not really set up for welding. All of the reading I had done on silver brazing showed that the join could be just as strong or stronger than welding if you held proper clearances. Turns out, that's really hard to do! I was able to get a clearance of ~.002", but it wasn't super consistent. Another thing that's hard to do is to heat up a 7" piece of angle iron in the open air with MAPP gas. I didn't have enough fire bricks to provide proper insulation, so I spent an hour and a half outside during a cold snap, swearing at this piece of steel while waiting for my silver braze to wet out (which never happened).
In the end, I found a place that TIGged it up for $25 in about 3 minutes, which just shows me that I need to spend more money on tools.
Finally, a quick note on the plans. I don't have the rights to distribute the plans for this, but anyone interested should be able to email Tom and get them for free. I grabbed his email address from the bottom of his site, http://www.oxtoolco.com/
Attachments
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 3,597
@Badabinski
Nice job on the bender.
Instead of making your own 3/8" diameter pins, use alloy steel dowel pins. They are hardened and available at ant industrial distributer (or decent hardware store). Try it. You'll like it.
Nice job on the bender.
Instead of making your own 3/8" diameter pins, use alloy steel dowel pins. They are hardened and available at ant industrial distributer (or decent hardware store). Try it. You'll like it.
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2020
- Messages
- 159
Ah, I did use commercial pins for the two 3/8" reamed holes. The pin in the middle actually goes into a 3/4" bored hole, so I had to make something myself. Do they make (for lack of a better term) stepped dowel pins? Like, something that'd be 3/4" on one side and 3/8" on the other? Because that would make my life a heck of a lot easier!
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 3,597
No "standard" stepped dowel pins that I know of. However, 3/4" OD leaves plenty of meat to press a 3/8" dowel pin in, if I understand problem correctly.
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2017
- Messages
- 2,455
Today i wanted to continue with working on the little niva or changing the tires to winter tires on cars, but no white elephant No:2 now decided to have an issue. Its starter motor stopped working, ask my brother has he been cranking it for long periods, he is saying no with the new engine it fires right up, i did call it white elephant, my brother has never heard it before so he ask my why elephant, usually mercedes E class is called elephant. I told him it's because there is always one sitting in the garage needing repairs and it's always in the way of me working on my own projects. I had to replace the brushes on the starter, did lots of cleaning, installed it and is working like new.
